Jump to content
SAU Community

R34 Hard To Start/not Starting.

JiN_MaN

By JiN_MaN,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

JiN_MaN Veteran

JiN_MaN

Posted
Posted

R34 Neo Turbo

Car wont start now unless I give it a small bit of 'Start ya Bastard' then it fires 1st go and idles fine.

It has been taking longer and longer to start over the last month and today it wouldnt start at all without some help. Car was having this problem before, but I have just changed, turbo, injectors, ECU, coilpacks x2.

I do get code 21, ignition, but that was when I had a missfire. I changed coilpacks and it now runs fine when started. I haven't rechecked to see if Im still getting code 21.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/425625-r34-hard-to-startnot-starting/
Share on other sites
Sinista32 Grand Master

Sinista32

Posted
Posted

Have you checked to see if you have any new codes? Link to codes

Just on the issue of hard starting

- Plugs fouled or incorrect gap

- Battery - Cranking power (no dead cells)

When you were changing the turbo, injectors and coilpacks - did you move/unplug the TPS, TCS etcetera ... have you reset the ECU since then and checked for new codes.

Maybe the quickest way to identify your issue/s.

JiN_MaN Veteran

JiN_MaN

Posted
  • Author
Posted

So bit of an update,

Changed spark plugs, no change.

Showing Code 55 (no faults)

I can restart the car if I have had it running within 30 seconds otherwise I have to give it another spray of start ya bastard.

Im starting to thing vacuum leak. I say this because if I give it a rev it drops to 500rpm after and then goes back to idle at 1000rpm. It doesnt catch the revs on the way back down, if that makes any sense.

Kinkstaah Grand Master

Kinkstaah

Posted
Posted

I had this once, after doing pretty much everything in this thread, and it turns out that it was caused by the ECU not giving any timing when starting the car.. even though once started it would run fine...

JiN_MaN Veteran

JiN_MaN

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I had this once, after doing pretty much everything in this thread, and it turns out that it was caused by the ECU not giving any timing when starting the car.. even though once started it would run fine...

Ive got a spare ECU ill change it and try again but I have just replaced the ECU. Had the problem before and after. Ill give the CAS a swap and AFM and after that im offically out of ideas.

Kinkstaah Grand Master

Kinkstaah

Posted
Posted

My ECU was fixed by the tuner who was like "uh oops" but there were plenty other issues at the time. ECU has since been changed and this was quite some time ago. I do recall the problem quite annoying at the time!

In my case it was a piggyback ECU sitting ontop of a normal ECU. You didnt mention what ECU you changed but I'd imagine no stock ecu would ever have a problem like this..

RB25DETC33 Community Regular

RB25DETC33

Posted
Posted (edited)

Checked all vac lines? Even under the charcoal canister, sometimes the vac hose coming out the bottom comes off. I had this happen on my 34. You can't see that its come off unless you specifically feel the underside of the canister.

Edited by RB25DETC33
  • 2 weeks later...
JiN_MaN Veteran

JiN_MaN

Posted
  • Author
Posted

So problem solved thanks to Jaustech.

The ECU gets start signal, and it has an inline fuse. The fuse had gone. Im not sure what the ECU does when it gets a start signal, possibly a bit more fuel to help kick it over im not sure.

To diagnose this you need to print off an ECU pinout diagram, find the 1 relating to starting and check to see if its getting a signal when cracking.

Now im not sure if the fuse is away from the normal fuse panels (drivers side engine bay/Drivers foot well) or not, but apparently that was the issue and it start like a dream now and runs great.

Moral of the story, check your fuses and if they are all good. Get the pinout for the ECU, find 1 relating to start signal, test.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • perry_r33
      R34 GTR Vspec Garage Sale - All must go!

      By perry_r33 · Posted

      Pm sent 
    • Robot
      Skyline v36 350GT sedan hunting on idle

      By Robot · Posted

      Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...