Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Old tech! Haha. The old Hitachi et al ECUs are still good bits of kit. If you don't need bells and whistles, then a Nistuned factory ECU is the absolute best control for a lightly tuned engine, and still more than capable of dealing with even heavy modification. The only real downside is needing to retain the AFM.

If you need a lot of bells and whistles, then it makes sense to look elsewhere.

And of course it is the best bang for buck for many people. A few hundred $ for a board put in and whatever it costs for the tune.

You ask "just wondering if anyone can give me some info about different tunes etc?" I don't really know what you mean by that. Do you mean different ECUs? The only "different tunes" you would have for any engine would be one with no safety margins and max power, a safer one with less timing and richer mixtures, and perhaps versions of those for different fuels. Anything else doesn't make much sense.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/423300-tunes/#findComment-6811882
Share on other sites

well some one was telling me that standard tune would be a nistune, then some say mild tune, then some say safe tune, i have no idea what they are on about. is there like different brand of tunes at different prices and stuff or am i looking at this the wrong way?

well i went to one tuner. he say yeh get a nistune, cheapsest atm and can things simple

go to a different tuner, and he says stay away from nistune because its out dated.. uses 300zx tech or something... man seriously didnt know wtf he was on about... i just nodded and smiled... so yeh... not sure how to approach getting car tuned etc.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/423300-tunes/#findComment-6811932
Share on other sites

well some one was telling me that standard tune would be a nistune, then some say mild tune, then some say safe tune, i have no idea what they are on about. is there like different brand of tunes at different prices and stuff or am i looking at this the wrong way?

well i went to one tuner. he say yeh get a nistune, cheapsest atm and can things simple

go to a different tuner, and he says stay away from nistune because its out dated.. uses 300zx tech or something... man seriously didnt know wtf he was on about... i just nodded and smiled... so yeh... not sure how to approach getting car tuned etc.

You need to get a few things straight in your head so it makes sense.

1) Nistune is not a "tune". Nistune is a daughterboard that gets installed in the factory ECU in place of the original EEPROM (or equivalent). The daughterboard provides the ability to emulate the original EEPROM to the ECU, whilst being programmable through the Consult port in the car. Win! You can change nearly everything in the ECU's tune (there are, obviously, some limits to what you can do).

2) No ECU is a "tune". An ECU is just that, a piece of hardware. The "tune" is the work done to set up the fuel, timing and other tables in the ECU so that it runs the engine the way you want it to run. Or, you could consider the "tune" to be the finished product of that work.

3) Nistune for an R34's Neo engine uses the R34 ECU. The only engine that you can't Nistune with it's own ECU is the R33 RB25DET because the ECUs in those things have a bad dose of the gheys. And even using a Z32 ECU to put Nistune onto an 33 is still better than leaving the R33 ECU in charge of the engine.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/423300-tunes/#findComment-6812031
Share on other sites

well some one was telling me that standard tune would be a nistune, then some say mild tune, then some say safe tune, i have no idea what they are on about. is there like different brand of tunes at different prices and stuff or am i looking at this the wrong way?

well i went to one tuner. he say yeh get a nistune, cheapsest atm and can things simple

go to a different tuner, and he says stay away from nistune because its out dated.. uses 300zx tech or something... man seriously didnt know wtf he was on about... i just nodded and smiled... so yeh... not sure how to approach getting car tuned etc.

Who's this someone? would like to know.

R33 use Z32 modified ECUs or even R32 ECUs with an external VTC controller

R34 use R34 ECUs

Essentially you can consider Nistune like a standalone ECU is a sense where it can be plugged into a laptop, maps tuned however the fuark you want them. So it can be aggressive, mild or safe however you like it done.

So the person who said that Nistune safe or mild or whatever the heck he said is wrong.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/423300-tunes/#findComment-6812258
Share on other sites

The best piece of advice i can give you is figure out what you want to use the car for daily? track duties? whatever.

then pick a power figure where you will be happy.

figure out your budget.

once you have established these three things compromise on what is going to best suit you as far as an ecu.

if you want to run any sort of additional functions Launch control anti lag E85 you will need an aftermarket ECU

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/423300-tunes/#findComment-6813014
Share on other sites

interesting thanks fellas i think i have a bit better understanding.

so let me get this, there is no specific tune names for tune, and the nistune is a daughterboard ecu for the stock, but the r34 ecu is remappable thus i don't need to buy a new ecu for the tune.

i was chasing around 400HP.

i googled nistune, didnt really tell me how much "make way more power than you will ever make, using nistune."

so whats more recommended or vouched for? a nistune chip or apexi power fc?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/423300-tunes/#findComment-6813037
Share on other sites

Nistune and PFC are approximately the same capability. PFC is less legal. Nistune is also illegal, but at least it is in the factory ECU, so it looks like the original ECU.

400HP at the fly or at the wheels? Either is really a doddle for either ECU anyway, so it hardly matters. You can get close to 400HP at the flywheel on the factory AFM with Nistune or PFC. 400 at the wheels will require a Z32 AFM, but also be pushing the limits of what an unopened engine is happy running without breaking anyway.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/423300-tunes/#findComment-6813071
Share on other sites

Biggest nissan AFM (Z32 AFM) is up to 500hp.

If you are chasing over 500hp you need map senser ecu (motec , haltech etc).

So ECU is depends on power.

If you are drive mainly on street nistune (remap) is best.

Dont forget Ford lightning MAF or a multiple afm setup.

