Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys new to the forum..

I am quite mechanically minded and have fitted an rb25det into a gu patrol.

I am running a stock as a rock rb25det skyline engine. Only difference is using the patrol top mount intercooler.

Everything seems to be running really well, doesn't overheat, boosts fine, runs 7 pound and everything seems responsive. BUT after a very short drive the turbo starts to glow and not under heavy load. And when I do heavy load it the turbo starts to get a brighter glow.. What do I do???.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/425529-my-rb25det-turbo-glowing-help/
Share on other sites

There is no restriction full 3 inch straight through exhaust, has a 3 and a half inch brand new high flow cat literally done less than an hour running on.

Waste gate joins to the intake pipe as per standard rb25det.

And the top mount intercooler sealed with no leaks with no restrictions

hows your fuel economy? is unburnt fuel / still burning fuel going through the turbo? that motor will be working hard lugging around a fat patrol

Edited by StevenCJR31

Well couldn't tell you about economy as haven't run it long enough coz I don't wanna blow it..

I'm not 100% if there's unburnt fuel, normally there would be some smoke? Yes? But there is none, it does get some cracklling up when coming down gears.

A lot of people have done the conversion and had no problem with it carrying the wait.. Figured this was a problem someone might have had an issue with in a skyline.

Well couldn't tell you about economy as haven't run it long enough coz I don't wanna blow it..

I'm not 100% if there's unburnt fuel, normally there would be some smoke? Yes? But there is none, it does get some cracklling up when coming down gears.

A lot of people have done the conversion and had no problem with it carrying the wait.. Figured this was a problem someone might have had an issue with in a skyline.

if there was any smoke it MAY be burnt up in the cat ? for the turbo to glow like that there must be fuel burning in it, if that is the case then the stock turbo wont live a long life, from what ive read on here there hasnt been a lot of glowing turbo problem skylines~one or two with warped exhaust manifolds tho! would it be feasable for you to try a front mount ic to eleminate any possible restriction?

Yea can't fit a front mount without removing ac, and by glowing I mean turbo is red hot glowing... It shouldn't get that red from not boosting for heavy periods... In my opinion but I haven't worked With these motors before

Have you checked your timing? Could be that it is heaps retarded and blowing out the burning fuel through the turbo

Checked the timing and set it at 15 btdc With timing gun, and that turbo gets way to red hot.. If the crank was out would the car still run perfect but overfuel/ under fuel??

Sounds like It may be running lean, can be caused by a few things. For example when I bought my curent engine, there was a mix up with the plenums put on it and I got an NA one with NA injectors in it. Surprisingly the Motor still ran smooth (was surprised it ran at all) so took me ages to find what my lack of power was caused by. But anyway that caused my turbo to glow red with just moderate load. So morral to the story, check everything related to the fuelling system.

P.S. surprisingly I don't have 6 cracked pistons from the running lean from the balls injectors :)

Running lean it will generally run well (you make more power lean than rich, to a point). But it runs hot. I'd say that the fuel pump may be to blame, or possibly a blocked fuel filter.

Pull out the spark plugs. That will give you an idea on whether it's running lean

Has brand new vl turbo fuel pump, brand new fuel filter.. Everything runs really well when it's timed about 25btdc, but the turbo glows just not as quick.. Someone said it may be the reg letting through too much fuel? That's why I thought increasing the timing is helping it burn off but still not enough to keep the turbo cool. Thinking maybe aftermarket fuel reg. but I have a mate bringing a wide band over tomorrow before I buy anything so il know for sure..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...