Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

red = bp ultimate (98 RON)

blue = powerplus e85 (106 RON)

Nice. Hits 17psi at the same kind of rpm as Bri73y's HTA GT3076R did on E85 on his run in tune ;)

gallery_36777_3194_29295.jpg

will it do a 10 second 1/4 mile?

Maybe we should try and peer pressure Bri73y into doing a 1/4 mile run when he has his full tune done on his car and see how it goes. I never claimed a car with one would be a 10 second car, but I reckon with the right setup it would be possible.

also depends where you get your freddy but there are some reputable sellers and then there is the other guys...

I sold mine to battery who bolted it straight on and hasn't had an issue, so don't belive the hype ;)

Haha ouch! I handed it to Plazmaman thankyou very much :laugh:

3200? :0

Edit - argh its been ages since I looked at it, I thought it was 17psi by around 3400rpm, my bad.

Looking at it, it looks like you both reach 13psi by around 3300rpm on E85 (comparing fuel for fuel). After that point it is hard to compare, partly due to dyno scale and partly as his looks like it has a lazier boost control setup which is totally unrelated to the turbo itself so after that point the boost climb tapers off. If the boost kept climbing like it was, it looks like it is on a similar kind of mission - the GT2835 might have a tiny little edge over it, but comparing with a turbo which is flow wise a much better match to the engine and capable of 100+whp more I think it's a pretty respectable thing.

I never said it was exactly the same, when you are talking 100rpm or so it is hardly going to be worlds apart - and that is more the point I was trying to make.

Fair point... Although with more tuning we did get the e85 boost up to pretty much where the pulp was :)

Also looks like the boost isn't properly sorted on that run in tune so there might be more in it response wise?

Fair point... Although with more tuning we did get the e85 boost up to pretty much where the pulp was :)

Also looks like the boost isn't properly sorted on that run in tune so there might be more in it response wise?

When i first saw it i was surprised! Will be good too see how the car turns out! Interesting that is for sure!

You get what you pay for ;)

Geez!

I DID buy from a reputable sponsor of this forum! Only through research and quite a bit of homework did i learn of this need.

... try provide some friendly advice ....

Haha don't take it to heart bro everyone has a crack at everyone on here lol. No big deal. Plazmaman is the way to go anyway. And after looking at my receipt my plazmaman throttle is 66mm the smallest. If someone ever buys my 2535 HKS I'll be putting on roys greddy t67 or a FP 3076.

Edited by Joshbigt62r

Obviously because I own one haha kidding.

Realistically there's F all difference between them. Just what looks you prefer I guess. People say the longer factory runners are better but a mate of mine sold his plazmaman and went Freddy for basically zilch difference. I'll see if he can russle up the dyno sheets for me to put up He doesn't go on here anymore.

Edited by Joshbigt62r

Fair point... Although with more tuning we did get the e85 boost up to pretty much where the pulp was :)

Also looks like the boost isn't properly sorted on that run in tune so there might be more in it response wise?

Ah ok, nice :) I had considered getting one of those at one point as they seemed like they'd be really nice but for me they seemed just slightly on the smaller side for my liking - but still really good. Much prefer the idea of them to GT-RS!

The overall tune in that plot is just a run in tune so I'd not take it as anything more than a loose indication of where things were going to be heading - I really reckon those things + RB25DETs would be a match made in heaven. At least by my tastes :)

i think Staos pushed over 400 through his....

At 431rwkws on stock inlet manifold held it fine, I don't think it has issues crunch 460rwkws either, not sure at exactly what power level larger inlet manifold and throttle body starts to take effects. The positive side of those forward facing plenums would be the ability to adapt on shorter cooler pippings instead of having them looping around the rocker cover.

The boost behavior seems to be common to the x28x type of turbine wheels even with customized larger turbine exducer trim. it really needs to have taller inducers and larger dia to be efficient enough for the RB25det motor.

Ah ok, nice :) I had considered getting one of those at one point as they seemed like they'd be really nice but for me they seemed just slightly on the smaller side for my liking - but still really good. Much prefer the idea of them to GT-RS!

The overall tune in that plot is just a run in tune so I'd not take it as anything more than a loose indication of where things were going to be heading - I really reckon those things + RB25DETs would be a match made in heaven. At least by my tastes :)

if it can match the 2835 for response, or even come within 500 rpm it will be an amazing bit of kit

The boost behavior seems to be common to the x28x type of turbine wheels even with customized larger turbine exducer trim. it really needs to have taller inducers and larger dia to be efficient enough for the RB25det motor.

if you are referring to the HKS turbo, dont forget it's a modified 30xx not a 28xx and HKS just didn't update their names with garrett

if it can match the 2835 for response, or even come within 500 rpm it will be an amazing bit of kit

In terms of spool on the dyno it was never going to match exactly, even with the boost curve nailed - but within 500rpm, more likely. In terms of transient response it may be closer again, but having a full size GT30 turbine and larger a/r will always keep it a little less snappy at lower rpm. Once on the boil it'll be gravy :)

The overall performance will be interesting, however!

my thoughts exactly...

transient response is the most important thing in my opinion (hence me sticking with stock cams), but that thing will definitely be a killer up top, and fairly easy to keep there on larger tracks....

might fail a little in the really twisty stuff though

I'd say it'd be killer mid-range and up-top, really low down (ie, sub 3500rpm) will be where it'll be giving anything away to GT28 and trimmed GT30 turbines and the difference is not going to be in fail levels, by any stretch of the imagination.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
    • There is a really fun solution to this problem, buy a Haltech (or ECU of your choice) and put the MAF in the bin.  I'm assuming your going to want more power in future, so you'll need to get the ECU at some stage. I'd put the new MAF money towards the new ECU. 
×
×
  • Create New...