Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So im on leave till the 8th of May and ive started driving my car around alot more and started noticing alot of things i dislike about it and im getting bored (the itch that needs scratching).

My suspension is past used by date, ive read alot of mixed feelings about quality of BC's and Tanabe's, has any one experienced both? are there any downsides to either of them?

any info would be greatly appreciated

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/423457-tanabes-vs-bcs/
Share on other sites

I am using BC BR Series coilovers, height and dampening adjustable.
On road at the lowest dampening setting they are ok, a tad stiff, but in stock R32 seats you barely notice it.

But mine have 8Kg front and 6Kg rear springs, and has some decent lowering and is a bit bumpy. but on the freeway it's a dream to drive.
Corners tightly without any skittish behaviour too.

Haven't used Tanabe's in anything.
All my cars have had BC coilovers, and I like 'em.

Each to their own though.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/423457-tanabes-vs-bcs/#findComment-6814424
Share on other sites

I haven't used BC BR, or any BC but I'm sure you'll find they have a generic feel, similar to most coilovers. I use HSD HR, probably very similar if not the same, although the HSD use a larger diameter internal piston (a good thing in my mind, for my application)
What sort of driving are you doing with the car? For coilovers similarly priced, in a lot of street / occasional track situations, I don't think you'll notice any difference.

I sat as passenger in my friend's car who has the BC ER with adjustable damper and rebound adjustment, these felt pretty different to my HSD and BC BR in friend's cars, but then again, it's whole different car and setup so hard to provide a objective opinion.

As I suggested, for a street/occasional track car, I don't think you are going to notice any difference at the cheaper price point. :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/423457-tanabes-vs-bcs/#findComment-6814434
Share on other sites

fair enough, I was hoping someone would shed some light on the $400 difference between the two but if fitment is the same and build quality is the same maybe its not worth the $400?

as for the driving, i will probably never see track time but I use it to get me to the airport and back its about an hour drive all hiway. occasionally we use it for interstate travel as it takes the family and the two dogs quite comfortably.

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/423457-tanabes-vs-bcs/#findComment-6814441
Share on other sites

Thanks Rudi,

yeah im hearing alot of people are happy with them but ive also heard alot of people have heard a strange noise after installing them. on the up side they have dampening adjustment, where as i dont think Tanabe's NF's do? hopefully some more people will comment

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/423457-tanabes-vs-bcs/#findComment-6814498
Share on other sites

You need the dampening adjustment imo to set them up how you like them, My V1 BC's have a fairly soft spring setup perfect for the road, but with some firmer dampening they handle track work quite well.

Worth every cent, and no noises after more than 4 years.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/423457-tanabes-vs-bcs/#findComment-6814513
Share on other sites

nice one scotty,

mate having a look at the two types availible one says v1 design VT series?

http://justjap.com/store/product.php?productid=18628&cat=&page=1

is this what you have ?

also whats the difference between the RS and VT ? one says something about vehicles in which a camber plate upper mount is not available? whats this do for me ?

cheers

Edited by loymclure
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/423457-tanabes-vs-bcs/#findComment-6814521
Share on other sites

Yes Clint, they were all that was available back when I bought them. I am very happy with them, but I haven't felt the difference between those and the BR's. Better off putting the extra coin towards a front chassis brace imo.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/423457-tanabes-vs-bcs/#findComment-6814525
Share on other sites

yeah ive asked craig for a list of add on bits for the suspension and was hoping he would do it all when i take it down to get the shift kit done. Hoping to get all these nagging issues out of the way before i take it down to sydney though. lol he hasnt given me a list yet but hopefully soon.

this week is that supid throttle body,

next week will be the coilovers

week after will be shift kit and what ever else craig reckons will give us a tighter smoother ride.

week after that will be a zorst.... ( still no clue one what i want though... need something that looks like factory but has a nicer note and flow, but not to loud)

than im back at work.

lol i dont even know why im doing all of this.... probably just going to trade it in for a prado, pajero, grand cherokee for the mrs any way. I guess it would be nice to just finnish a car project for a change. give someone else a nice base to start from.

