Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all, first post.

i just recently bought an R33 GTS-T (going to Vic Roads tomorrow), its a white R33 with 180,000k on the clock with 3 inch full exhaust with 5 inch muffler, front mount inter cooler pod filter, which is not roadworthy in its current state. Its got a heavy duty clutch, clutch just changed three weeks ago and car got serviced for $1,800 (showed receipts).

bought the car for $3,700.

The bad points, needs paint fixing, some parts have been chipped off (the paint), front bumper needs new paint job etc. exterior not crashed or anything though.

did i get a good deal?

heres some pictures of it. By the way does anyone know what rims those are. Oh and the car has no mechanical issues from what i know and he said its 180KWRW, which im not too sure about (no dyno papers, but felt faster than stock r33gtst)

post-110073-0-20085700-1365338503_thumb.jpg

post-110073-0-28312300-1365338509_thumb.jpg

post-110073-0-97140400-1365338513_thumb.jpg

Edited by adamss
  • Like 1

Looks like Mr Uleh had a hand in the styling :sick:

You bought the car for $3700+the cost getting it roadworthy, then rego, then fixing up all the imperfections. So id say you go what you paid for.

Fun manual turbo import for under 4k, really cant go wrong imo.

if its a car you plan on flipping for a profit later on, wont happen sadly, not sure what car sales are like where you are, but hardly anything sells where i am. its all swaps.

Seen 2or 3 R33's sell for under 4500 here with your average mods, exhaust, FMIC, pod, hecktic skidders on rear.

its one of those "you get what you pay for" things.

Fun manual turbo import for under 4k, really cant go wrong imo.

if its a car you plan on flipping for a profit later on, wont happen sadly, not sure what car sales are like where you are, but hardly anything sells where i am. its all swaps.

Seen 2or 3 R33's sell for under 4500 here with your average mods, exhaust, FMIC, pod, hecktic skidders on rear.

its one of those "you get what you pay for" things.

+1 on Dan, 3.7K for a rw manual turbo haha

Plus a few after market parts(lip, wheels etc)

Fingers crossed for no chassis damage :)

+1 on Dan, 3.7K for a rw manual turbo haha

Plus a few after market parts(lip, wheels etc)

Fingers crossed for no chassis damage :)

I took a risk with this one even if the money isn't much, still young took a while to save this up. Got the car checked, cars in pretty dam good condition other some exterior paint chipped off. Engines smooth, no leaks, no crash damage, and still got some oomph even after 19 years.

need some basic stuff for road worthy though, spare tire one cap missing on one of the rims and the pod filter is just hanging down. What can I do about the pod filter? Mechanic said needs something to hold up like the box of the original filter.

Um - a centre cap missing = wont pass rego?
WHUT?
So glad I don't live in QLD.


Just get a factory pod box, OR, put some high density marine foam under it and make a metal splash shield to cover it from any hot oil spray, etc.
Get ANY 114.3 (Nissan, ford toyota) steel rim with a closely sized tyre, say, 205/65/15 as a spare. Any wrecker should have an ok cheap one with air... lol.

dugong foreskin leather lol

If it's chassis not rooted and engine has good compression, have you compression tested it? Then probably a good buy,

But when things get cheap I ask myself why is someone willing to sell for this price. because no one gives shit away

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep super expensive, awesome. It would be a cool passion project if I had the money.
    • Getting the setup right, is likely to cost multiples of the purchase price of the vehicle.
    • So it's a ginormous undertaking that will be a massive headache but will be sorta cool if pulled off right. And also expensive. I'm sure it'll be as expensive as buying the car itself. I don't think you could just do this build without upgrading other things to take the extra power. Probably lots of custom stuff as well. All this assuming the person has mechanical knowledge. I'm stupid enough to try it but smart enough to realize there's gonna be mistakes even with an experienced mechanic. I'm a young bloke on minimum wage that gets dopamine from air being moved around and got his knowledge from a Donut video on how engines work.]   Thanks for the response though super informative!
    • Yes, it is entirely possible to twincharge a Skyline. It is not....without problems though. There was a guy did it to an SOHC RB30 (and I think maybe it became or already was a 25/30) in a VL Commode. It was a monster. The idea is that you can run both compressors at relatively low pressure ratios, yet still end up with a quite large total pressure ratio because they multiply, not add, boost levels. So, if the blower is spun to give a 1.4:1 PR (ie, it would make ~40 kPa of boost on its own) and the turbo is set up to give a 1.4:1 PR also, then you don't get 40+40 = 80 kPa of boost, you get 1.4*1.4, which is pretty close to 100 kPa of boost. It's free real estate! This only gets better as the PRs increase. If both are set up to yield about 1.7 PR, which is only about 70 kPa or 10ish psi of boost each, you actually end up with about 1.9 bar of boost! So, inevitably it was a bit of a monster. The blower is set up as the 2nd compressor, closest to the motor, because it is a positive displacement unit, so to get the benefit of putting it in series with another compressor, it has to go second. If you put it first, it has to be bigger, because it will be breathing air at atmospheric pressure. The turbo's compressor ends up needing to be a lot larger than you'd expect, and optimised to be efficient at large mass flows and low PRs. The turbo's exhaust side needs to be quite relaxed, because it's not trying to provide the power to produce all the boost, and it has to handle ALL the exhaust flow. I think you need a much bigger wastegate than you might expect. Certainly bigger than for an engine just making the same power level turbo only. The blower effectively multiplies the base engine size. So if you put a 1.7 PR blower on a 2.5L Skyline, it's like turboing a 4.2L engine. Easy to make massive power. Plus, because the engine is blown, the blower makes boost before the turbo can even think about making boost, so it's like having that 4.2L engine all the way from idle. Fattens the torque delivery up massively. But, there are downsides. The first is trying to work out how to size the turbo according to the above. The second is that you pretty much have to give up on aircon. There's not enough space to mount everything you need. You might be able to go elec power steering pump, hidden away somewhere. but it would still be a struggle to get both the AC and the blower on the same side of the engine. Then, you have to ponder whether you want to truly intercool the thing. Ideally you would put a cooler between the turbo and the blower, so as to drop the heat out of it and gain even more benefit from the blower's positive displacement nature. But that would really need to be a water to air core, because you're never going to find enough room to run 2 sets of boost pipes out to air to air cores in the front of the car. But you still need to aftercool after the blower, because both these compressors will add a lot of heat, and you wil have the same temperature (more or less) as if you produced all that boost with a single stage, and no one in their right mind would try to run a petrol engine on high boost without a cooler (unless not using petrol, which we shall ignore for the moment). I'm of the opinnion that 2x water to air cores in the bay and 2x HXs out the front is probably the only sensible way to avoid wasting a lot of room trying to fit in long runs of boost pipe. But the struggle to locate everything in the limited space available would still be a pretty bad optimisation problem. If it was an OEM, they'd throw 20 engineers at it for a year and let them test out 30 ideas before deciding on the best layout. And they'd have the freedom to develop bespoke castings and the like, for manifolds, housings, connecting pipes to/from compressors and cores. A single person in a garage can either have one shot at it and live with the result, or spend 5 years trying to get it right.
    • Good to know, thank you!
×
×
  • Create New...