Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well the set up is complete

booked for 5/12/14 Mick at Ovaboost will be tuning the car.Have gone with totally different parts from what I originally planned.Sold most things i had.As of now these are the mods

-gt3082 1.06 rear

-high mount steam mani

-50mm pro gate

-750cc bosch injectors

-Aftermarket front facing plenum

-bosch fpr

-Splitfires

-bigger throttle

-Haltech platinum pro

-pro flow fittings all around

-plus more

I'll post up photo of engine bay when im on comp.im expecting big power and the haltech is able to do alot of great things

Yes and it has alot of features too, boost can be controlled by the ecu using a mac, launch control & no need for afm . Engine bay looks really mint. One thing I've learnt Is that buy parts that you're going to use 110% well most things always don't go your way:/.

Here are photos. I went with blue. Tuner will do welding & other fabrication needed.

post-112075-0-51260300-1415593066_thumb.jpg

post-112075-0-71375800-1415593100_thumb.jpg

post-112075-0-40513200-1415593217_thumb.jpg

Edited by Landyy
  • 1 month later...
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 8 years later...

wow crazy how time flew by and life got busy.Qualified in my field of work, travelled the world ( including jdm land) & matured up etc. I was just 19 when i bought my 33, reading back i can see how excited i was! now 28 still excited but rational! kept the 33 till 2020,plenty of events attended and i enjoyed that car, met and made alot of friends, been to world time attack, gtr festival,racewars,tokyo autosalon, snowy mountains 1,000 & plenty of other events. Bought a 32 gtr back in 2016 that car ended up making 600whp on e85 did powercruise and was a solid street car, ultmately threw a rod (typical rb26 stuff). Sold the 33 to finish off my 32 gtr build, Nitto 3.2 stoker kit cnc ported head, samsonas rs90, precision 7675, emtron ecu,mechanical fuel pump aiming for 1200+8sec. Gtr build isnt far off  being done. Cant thank everyone enough for the replies, the little knowledge helped me alot to venture into other things. Now i can pull out an engine, pull it apart and put it all back into a car etc. I'll do a final post for the R33 with photos before i sold it. If you would like to follow the gtr build its on insta under 90s_hero_32. The car scene has changed alot, everyone is car enthusiast apparently & you must respect them even with a junk build filled replicas, china spooly boy. SAU keeps the egos down compared to other socials. 

IMG_0107.JPG

IMG_0944.JPG

gtr33.jpg

gtr.jpg

  • Like 2

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...