Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Went to the QLD club tech night at fulcrum last night and I have about 9 degrees toe in on the rear, the left adjustment is bound up due to being very close to the exhaust and Fulcrum guys were worried it would snap. They recommended I goto nissan and get a new Pin, went to 2 dealerships today they have nfi what im talking about and claim its all aftermarket.

I tried telling them that its an N/A non hicas rear end without the hicas adjustment there and they refused to look they just kept saying it must be aftermarket >< ... so I failed on both accounts so I am looking at getting some adjustable rear toe arms to sort this out asap.

Can anyone recommend a decent brand to look at? Not interested in dodgy ebay items as I would like my suspension to stay intact but not chasing the most expensive bling either, just a good solid item

I am looking at these but not sure if they are the goods?

http://www.gktech.com/index.php/s14-s15-r33-r34-rear-toe-arms-sold-out-more-eta-late-july.html

on the GK page it says rose joint suspension is not legal for Australian roads? I have rose joints on my front end and never had a problem ?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/424569-rear-toe-arms/
Share on other sites

why not roadworthy? I thought they were safer than bushes

Something is more likely to break or crack with rose joints IMO. There's more much brittleness in the parts compared to a bush. Also debries can get in there and they probably wont last as long as a bush.

Why not get the best of both worlds?

n-btension.gif

Edited by sonicz
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/424569-rear-toe-arms/#findComment-6837744
Share on other sites

Because those big rubber bushes wibble and wobble and allow an amazing amount of fore-aft movement of the lower control arm.

The reason rose joints are illegal (well, unroadworthy, anyway) is that they are prone to wear because they have little protection from the entry of dust and grit into the joint. Even the "protected" ones are not really that good.

But they are the duck's nuts for taking all the slop out of caster arms. I wouldn't be without mine. Well, apart from the last few months while the car was getting ready to go over the pits, and that sucked!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/424569-rear-toe-arms/#findComment-6837877
Share on other sites

Because those big rubber bushes wibble and wobble and allow an amazing amount of fore-aft movement of the lower control arm.

The reason rose joints are illegal (well, unroadworthy, anyway) is that they are prone to wear because they have little protection from the entry of dust and grit into the joint. Even the "protected" ones are not really that good.

But they are the duck's nuts for taking all the slop out of caster arms. I wouldn't be without mine. Well, apart from the last few months while the car was getting ready to go over the pits, and that sucked!

Don't be so sure about wobble wobble, Polyurethane can be made so stiff they are close to solid bushes with a little give for ridiculous amounts of force which you wouldn't want to resonate through the car anyway. Even the softest ones are way stiffer than stock rubber bushes, and you dont see too many people complaining about wobble wobble in a brand new sports car etc.

As for rose joints, why dont people just put rubber boots over them? Heck why don't they come with boots out of the factory. If thats their biggest downfall seems like a simple thing to solve.

Please dont tell me the 30g of boot rubber will add weight to the car lol.

Edited by sonicz
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/424569-rear-toe-arms/#findComment-6845192
Share on other sites

Hmm.. I was told my rose joints are pretty nackered + cheap jap brand unknown..

I was looking at getting new ones but wasn't aware they we're illegal.

By the time I get my car back on the road I'll probably get defected for half the stuff again!

Pisses me off its getting harder and harder to own an import..

Edited by Zrobe
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/424569-rear-toe-arms/#findComment-6845289
Share on other sites

my last polyurethane castor rod bushes split, barely lasted a year.

if you want legal adjustable suspension on the cheap you can get the eccentric bushes that you press into arms/ rear hub uprights where the center is offset of alloy and the surrounding is polyurethane so you just adjust the center with a pair of pliers or such.

or if you want it to handle even better get adjustable rose jointed arms all round and just swap it out like i do myself if you need a rwc for some reason

GKtech + 1

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/424569-rear-toe-arms/#findComment-6846149
Share on other sites

  • 6 months later...

Yer if it was thst easy I would of done that but its not lock bar out rod end out then what punch out rod end bolds from nuckle cos it dose not just fit surely someone has fitted them , what about the other side

Thanks for the advice have you fitted them in your car?????