Its funny you buy a car for a price spend heaps of cash on it and then sell it for the same price you purchased it for, i think im getting to old for this sh!t

see what boredom does to a person?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/423457-tanabes-vs-bcs/#findComment-6814542
Share on other sites

http://www.jdmconcept.com.au/part/tanabe/nf-kit-coilover/stagea-nm35-vq25det

no damper adjustment

Tanabe NF Sustec Pro

Tanabe NF Sustec Pro is a height adjustable coilover set which adopts certain legth adjustment system. The damping force of the coilovers are non-adjustable. The spring for this kit is barrel-type as shown. By using barrel-type spring and absorbers, we acheived comfortable driving as well as superb handling

Sustec Pro NF. Special tuned for street (best ride quality for high driving sports)
SUSTEC PRO NF is for those who desire both high performance and maximum comfort from a suspension system. Pro NF is ideal for performance or street applications.

Dispelling a popular belief that a firm or harsh ride is a sign of a performance suspension, the short stroke, shortened case dampener of the Pro NF is extremely unique in that it’s internal construction allows it to deliver superior handling without sacrificing strength or ride comfort.

Unique double-cylinder design allows for full suspension stroke within the shortened shock body while Low-pressure gasses ensure smooth rebound characteristics for additional ride comfort.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/423457-tanabes-vs-bcs/#findComment-6814625
Share on other sites

They don't have base height adjustment, that would be a deal breaker for me.

When you lower the ride height you will be compressing the helper spring and shortening the usable stroke of the shock, less than ideal.

I'd get some BC as you were thinking, with suitable spring rates.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/423457-tanabes-vs-bcs/#findComment-6814849
Share on other sites

On my 1st R34 GT-R (non V-Spec), I had Tanabe springs installed over existing coilovers.

They were a progressive spring and the ride was more even with a return damping effect that was hard to unsettle. I loved it!

On my 2nd R34 GT-R (V-Spec II), the OEM coilovers were similar to the above setup, and ride was comparable, but the ride was higher.

On my current R34 GT-R (N1), the OEM coilovers were harsh at slow speed on suburban roads.

I wanted more balance, and thus I now have S-Tune Nismo. More oriented towards track as well as road.

All in all, I cannot fault the Tanabe springs. I've been in a Honda with Tanabe coilovers and the ride was impeccable.

BCs I have not had I'm afraid to compare with.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/423457-tanabes-vs-bcs/#findComment-6814978
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Given you're running a 2.8 and my 2.5 is not really like for like, I suspect there could be a bit more timing you could give it. What is the kW yield per degree you're putting through it? Here's my E85 map to give you an idea, where it was I could still get another 3~4kW per degree thrown at it.  
    • It turns out that Setrab make a fan specifically for the oil cooler which is great and I've installed it with minimal swearing. I removed my 2x 12in push fans from the front of my aircon condenser and wired them into this. My main thermo fans kick on when I use the aircon anyway and would effectively already be working as puller fans through the condensor which is infront of the rad. The push fans (understandably) didn't really do much in the config they were previously in so now they're out. Now we're on to the "Oil fan doesn't really do much either!". Yes I'll duct it next if it does nothing in heavy use which it shouldn't. But hey, the object exists and fits great and is cool. Let me have this. The car is still in the "do my fittings leak oil now? do my wheels actually rub?" phase. I did a spirited drive on them and didn't hear or feel anything. Then I got back home and noticed there were grind marks on the inside of the rims, though I couldn't see where they were touching I got out the grinder and attacked the suspects. Note: I do not know how to use a grinder. Then I realised I had dragged my new rims across my concrete driveway before I did this drive. I didn't think I had damage at that time when I briefly looked...... but remembered this occurred after I did all the angle grinding. The grinding on the wheels in some very specific spots. It's not around the whole rim for example, which lines up with dragging it across concrete more than hitting a suspension component for even 1 full rotation. So everything is currently painted and taped up and I need to test it some more to see if it really IS rubbing, but from inside the car it doesn't feel like it is. In other news I attempted to do a before and after comparison of the heads/cam upgrade thing. Dynos lie, everything is in different measurements. Here is the data from the sandown back straight. Car go faster than before. Vroom vroom.
    • Here's my base ignition. +3 correction to redline when shooting water/meth which is always on. Looking at my old ignition table, I should be able to add 1-2 degree's next time I'm on the dyno.  Let me know your thoughts. 
    • Given what I know now - same haha, but this was 12 years ago with second hand 740cc Nismo injectors in my S15 daily, I was too busy hunting elsewhere for the issue to even look at the injectors, running through some cleaner was a happy coincidence haha
    • Not a terrible idea. But if I ever had concerns that my injectors were sufficiently dirty to be causing me a problem, they would be out of the engine and onto the actual injector cleaner/testing bench.
×
×
  • Create New...