Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey all, i've been hunting around carsales and what not, and its come nearly to a time to decide what car to get, being a skyline and nissan fan.
i was looking at r32's not a big fan of r33's really but i found an r34 on carsales (1999 Nissan Skyline R34 25GT) and it got me thinking what one to get? i've found several around the 7'000 mark and because i've only got 10'000 to play with i may as well save some incase something does go wrong? further thoughts please anyone?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/425239-best-first-skyline-for-under-7500/
Share on other sites

Have you looked in the For Sale section here on SAU?

People selling cars on SAU have mostly sorted out most/all bugs and have faith in what they're selling.

If they can't be bothered fixing something, they then put it on carsales with other non-members. Of course there's a wider audience on carsales too.

You mentioned carsales twice - and not once at all about the forum here. That's why I asked.

On inspection, take someone with you who is conversant with the type of car you're after huh?

i agree with terry but i think the question was more whats our recommendations on what to get as a good first skyline...

given that you have only 1 post and thats this one and not know your age could be hard but plenty of cheap R32's and lotsa parts for them! r34's are slightly more exy and well there is lotsa parts there for them too

its hard to answer given we know nothing about you or what you want and at the end of the day you are the one that will like it and drive it.

  • 2 weeks later...

Forums are the best place to buy. There is usually some sort of history to be found, others could have seen the car at cruises and the seller is most likely to be honest about the car. Under 7k. Besr bet would be a 33gtst. I personally prefer the look of the 32, its a little smaller, a little lighter but the 25 imo and many others, is a better engine to drive daily unless u dont mind less torque. 34's are coming down in price but better performance again than a 33 so your usually looking at 10-15 for something decent. Plenty around so good luck

i got my r33gtst for 5000 i love the car, i have only had one problem which was the a/c idler bearing was squeeling less than $5 to fix.

look on more than just carsales look at trading post boostclassifieds gumtree(careful on there) but forums are the best bet from the soounds of it and i can see the reasoning, give the guys a bit more details about yourself like on p's or not and what you want is for, and also make sure you look over everything you can

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/35129-im-buying-a-skyline-what-should-i-look-for/

prettymuch gives you the perfect rundown. its a big read but worth it.

Problem with R31's is that they are up to 10 years older than a 33. If its an Aus model then yeah you will find a nice turbo example for 7. May be RB30 or RB25. A nice modified HR31 may go for 7 which is a shame. It may still have the RB20 or a 25. When you get into the Import 31's parts can be pretty expensive to buy and some are just damn hard to find. Stick with a 33. Parts are everywhere, they are cheaper, car has newer/better technology and you spend less to made them go well.

I thought the HR31s were appreciating in value, especially for good condition ones.

I have a mate who has both a Passage and a GTS-X - they're fairly rare and most of the aftermarket (or even model specific OEM) parts are bloody expensive and hard to find in Australia. The interior of them is also fairly lacking as well as the actual seating feel (feels like you are sitting on the window sill), definitely not a patch on the R32.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...