Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

I forgot my old account name and email with it so I made a new one.

Long story short, I am currently selling my GQ Patrol and am about to buy another skyline.

Most likely an R33 GTS-T and will be going with the fairly common route of unopened rb25 / gt3076r based build.

Now, I have lieing around one of those cheap stainless steel china manifolds and I will be using it in the build. I know it would be wiser to go with a nice steampipe manifold from 6boost/ ETM etc etc but I have one, its free and currently in perfect condition.

I am aware these crack easily but have heard rumour that if you brace and support the manifolds to take alot of the weight off them it can help with preventing this.

I was wondering if anyone who has braced / reinforced a stainless manifold could post up how they did it with pics or similar. It would be great.

I was thinking of just bracing the individual runners themselves as well as bracing the entire manifold to the engine bay or similar to help take the weight off it.

Any info or experiences would be great.

YES I DID SEARCH BTW

Cheers

Hey guys,

I was thinking of just bracing the individual runners themselves as well as bracing the entire manifold to the engine bay or similar to help take the weight off it.

and what happens when the engine moves?

lol....i think a brace from the turbo flange on the manifold to the head flange on the manifold can work wonders mate,,,both are solid lumps of steel so joining them kinda makes sense..just make sure nothing is in the way of your turbo lines and your laughing ..

Precisely what ARTZ said. Weld a rod or two from the head flange to the turbo flange and it will help keep the stress off the exhaust runners in between.

Also try and support the dump pipe somewhere so the first half of the exhaust isn't hanging from the turbo, that will also help.

Great idea, I could add an extra hangar to the dump pipe.

I was also thinking of adding a flex piece to the dump pipe, do they cause any restrictions in flow? I would be aiming around the 300rwkw area with the 0.82 GT3076R and supporting mods (fmic, injectors, etc etc).

Also, the mainfold has a wastegate pipe for a 38mm gate. The pipe is not on an ideal angle and I dont want to run a 38mm gate. I am going to get an external wastegate welded onto the turbine housing. If I simply cut the wastegate pipe as short as possible and cap it off will this small pipe create any negative effects on flow in the manifold?

Here is a pic showing where I would cut and weld shut the pipe on the manifold (not my manifold but exact same type).

30sdqtv.jpg

I use the flex pieces all the time. They work well and provide a nice amount of 'give' for the exhaust system, however I put it right at the bottom of the dump pipe where it connects to the rest of the exhaust system.

If possible use the next size up for your dump pipe if it is still to be fabricated, especially if you are going to plumb the waste gate back into it somewhere. So use a 3.5" dump pipe with a 3" system from there back.

You can cut it off close to where it merges with the other pipes, however leave a little bit out, perhaps 3/4" worth and tig a cap over it. Or you could just bolt a cover plate onto the flange, that will work fine too. It wont really make any noticeable difference. With the welding of the support rods, make sure you use stainless and make sure it is tig welded on. If it is mild steel and mig'd it will more then likely crack off and potentially cause more stress risers.

Just cap off the flange and do as r33_racer said, use a flexible bellow for the exhaust. The reason so many of those manifolds crack quickly is because they're solid mounted to the exhaust which acts like a big lever on the manifold.

Don't try and weld bracing on it, it an just make things worse.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
×
×
  • Create New...