Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Went to the QLD club tech night at fulcrum last night and I have about 9 degrees toe in on the rear, the left adjustment is bound up due to being very close to the exhaust and Fulcrum guys were worried it would snap. They recommended I goto nissan and get a new Pin, went to 2 dealerships today they have nfi what im talking about and claim its all aftermarket.

I tried telling them that its an N/A non hicas rear end without the hicas adjustment there and they refused to look they just kept saying it must be aftermarket >< ... so I failed on both accounts so I am looking at getting some adjustable rear toe arms to sort this out asap.

Can anyone recommend a decent brand to look at? Not interested in dodgy ebay items as I would like my suspension to stay intact but not chasing the most expensive bling either, just a good solid item

I am looking at these but not sure if they are the goods?

http://www.gktech.com/index.php/s14-s15-r33-r34-rear-toe-arms-sold-out-more-eta-late-july.html

on the GK page it says rose joint suspension is not legal for Australian roads? I have rose joints on my front end and never had a problem ?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/424569-rear-toe-arms/
Share on other sites

why not roadworthy? I thought they were safer than bushes

Something is more likely to break or crack with rose joints IMO. There's more much brittleness in the parts compared to a bush. Also debries can get in there and they probably wont last as long as a bush.

Why not get the best of both worlds?

n-btension.gif

Edited by sonicz
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/424569-rear-toe-arms/#findComment-6837744
Share on other sites

Because those big rubber bushes wibble and wobble and allow an amazing amount of fore-aft movement of the lower control arm.

The reason rose joints are illegal (well, unroadworthy, anyway) is that they are prone to wear because they have little protection from the entry of dust and grit into the joint. Even the "protected" ones are not really that good.

But they are the duck's nuts for taking all the slop out of caster arms. I wouldn't be without mine. Well, apart from the last few months while the car was getting ready to go over the pits, and that sucked!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/424569-rear-toe-arms/#findComment-6837877
Share on other sites

Because those big rubber bushes wibble and wobble and allow an amazing amount of fore-aft movement of the lower control arm.

The reason rose joints are illegal (well, unroadworthy, anyway) is that they are prone to wear because they have little protection from the entry of dust and grit into the joint. Even the "protected" ones are not really that good.

But they are the duck's nuts for taking all the slop out of caster arms. I wouldn't be without mine. Well, apart from the last few months while the car was getting ready to go over the pits, and that sucked!

Don't be so sure about wobble wobble, Polyurethane can be made so stiff they are close to solid bushes with a little give for ridiculous amounts of force which you wouldn't want to resonate through the car anyway. Even the softest ones are way stiffer than stock rubber bushes, and you dont see too many people complaining about wobble wobble in a brand new sports car etc.

As for rose joints, why dont people just put rubber boots over them? Heck why don't they come with boots out of the factory. If thats their biggest downfall seems like a simple thing to solve.

Please dont tell me the 30g of boot rubber will add weight to the car lol.

Edited by sonicz
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/424569-rear-toe-arms/#findComment-6845192
Share on other sites

Hmm.. I was told my rose joints are pretty nackered + cheap jap brand unknown..

I was looking at getting new ones but wasn't aware they we're illegal.

By the time I get my car back on the road I'll probably get defected for half the stuff again!

Pisses me off its getting harder and harder to own an import..

Edited by Zrobe
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/424569-rear-toe-arms/#findComment-6845289
Share on other sites

my last polyurethane castor rod bushes split, barely lasted a year.

if you want legal adjustable suspension on the cheap you can get the eccentric bushes that you press into arms/ rear hub uprights where the center is offset of alloy and the surrounding is polyurethane so you just adjust the center with a pair of pliers or such.

or if you want it to handle even better get adjustable rose jointed arms all round and just swap it out like i do myself if you need a rwc for some reason

GKtech + 1

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/424569-rear-toe-arms/#findComment-6846149
Share on other sites

  • 6 months later...

Yer if it was thst easy I would of done that but its not lock bar out rod end out then what punch out rod end bolds from nuckle cos it dose not just fit surely someone has fitted them , what about the other side

Thanks for the advice have you fitted them in your car?????

If so show us a pic of your stright forward swop so I can see !

Thsnks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/424569-rear-toe-arms/#findComment-7130294
Share on other sites

I have pulled every arm off the back end of my car at one time or another. A lot of Penetrene and patience has been needed at times, but they all just come off in the way that you'd expect. If you're having trouble with the tapers, then you need a pickle fork or ball joint splitter or a couple of hammers. Usual technique for splitting tapers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/424569-rear-toe-arms/#findComment-7130315
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...
  • 10 years later...
On 5/4/2013 at 1:10 AM, GTSBoy said:

Because those big rubber bushes wibble and wobble and allow an amazing amount of fore-aft movement of the lower control arm.

The reason rose joints are illegal (well, unroadworthy, anyway) is that they are prone to wear because they have little protection from the entry of dust and grit into the joint. Even the "protected" ones are not really that good.

But they are the duck's nuts for taking all the slop out of caster arms. I wouldn't be without mine. Well, apart from the last few months while the car was getting ready to go over the pits, and that sucked!

Is this still the case?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/424569-rear-toe-arms/#findComment-7988457
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even with the piston at TDC there was room for it to drop, but I don't think it can drop fully into the cylinder, the problem you have is that you need something pushing against the valve to hold it up so you have enough room to put the new stem seal on and the spring etc.  I used compressed air only because putting rope in the cylinder seemed a bit risky to me, I know people have done it countless times before like this. Overall it's a pain in the ass job. Honestly you'd probably be better off taking the head off because the risk of dropping something in the engine and the finicky-ness of it all is very stressful. If you are going to attempt it though i 10000% recommend a 36050 valve spring/keeper tool. I had both the traditional lever type and after doing 1 cylinder it was absolute pain to get those valve keepers in place, even with 2 people. That 36050 is amazing, you do have to push hard to get them in place but it works perfectly almost every time. Back to my actual issue I think my engine is just tired and old and the rings have gone bad. The comp numbers (cold, no oil) were: Cyl 1 -129psi Cyl 2 - 133psi Cyl 3 - 138psi Cyl 4 - 137psi Cyl 5 - 157psi Cyl 6 - 142psi   Cylinder 5 and 6 having the most carbon on them.
    • Who did you have do the installation? I actually know someone who is VERY familiar with the AVS gear. The main point of contact though would be your installer.   Where are you based in NZ?
    • Look, realistically, those are some fairly chunky connectors and wires so it is a reasonably fair bet that that loom was involved in the redirection of the fuel pump and/or ECU/ignition power for the immobiliser. It's also fair to be that the new immobiliser is essentially the same thing as the old one, and so it probably needs the same stuff done to make it do what it has to do. Given that you are talking about a car that no-one else here is familiar with (I mean your exact car) and an alarm that I've never heard of before and so probably not many others are familiar with, and that some wire monkey has been messing with it out of our sight, it seems reasonable that the wire monkey should be fixing this.
    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
×
×
  • Create New...