Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Noticed a big difference ?

big difference, but also noticeable shudder when shift. if you want smooth shift, then keep stock one. got AT check light on once for 0.5s when reduce speed and stop car for waiting red light

The main reason I'm fitting one is that I hope it will downshift quicker when trying to overtake because car is quite laggy so it would make it nicer to drive because stock auto just adds delay...

From what I've read it won't make a difference to downshifts, as that has to do with an ECU/TCU signal or something

From what I've read it won't make a difference to downshifts, as that has to do with an ECU/TCU signal or something

Yeah, that's what I read too, thought somehow the shift would be firmer still even though the downshift signal isn't instantaneous, just hoping :)

Edited by valf

It will be firmer, but it won't increase the response. Only your foot can do that, it's how you stab the pedal that makes all the difference I have found.

Should be interesting taking standalone control of some of the gearbox functions using the Link ecu, I suspect it may not require a shift kit once we set up the map properly. It's a fair bit of stuffing around but it will be well worth it, my gearbox is slipping and slurring into gear at the drags, hoping this should sort it out.

  • Like 1

as Scotty said, it will be firmer. for me, only problem is when in heavy traffic in "D" with low speed, then do brake - acc - brake - acc, you can feel some vibration/shudder when shift up/down.

AT check light only happened once but it disappear immediately after installed about 2-3 days, but now it is more smooth. i think TCU needs some time to adapt transgo kit?

  • 11 months later...
43 minutes ago, blade511 said:

Is this for RWD only ? Forgive my ignorance, but I'd be super keen to do the upgrade if it works on 4WD.. otherwise, what options are their ?

I believe there is an application for every VQ out there so yes it works on 4WD.

  • 4 years later...

Sorted;

What’s the difference between a SHIFT KIT® and a Reprogramming Kit?
DESIGNED FOR DURABILITY: SHIFT KIT® valve body repair kits
TransGo SHIFT KIT® valve body repair kits correct, prevent and reduce multiple transmission problems such as shift irregularities and durability issues. These kits are used by professional transmission and valve body technicians and are designed for normal everyday use and light duty towing.

ENGINEERED FOR PERFORMANCE: Reprogramming Kit™ valve body performance kits
TransGo Reprogramming Kit™ valve body performance kits are made for specific applications. If you have a hard working truck that tows or haul heavy loads, look under ‘Installation Icons’ tab for the tow/haul icon.  If you have a high performance vehicle, look for the performance icon. These performance valve body kits also include additional features such as;

Gear Command™:  Allows full control of downshifting and will hold any gear to any RPM. Retains automatic up shifts in the drive position. Certain units allow manual up shifts on driver command.
Manual Shift Control: This feature fully converts the valve body to manual/stick shift operation – no automatic shifts. Most Manual Shift Control kits also allow you the ability to easily convert back to automatic.
Tuneless: Patent-pending internal calibration technology “tuneless” allows install without the need for additional transmission tuning software or programmers.
In summary: If you are looking to retain shift comfort but want added durability, use a TransGo SHIFT KIT® valve body repair kit. For performance shifts without sacrificing durability use TransGo Reprogramming Kit™ valve body performance kits.

Haha wow, still confused about the kit. I ordered the cheaper one from Summit which has already arrived. Emailed TransGo while it was in transit and this was their response;

Quote

We only offer a reprogramming kit for the RE5-RO5A.  It will provide firm, crisp shift that are not harsh – I believe you will be happy with it.  Our product address shift feel, manual shifting will be the same as it is currently.

They only list one kit on their site for the RE5R05A | TransGo

Checking my box, it does say for Turbo/supercharged applications and the instructions list RE5RO5A so was confused about the zero and the oh

I guess this kit is fine and may just be old stock from Summit? (I got the last one)

n8qWXQD.jpg

  • Confused 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
×
×
  • Create New...