Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i have noticed a few cars on here and in other forums running stock motors (internals) but have bolt on mods - and ppl are running NOS -

for example if your running 300kw rb25det plus a shot of NOS how much more damage/ AND RISK IS THIS?

i see these guys are consistantly running drags, with simlar set ups.

is this worth the money / risk.

my car will see a drag stripp once or twice a year - and hopefully powercruise so it will not be getting thumpped that often-

just after opinions and experience

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/421852-nos-on-stock-motor/
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

i have noticed a few cars on here and in other forums running stock motors (internals) but have bolt on mods - and ppl are running NOS -

for example if your running 300kw rb25det plus a shot of NOS how much more damage/ AND RISK IS THIS?

Nitrous is a way of boosting horsepower and torque.

No inherant 'risk' that is different to other forms of tuning . The fnf franchise is not an education on this topic.

Things to consider;

The horsepower and Torque limits of the engine and drivetrain. A simplistic way to understand this. If you have 200kw and the internals limit somwhere is 300kw thenyou have 100kw to play with. Nitrous and or turbo bolt ons etc. leave you 100kw to play with.

The fuel system needs to be able to deliver the fuel.

The engine timing needs to be adjusted / mapped with a reduction in advance.

Copper plugs with appropriate gaps and heat range.

i see these guys are consistantly running drags, with simlar set ups.

is this worth the money / risk.

It's the cheapest way to add significant horsepower to a stocker for 1/4mile use. I would suggest that 10 seconds isn't out of the question with the car setup and motor and turbo stock.

The risk is the same for breakage for a similar powered turbo upgrade, however in a basic control (no two stage) big shot there is going to be bulk torque over a turbo size for the same power and that torque will put more hurt on the drive train and the rods in the motor.

my car will see a drag stripp once or twice a year - and hopefully powercruise so it will not be getting thumpped that often-

It's cheap to do and you get good value for events like that. I'd reccomend it for sure.

just after opinions and experience

Appart from using some bigger single kits on V8's. I have experience putting a kit on a standard turbo and motor R33 gtst. 2rismo bought the bits off me then upgraded it further (he ran 11's on a stock turbo'd motor with a small shot).

My view is that you could setup a bigger hit and get a stock motor & turbo gtst into 10's with the right strategy. No special fuel.

It's pretty easy and you won't regret it. Just ensure you do it in a way that is legal (have the kit easy to remove and install) and do it properly with a plan in mind , considering the limits and supporting modifications you would do for any power upgrade.

  • 1 month later...
  • 1 year later...
  • 4 months later...
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Lamb roast on Saturday will be different 🥲
    • They are under bucket shims. Tomei provides a test shim kit and then any measurement of shim required. 
    • I always wondered how you were supposed to buy a set of 24 buckets and somehow magically have every single one of them yield exactly the desired clearance. I would have thought you'd need to assemble a cam with either 12 "sample" or "example" buckets of known top thickness (or a single such sample/example 12 times over!!) measure clearances at every valve, and then do the usual math to work out what the actual "shimness" of each bucket needed to be, before buying the required buckets to make up he thicknesses that you didn't have on hand.
    • I now seem to be limited in power due to my rev limit/hydraulic lifters in my built RB25. I'm looking into converting over to Tomei solid lifters. Question for anyone that has done the conversion. I was always under the impression that when using the Tomei solid lifter conversion, you would also require new valves (Longer or shorter stems, I can't remember which).  I don't know where I got this idea, as so far I see no mention of this in any of the Tomei documentation. It just states I need the Tomei solid buckets, solid lifter cams and upgraded springs. As my head is already built, all I would need is another set of 1000$ Kelford cams, 500$ buckets and about 4H hours of my time installing and I'm off to the races!?!? There's no way it's that simple, I must be missing something? 
    • I couldn't agree more. I should have started from the get-go with a NEO or solid bucket conversion. I started looking into converting over to solid lifters yesterday. Now for some reason I was always under the impression that when using the Tomei solid lifter conversion, you would also require new valves (Longer or shorter stems, I can't remember which).  But I see no mention of this on any of the Tomei documentation. It just states that I need the Tomei solid buckets, solid lifter cams and upgraded springs. As my head is already built, all I would need is another set of 1000$ Kelford cams, 500$ buckets and about 4H hours of my time installing and I'm off to the races!?!? There's no way it's that simple, I must be missing something? 
×
×
  • Create New...