Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So on the weekend I put different front coilovers in my gtst and now the steering wheel is shaking like crazy at about 120. I don't know if maybe a wheel weight has come off and its just a coincidence that it did it after i swapped struts. Besides an inbalance or a bent rim what could cause this? Could it have anything at all to do with the different coilovers?

Cheers!

Damper adjustable? What settings are you using? Try upping the hardness if it's at full soft.

Wheel shake could also be bad tyres (I had that issue a while ago). Also have a look at your steering rack mounts and bushes.

Yeah damper adjustable and I've got them reasonably firm at the moment. But my front tyres are really bald on the inner edges. Getting a balance today to see if it improves anything. Cheers. Wheel alignment shouldn't really cause shaking though I don't think.

Yeah damper adjustable and I've got them reasonably firm at the moment. But my front tyres are really bald on the inner edges. Getting a balance today to see if it improves anything. Cheers. Wheel alignment shouldn't really cause shaking though I don't think.

mine would shake on the freeway around 110...turns out it was toeing out, on one side more than the other...not sure why, just wear and tear on bushes I suspect.. Probably caused by 200,000kms of my aggressive turning to the left or something I dunno..lol

...once aligned it was fine, even with the crappy tyres..

If you have issues best thing is usually take it to a alignment shop..I mean we can all sit here and play guessing games or you can just go spend 50$ and find out the problem and hopefully have it rectified,,,

Iv'e had this same issue with the same car since I bought the car.

I've changed radius rod bushes. Got new tyres. Balanced them. Twice. Dad 3x Front and Back Wheel alignments. Still have the problem.

I'm thinking its the aluminium spacers on the wheels. They just fit looselely over the studs and move around until you bolt the wheel in place. Obviously causing balance issues.

I need to find a way to stick spacers perfectly to the back of the wheel instead of the hubs.

OR better, does anyone know of any spacers that fit Perfectly centre on the stock GTS-t hubs?

Iv'e had this same issue with the same car since I bought the car.

I've changed radius rod bushes. Got new tyres. Balanced them. Twice. Dad 3x Front and Back Wheel alignments. Still have the problem.

I'm thinking its the aluminium spacers on the wheels. They just fit looselely over the studs and move around until you bolt the wheel in place. Obviously causing balance issues.

I need to find a way to stick spacers perfectly to the back of the wheel instead of the hubs.

OR better, does anyone know of any spacers that fit Perfectly centre on the stock GTS-t hubs?

isnt this why you buy hub centric spacers :blink:

isnt this why you buy hub centric spacers :blink:

Yea I guess so but I've only recently turned my attention to this and I'm new to it all. I took it to a wheel shop about the problem. Got them to fit another set of my own supplied control arms and hubs and they said they'll fit hubcentreic spacers on it but when I got the car home it was just loose aluminium plates with universal holes to fit the studs on them.

I only need about 10mm extra clearance on top of stock hubs so the rim spokes dont hit the brakes.

http://www.isc-performance.com/oilcoolers.html

These look huge.

Got a balance and all good ! Thanks for the help lads

Got to hear. Damn your luck :)

Edited by sonicz

Should have taken it back to them and ask wtf is this slip on crap.

GKTech have wheels spacers as well ;)

Man I don't mind slip on if its hub centric and properly symmetrical. My impression was this is what they will fit.

Thanks for pointing me to Gktech!

I found these

http://www.gktech.com/index.php/4-5x114-3-10mm-hub-centric-slip-on-spacers.html

That's all I friggin need :D Don't need the ones with the studs.

Ordering on Monday. Though I don't know what exactly "on back order" means in terms of how long till I get them

Maybe I should just go for the 15mm ones in stock and hope I don't need to flare the guards. I'll have a wider track. :cheers:

Edited by sonicz

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @666DAN sorry to bring you and old thread.     I've got my de+t done and it's all running great other than 1 small issue.    Car has remained auto with the na auto and tcm, I've used a stagea ecu with. NIstune board and everything is great other than my gear selection on the dash. It illuminates park, reverse, neutral, 3rd and 2nd when selected . But nothing when in  drive or what gear your in when you pop it into tiptronic. I'm sure there is maybe 1 wire in the ecu plug I need to move to rectify this. Do ya have any ideas?     Cheers man
    • Well I recently changed my rear axles and was thinking if I bumped anything, I have been driving the car for a while now though... But it has been raining today so everything is wet under the wheel arches. Brakes feel fine and can't hear any of the metal screamers, I had a squeak coming from one of the handbrake drums but that seems to have gone away a while ago. I was going down a hill when it lit up and I did feel the abs bite for a second and question why it did it?
    • Correct. Um. I dunno. I haven't cared enough about the way that the NA cars work to know for sure. But..... The 33/34 turbo manual cars have an electronic speed sensor in the gearbox that outputs a +/- (ie, sawtooth AC) voltage signal. That is connected to the speedo. The speedo then outputs a 0-5v square wave (ie, PWM) signal that the ECU (and any other CU on the bus) sees. The speed sensor is NOT directly connected to the ECU. So here's the problem. Your new ECU expects to see the PWM signal, but must somehow be getting a direct signal from the diff speed sensor. Which would suggest that the wiring of the NA car is not the same as the turbo cars. I think you will need to spend some time with (hopefully the wiring diagram for the car) and a multimeter to see what is connected to what. Then, presuming I am correct**, you would then want to separate the ECU speed signal input from the rest of the car's wiring, and probably either buy a speed signal converter, or build one using an arduino (or similar). That would take in the speed sensor signal and output a scaled (and suitably rearranged) signal for the ECU. ** We shouldn't presume that I am correct here, because there might be something else crazy going on. I don't think you could convert the speedo to be fed from the gearbox sensor, because the pulse rate from that sensor is probably different to the diff sensor and then the speedo would read wrongly. And this also wouldn't fix the ECU's problem either, because the ECU doesn't want to see the gearbox signal direct either (assuming that they are all on the same wiring, for some odd NA related reason, see above caveat!) Does this help? Probably not. Can you make it work? Almost certainly. With the above work. You should buy a handheld oscilloscope from Aliexpress so that you can view these signals directly. Connect up the probes and drive the car. Show photos of the screen when drving at known speeds and connected to different places, and we'll see what we can learn about it.
    • Assuming your brake pads are not worn right down, I'd add a little brake fluid. Is there any sign of a brake fluid leak?
    • Hello all,  I need of some help. On my drive home my handbrake light lit up and started flashing. When I got home I checked my handbrake sensor under the centre console and nothing seemed out of the ordinary. I have scanned my car via the consult port, no codes shown. Checked my brake fluid as well which is half full. Tried unplugging the brake master but it didn't change anything. Thoughts on what it could be? The master float doesn't seem to be stuck. My car is an 1998 ER34 sedan GT. No hicas but has ABS Photos below 👇🏾 
×
×
  • Create New...