Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So ghey. Needs more 1JZ foo!

See you Sundy big guy. :wub:

How about an sr20 cortina ;)

But yes definitely keen for Sunday, I should fix this exhaust leak but don't want up fark anything up before then.

i fitted my front camber arms yesterday and wound a bit of neg into it (moreso for looks lol)

n3pgHHJ.jpg

Also had it out for qr happy laps today, and it went well for being what is essentially a stock motor. My battery clamp broke so I couldn't corner to hard also cooked my pissy Natro brakes and my rears tires are now catus :thumbsup:

KjdX8Qh.jpg

*note shit house front fitment as my 30mm bolt ons rub to much, so I took them off and will purchase a set of 20mm

The car looked like it went well man! Whats next on the menu?

Yer I was really happy with it, went really well for a stock motor. Next on menu in no particular order:

New tires

New brake pads

New front wheel studs and spacers

TO FIX THIS BLOODY GEARBOX!

Yer I was really happy with it, went really well for a stock motor. Next on menu in no particular order:

New tires

New brake pads

New front wheel studs and spacers

TO FIX THIS BLOODY GEARBOX!

stoopid question.... your gbox prob and tacho probs.... they couldnt be related could they? speed sensor issues etc?

just a thought honky!

His speed and tacho probs are just that the signal going to the gauges is wrong.

The correct signal is getting to the ECU which is doing shifts. The ECU has identified a fault with Soln A in the box, and hence locked it out.

His speed and tacho probs are just that the signal going to the gauges is wrong.

The correct signal is getting to the ECU which is doing shifts. The ECU has identified a fault with Soln A in the box, and hence locked it out.

didnt know it was confirmed as solenoidssss. thought he had checked em.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Well, this, but braided line to the sender that is mounted on the chassis. Oil Pressure doesn't need to be close, while I prefer Oil Temp is in the active oil flow (bro science, not sure how much it matters).  That's how I've had mine set up for years and it works OK
    • Welcome back! There is a v series forum, a little quiet at times but every new active member helps
    • But, per MBS206's question, what happens when it doesn't start. When you turn the key to IGN, do the dash lights come on (then go off after a couple of seconds) - likely alarm or other electrical issue When you turn the key to STRT do you head a clear click (the starter solenoid trying) without the engine turning (likely starter motor)
    • I had 3 counts over the last couple of weeks once where i got stranded at a jdm paint yard booking in some work. 2nd time was moving the car into the drive way for the inspection and the 3rd was during the inspection for the co2 leak test. Fix: 1st, car off for a hour and half disconnected battery 10mins 4th try car started 2nd, 5th try started 3rd, countless time starting disconnected battery dude was under the hood listening to the starting sequence fuel pump ect.   
    • This. As for your options - I suggest remote mounting the Nissan sensor further away on a length of steel tube. That tube to have a loop in it to handle vibration, etc etc. You will need to either put a tee and a bleed fitting near the sensor, or crack the fitting at the sensor to bleed it full of oil when you first set it up, otherwise you won't get the line filled. But this is a small problem. Just needs enough access to get it done.
×
×
  • Create New...