Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys

i have read alot of ppl here recommend the NPC clutches - i have just got my car back and aint is slipping now

NPC have offered -

10inch 5 puk carbotc button kit. this style of clutch will retain a factory pedal effort while holding up to 450rwkwThis style of clutch will be good for drift & track use. $800 deliver (so far price seems good)

i just wanna see who else is running this and what is there opinion -

i am running RB25det 315kw R33

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/425953-clutch-kit/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 45
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

na i didnt ask - but i been asking round and alot of companies in australia have said with my power i should be using twin or tripple plate..

then npc sent me this one.. and he said it is rated at 450kw lot higher then my car (314kw) and suits drift and track, so should suit me well - i will be driving it 1-2 days a week and then some drift days through out the year -

so i guess i wanna cover my power output that will suit my driving ie some street and drift (not pro lol)

i might ask him when i call him to order the kit.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/425953-clutch-kit/#findComment-6867454
Share on other sites

Hmm I payed 400 for my 5 puk carbotic clutch and its rated for pretty big power. Its still holding up after about 40000km. Ive heard they don't last as long as regular clutch material in standard cars. Do they give a life expectancy of their clutch?

one of the guys in canberra that is drifting all the time said he put in the 5 puk carbotic clutch.. and said its the way to go - how long it last i dont no

what sort of driving are you doing? and power output?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/425953-clutch-kit/#findComment-6867459
Share on other sites

Yeah this guy told me its the best thing to go with before going twin plate and its popular with drifters. What he told me though that the torque figure is more important than the kw. I was expecting the car to produce 320rwkw and about 500nm torque. The shop told me its the power is fine and its capable of holding about 600nm of torque.

I don't do drifting or anything but thats not to say the car hasn't seen some 1st gear launches and 2nd/3rd drops. Currently pushes 260. I also will say the clutch does not feel like a standard clutch in terms of pedal feel. My old exedy was heavier than this but this is also heavier than stock.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/425953-clutch-kit/#findComment-6867468
Share on other sites

mmmm thats interesting -

yeah i have been told its the torque out put - mine put out 480nm

wouldnt life be easier if they said clutch X suited for drift drag street blah blah, and will hold XYZ amount of torque..

do you have the part number for yours or a link?

most exedy dealers are advising me the stage 1 sports ceramic clutch -

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/425953-clutch-kit/#findComment-6867497
Share on other sites

I have 470hp running a single npc clutch and I can drop it in 3rd under full power and it just takes the punishment, and on the complete opposite side. My misses who hasn't driven a manual car since doing her license a good 4 year ago can drive with my clutch with minimal problems

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/425953-clutch-kit/#findComment-6867524
Share on other sites

nice nice,

i honeslty think npc will be the way i go - alot of ppl here through different cluch links recommend them and this is what they have offered me - i gave em all my details power and plans so i think i am gonna go for it - i am getting to many different opinions on exedy and then different opinions in quality ect - nothing negitive from npc -

guess i will soon find out

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/425953-clutch-kit/#findComment-6867570
Share on other sites

yeah i have thats why i mentioned it in my first post -

i was after opinions on if anyone else had the same clutch npc offered me, and how it was going for them and what power and driving they do..

(admin if this is suited or should be else where drivetrain then move if thats the case) apoligies

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/425953-clutch-kit/#findComment-6867671
Share on other sites

^^ I agree.

For the street the NPC organic holds plenty of power and is a pleasure to use. NPC might play it safe and tell you to go the carbotic clutch but unless you are a serial wife beater the organic clutch will be nicer to use day to day and will stand up to spirited use.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/425953-clutch-kit/#findComment-6867806
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
×
×
  • Create New...