400 - 500rwkw no worries.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/423300-tunes/#findComment-6814087
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, I started this repair and got as far as "fixing" the holes with some fibreglass. God all those years working on boats came back quickly. I decided I'd reach out to some rust guys just to see what they would say about it. I came across a guy about 40 mins away and went to see him. He said the windscreen needs to come out, that there might be some more bits around the windscreen and he'd quote them at the time. But his quote was $300 to remove and replace windscreen and $3k for the damage he can see. He said he could respray the roof for $1200 and the bonnet for another $800 (somebody has previously rattle canned it, its horrendous). This is $5300 + any small additional bits. It's a lot, I get that and the name of one of my fave youtube channels 'Not Economically Viable' comes to mind.  I'm not being financially rational, but I've taken him up on the quote. He's opening a new shop in November with more room, so we're waiting for that. I'll leave the currently missing headliner out until then. I'm looking forward to it being fixed and having the paint looking nice again (lots of clear coat issues on the roof too). / flame suit on.
    • Oh and some up-and-comings; New rear drivers wheel bearing. I'll do that this weekend while the diff is out. The car is already up and the d/c axles and missing exhaust will help with space. This is the last bearing for me to do and I've been dragging my feet on it. I also have some new EBC blue stuff pads for the car and some new brake fluid. I haven't ever flushed the fluid in this car and looking forward to it. I have 600 degree fluid to put in. Not exactly "race fluid" but better than the typical stuff I have been using.
    • A proper clutch/plate type mechanical diff with quite a lot of pre-load and high locking % is better for drifting. Much more consistent in its behaviour. A helical can be annoyingly vague and inconsistent in how it responds under the sorts of abuse found in drifting.
    • Some updates here. I pulled the entire interior out, minus some trim to respray the seats with Colourlock dye. It turned out really nice though I accidentally let the dog in the car after and she scratched up the front seat.  This is what it looked like before, the colour was just washing out everywhere but thankfully the leather was in good nic. Then after the respray   And after the bloody dog jumped in The headliner is out waiting to be retrimmed, but it will stay out now until Nov - see why below. I replaced the stereo/headunit with a period-styled Android headunit. I have no after pics, but I'll get some. This is because of the missing pixels. I tried to fix this twice with replacement ribbon cables but couldn't. Also the bluetooth interface I'd bought for this was crap. Then there's the rusty roof. Pics and info in this other thread. I have decided to get this repaired professionally, but I'll update that thread. This is why the headliner will stay out for now. I'll be getting the roof and bonnet resprayed at the same time the rust is fixed. I also had an interesting issue with my drivers door lock.  For a small period I was having issues getting any 12v power to the car - I mean *any*. It would have no dash lights, nothing. It happened while I was at the shops and I couldn't get in the car. So, we had 2 problems. The most pressing here is that I was locked out. I have only a single physical key hole on the car, the drivers door and no amount of turning would unlock the car. Surely it doesn't need power for this? The second issue is why am I losing all power periodically, The battery isn't dead, its almost like the battery isn't even there. Two issues that were surprisingly easy to fix. You fellow BMW over-engineering lovers will appreciate this. The lock in the door has 5 states; mechanical lock, electric lock, neutral, electric unlock, mechanical unlock achieved at -90 degrees, -45 degrees, 0 degrees, 45 degrees and 90 degrees. Although, the unlock is towards the front of the car, so opposite for LHD countries. Sticking the key in and turning 45 left or right is what is used 99% of the time. It activates the central locking etc. 90 degrees is for dead battery access and, obvs, only un/locks the one door. But because the mechanical lock is never used and is 27 years old, it seizes up. I was totally unable to turn the key far enough to get to the mechanical unlock (At the time of locking myself out, I didn't even know this was a thing). I eventually did it with some vicegrips and teflon spray.  I made a quick vid for other E39 peeps.   The battery issue is totally new to me also - It wasn't making sufficient contact between the post and the terminal. The terminal was bolted on tight, but the car wouldn't have power. After checking the battery with my multimeter I accidentally contacted the terminal and the battery post and the car got power. The battery was only a few years old and in good condition. I cleaned the post and the terminal with a wire brush, bolted it back on tight and never had the issue again. I'm still surprised that despite having solid contact it didn't work. Also, the car was getting Warragamba sized pools of water in the back when it rained. My initial concern was another rust problem. But when I went out on Weds while it was raining and while I had no headliner in I could see a steady stream of water coming through the roof mounted aerial. As this aerial is for the (now removed) car phone I pulled it out and whacked a blanking grommet in the hole. It seems fine now. I'm thinking I might get the hole permanently filled when the rust is fixed. Moving forward and things in progress; The tailgate needs some attention. I have taken all the trim off to clean it all and address some small rust spots. I have partially done all of this but I'll finish it up hopefully this weekend. As all the trim are now entirely devoid of trim clips I have bought a heap of strong velcro and I'm hoping it does a good enough job as any of this trim in good condition is super expensive and usually in Europe as we dont have many of the wagons here. Suspension and brakes!!! This is exciting. In the front; New control arms New sway bar links New lower Eibach springs (the only modification I'm planning on this car) M Sport shocks (these came with the car and will replace the longer shocks in the car) New top mounts Used 540i calipers (stock brakes suck!) New 540i disks and pads (22x296 mm for 528 and 30x334 mm for 540i) New front wheel bearings (thank all that is holy for bolt on bearings!) Annnnd in the back; New control arms New sway bar links Adjustable air suspension arms (fool the car into what the current height is so the self levelling suspension can match the new front ride height) New ball joints I'll also be doing a brake fluid flush while I'm in there. I'm planning on switching the car over to the 16's that came with it so I can clean up and respray the M Sport 17's. They've lost a lot of colour over the years and have some gutter rash. None of this will start until the E90 is back.
    • You mean you will regret it for drifting duties? I don't quite follow.
×
×
  • Create New...