Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Is that the Morimoto Mini H1?

Here's how mine looks:

lowbeam.jpg

IMAG0177.jpg

The dark streaks are caused by the outside lens and probably crap on the projector lens (which I should have cleaned). Crappy phone picture, but you can see the spread and even beam. My other set are better.

My R33 came with HID's, and i love em!

post-62143-0-62250600-1370492574_thumb.jpg

At first they light up a whiteish/blue colour, actually very nice. But when they warm up they have a yellow tinge. I don't mind that though, it keeps the cops away. Never had any attention towards my headlights.

They really help light up the night, even in the standard headlight housing. They even produce more light than my high beams i think!

I really don't think it's that bad. It could have been before i cleaned the headlights a while ago (headlight cleaning kit with sandpaper, polish and protectant seal), but i love them now. The difference between this and my old R33 S1 is very big. You don't have to play around with this globe or that globe, just fixes the problem straight away.

I've driven behind many friends and family at night, and no one has complained about glare. It doesn't compare to those 4WD's that pull up behind you on a red light and blind the hell out of you whenever your head is facing one of the rear view mirrors.

I've also driven by cops numerous times at night with no problems.

I've seen approximately 0 police pull over a car for having badly aligned/glare-y headlights. I see around 3 cars a month flash someone, so 95% of drivers just cop it in the face (much like drivers behind slow cars not doing anything about it).

Your car is low on the front + alignment is pointing down a lot. Of course it will be brighter than standard halogen, but the distribution of the light is more important, especially when it rains.

The amount of glare I see on Sydney roads is too damn high! More cars = more people running HID kits in their halogen housings = more glare. Also, lots of (~30% of cars I see) have lights that point up, which then cop some bi-xenon goodness from me.

If you ever get a chance, go for a drive in an OEM HID equipped car (like series 3 R33) or a car that someone did a retrofit to. If you do ever change to HIDs, you won't go back! Lol

These exact ones. If you do make sure you get the right hand drive ones! Shrouds come with the kit.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/MORIMOTO-MINI-H1-6-0-BIXENON-PROJECTORS-RHD-CLEAR-LENS-HID-H7-H4-RETROFITS-/261208782595?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3cd141b703

Or you could get them from TRS
http://www.theretrofitsource.com/product_info.php?products_id=3181

I will loose some of that cut off and blue once the head light covers go on :(

HAHAA really the sun??? it's winter right now, no amount of sun in Sydney is going to heat up plastic....maybe a heat gun will do?

wow they're not as expensive as i thought they'd be...thanks for the links mate will definitely look into getting these done some time.

You can use a heat gun, or a hair drier if there's a decent one laying around (your mum/sister/missus will get the shits though, so be prepared :P)

The HID retrofit has become a lot cheaper since Morimoto started making their own. Otherwise, you would have to source factory HID headlights.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • And if you want more power, more reliably, and cheaper, go get the Aussie RB... The 4L Barra and put that in instead.
    • No cats will keep discolouring the rear bar. Sends white paint a weird yellow stain. Cut and polish normally gets it out, but you'll be doing that every fortnight I found.
    • Both heads will be equally reliable or unreliable depending on what you do to them.  Stock the RB26 head will flow more. You have access to the stock intake ITB manifold on the RB26 cheaply which flows really well(1000hp+).   Arguably more aftermarket support for RB26, though in Aus we love our RB30 SOHC heads too.    The only downsides to the RB26 head is if you have a VL commodore and want to keep the SOHC look.  Where you may have an issue is drilling out the rb30 block for the bigger head studs but if you are building a big power motor you'd probably put bigger studs on the SOHC head too.  This is just about finding a good machine shop, sometimes easier said than done.  RB30 head worked can make big power just like a Rb26 head, so really it actually more comes down to what your preference is for your car.  People now even making billet versions of both.
    • 2630s work perfectly well. There is something to be said for just using the 30 head, as it saves all the pain of the conversion, still makes tons of power, still sounds cool, etc etc. 2630 will obviously make more power again, but the differences are not stupidly big. It really depends on whether you're racing for sheep stations or not. If it's dead serious, then it's a 26 head. If it's just for fun, it could go either way. But the 26 head and the effort to get it set up, etc etc, is part of the fun.
    • I've been building a 26/30 for a few years now. I've had the head built with all the good stuff. I had a 32 gtr but blew it up and yes its all going into a vl but im looking for some advice from some RB nuts on pros and cons on putting a 26 head on a 30 bottom end is it worth it Works are as follows Head -Extensive porting 1mm oversized supertech valves Supertech double springs Supertech valve guides Supertech titanium retainers Tomei solid lifters Tomei 270 x 10.25 cams Head drain Bottom end series 2 rb30 block Cp ceramic coated pistons Eagle rods Romac balancer Oil restrictions  O ringed blah blah spent a fortune And will get a girdle because the 30s arent used to handling that much rpm Nitto billet oil pump Hypertune plenum 6boost mani Refurbed astra pump thats the cover for it in the boot I did have a precision 6262 but sold it because drag car life. Currently building the ass end full 4 link floater rear end with a 2 speed  But the dilemma i have is my mate rekens I should just stick with the 30 head for reliability. Has any one had any issues with mounting the 26 head ie compression blowing gaskets etc. Just looking for some advice from people who have gone down this route. Here's some photos. Blew the oil pump in the gtr and decided to rip the motor out at the time and do a full build only to find it had been a repairable write off so went down this path.     
×
×
  • Create New...