If so show us a pic of your stright forward swop so I can see !

Thsnks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/424569-rear-toe-arms/#findComment-7130294
Share on other sites

I have pulled every arm off the back end of my car at one time or another. A lot of Penetrene and patience has been needed at times, but they all just come off in the way that you'd expect. If you're having trouble with the tapers, then you need a pickle fork or ball joint splitter or a couple of hammers. Usual technique for splitting tapers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/424569-rear-toe-arms/#findComment-7130315
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...
  • 10 years later...
On 5/4/2013 at 1:10 AM, GTSBoy said:

Because those big rubber bushes wibble and wobble and allow an amazing amount of fore-aft movement of the lower control arm.

The reason rose joints are illegal (well, unroadworthy, anyway) is that they are prone to wear because they have little protection from the entry of dust and grit into the joint. Even the "protected" ones are not really that good.

But they are the duck's nuts for taking all the slop out of caster arms. I wouldn't be without mine. Well, apart from the last few months while the car was getting ready to go over the pits, and that sucked!

Is this still the case?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/424569-rear-toe-arms/#findComment-7988457
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This. A 3d wheel alignment is like $120...just take it to the shop. Since theres probably multiple adjustments that need to be made after changing something. Mine has front/rear lower arms, traction rods, tension rods, camber arms, toe arms, front upper arms, hicas kit, sway bars and coilovers. I measure from the edge of the bolt holes on the originals and set the same length on all the adjustable stuff to dial it as close as I could to OEM. Took it straight for alignment; it didnt feel right at all...after alignment, it feels perfect. Similarly i've just changed the springs on another car; and I still needed multiple adjustments to bring it back in spec.
    • A full Veilside kitted JZA80 Supra in Meriken park in Kobe city a few weeks back
    • Its a well known brand in New Zealand; its a rebrand of the Rhino RAV3.  I don't know what the wiring difference *is* between the rev.1 (installed about 15 years ago) and rev.2; but as you say I would think its reasonable that it uses the same immobiliser relay circuits. I had a look but couldnt see a similar harness; but didnt move things around since I didnt want to mess with it   It was one of AVS well known Authorised Installers; I spoke to AVS themselves about it but theyre unsure hence seeking advice more so from the skyline community who are more familiar with the actual car and its wiring. Im in Auckland; but the installer is on the other side of the city so hes very reluctant to come back to even look at it to confirm something isnt connected into the wrong wire.  I dont want to drop the name since they *did* do a really good job for the most part. Everything is very tidy and he fully replaced all the alarm wiring, all the sensors, the wiring to the door motors, installed a switch which was never installed in the first place...really happy with the alarm install itself..just not this one issue. We all make mistakes, if it is the alarm, I just want my fuel pump getting proper switched, fused, power as it was; without having to shell out for an auto electrician to switch a wire and tell me it was the alarm. 
    • Even with the piston at TDC there was room for it to drop, but I don't think it can drop fully into the cylinder, the problem you have is that you need something pushing against the valve to hold it up so you have enough room to put the new stem seal on and the spring etc.  I used compressed air only because putting rope in the cylinder seemed a bit risky to me, I know people have done it countless times before like this. Overall it's a pain in the ass job. Honestly you'd probably be better off taking the head off because the risk of dropping something in the engine and the finicky-ness of it all is very stressful. If you are going to attempt it though i 10000% recommend a 36050 valve spring/keeper tool. I had both the traditional lever type and after doing 1 cylinder it was absolute pain to get those valve keepers in place, even with 2 people. That 36050 is amazing, you do have to push hard to get them in place but it works perfectly almost every time. Back to my actual issue I think my engine is just tired and old and the rings have gone bad. The comp numbers (cold, no oil) were: Cyl 1 -129psi Cyl 2 - 133psi Cyl 3 - 138psi Cyl 4 - 137psi Cyl 5 - 157psi Cyl 6 - 142psi   Cylinder 5 and 6 having the most carbon on them.
    • Who did you have do the installation? I actually know someone who is VERY familiar with the AVS gear. The main point of contact though would be your installer.   Where are you based in NZ?
×
×
  • Create New...