Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Whole team is done with 8's, so funny watching their expression, pure relief. Actually Max, Dan and Zoran do them Saturday, they have 180kg x 8 for 3 sets, no wraps

Jack did 195 x 8 x 3, Emad 170 x 8 x 3 and Spiros 160 x 8 x 3, last night.

Everyone starts wrapping from the first week of 5's next week. I know Max, Dan and Zoran have got 205 x 5 x 3 sets next week, then 220 x 5 x 3 sets the following week. They are on the 275kg squat plan.

Whats your first week of 5's Nick? Youre on the 220kg plan arent you? Must be 165 x 5 next week?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/422559-squattin/page/3/#findComment-6818813
Share on other sites

I don't find the initial 3 sets so bad... it's the pause squats and high rep safety bar squats afterwards that kill me... just not used to that amount of volume... it hurts my vagina

180 x 8... fck that!

Zoran and Max look so comfortable squatting... all my reps are ugly grinds lol

yeah on the 220kg plan... but I want 230kg at nationals...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/422559-squattin/page/3/#findComment-6818855
Share on other sites

I wasn't saying he IS evil... I was referring to his ownership of evilness...

you're not buying that are you?... oh well, at least I spelt it correctly this time hehehe

back on topic... why have you retired!? your partly to blame for getting me into this shit in the first place, now your quitting!

at least come watch Dan Green and eat pizza

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/422559-squattin/page/3/#findComment-6819597
Share on other sites

60kg x 10

70kg x 10

80kg x 10

90kg x 6

95kg x 3

Might add a 6th/1RM set to this so I can start using it to leverage my sets of reps and up their weight. 100 should be fairly doable for a start.

60kg x 10

70kg x 10

80kg x 10

90kg x 5

100kg x 2

The 100 was supposed to be a 1RM, but it felt easy on the way up, so I did another :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/422559-squattin/page/3/#findComment-6821809
Share on other sites

80kg x 10 means a fair bit more than 100kg for 1rm

Yeah but by the time I get to the 100, it doesn't lol

Prolly could have done 105 or 110 for the 1RM at the end. Though it's almost time to space out the working sets. Maybe shift the 70 to 75 and 80 to 90; 90 to 95 and 1RM to 105.

As long as the weight goes up everywhere :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/422559-squattin/page/3/#findComment-6822062
Share on other sites

if you are actually going to try and go for a single, then go

bar x 10

60 x 5

80 x 3

100 x 1

then either 105 or 110 depending on how you felt.

then keep going up by 5 or 10 depending on how you felt etc etc.

obviously do it in a rack with safety bars or spotters.

Whatever you fail on you'd be able to do the next week with less singles before it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/422559-squattin/page/3/#findComment-6822228
Share on other sites

60kg x 10

70kg x 10

80kg x 10

90kg x 5

100kg x 2

The 100 was supposed to be a 1RM, but it felt easy on the way up, so I did another :D

60kg x 10

75kg x 10

90kg x 8

100kg x 3

105kg x 1 (died on second rep; thank you safety bars)

I think the leg press is helping a fair bit with squat strength, along with progressively stepping up the weight on squats. I'm tryIng my best not to lose form as I step up the weight...it is still very ATG...however...I do "good morning" the weight up when I am struggling in the hole sometimes. Is this a bad thing? Indicative that I should be further back on my heels?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/422559-squattin/page/3/#findComment-6825705
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...