Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, struggling to find some infomation about putting 3.5 or there abouts diff ratios in my GTR diff. So story goes I have a R32 GTR rear diff in my 180sx with a 2 speed glide with a KAZZ 2 way diff center fitted. It currently has 4.11 stock gearingit and im wanting to put around the 3.5/3.6 in it. I have access to a R34 GTR V-SPEC active LSD diff which is 3.5 ratio. Now my question is will the crown wheel and pinion from that fit into my R32 GTR diff? Or any other infomation about going to a lower diff ratio would be MUCH appreciated

Thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/426467-changing-gtr-rear-diff-ratios/
Share on other sites

ahh good question....not sure.

I do know the 34gtr front diff gears do not fit in the 33/34 casing/sump, but I am not sure about the rear.

Can you get the diff casing as well as the centre?

You sure about that Duncan? You have written 34GTR front diff doesn't fit in the 33/34 casing - surely it will fit in the 34 casing? I have an R34GTR front diff waiting to go in my R33 sump and have just been looking out for an R34 non V spec rear diff to go with it - I know some R34 GTRs over here have put R33 diffs front and rear to lower the gearing so I have always assumed that the reverse was possible.

I think there is a good chance it won't fit. The Nismo GT-Pro diff price list expressly says that their diffs do not suit the active LSD types. That would suggest to me that there is a lack of commonality between the pumpkins and the CW&P sets.

People who have swapped non-active diffs into V-specs have generally put the whole diff in, case and all, yeah?

It would seem obvious to me that if the OP has access to the V-spec diff, that he should obtain it, take it apart and see if the CW&P will bolt to another R200 centre (surely there's one lying around that you can access). If it will do that, then it will fit your diff too. Oh, unless there's also some difference in nose length or whatever that might also cause trouble, but you should also be able to check into that upon dismantling the diffs.

  • Like 1

You sure about that Duncan? You have written 34GTR front diff doesn't fit in the 33/34 casing - surely it will fit in the 34 casing? I have an R34GTR front diff waiting to go in my R33 sump and have just been looking out for an R34 non V spec rear diff to go with it - I know some R34 GTRs over here have put R33 diffs front and rear to lower the gearing so I have always assumed that the reverse was possible.

You know, there are so many wrong things in my post that maybe I should stop drinking and typing. The correct statement is:

r32/r33 ratios (4.4 and 4.1) will not fit in the r34 front diff casing (3.5).

I know you've said it has been done, but they must have either modified the casing or used the 32/33 casing/sump (they bolt on the block fine). The 32/33 crown wheel/centre is too large for the 34 casing.

People who have swapped non-active diffs into V-specs have generally put the whole diff in, case and all, yeah?

Correct :)

Although it's more then point that Nismo do not make a GT Pro to fit a Vspec A-LSD... So it requires a swap out with a non-Vspec.

At least that's with a R33.

Correct :)

Although it's more then point that Nismo do not make a GT Pro to fit a Vspec A-LSD... So it requires a swap out with a non-Vspec.

At least that's with a R33.

I just did this conversion two weeks ago. I also needed shafts AND my V spec bolt pattern did not line up with the flanges that Nismo supploed in the kit. Both were a 6 bolt pattern but not the same size.

How sure are you on this? I bought a brand new R34 GTR sump/diff and was going to fit my crown wheel and pinion and lsd centre from my R32 GTR front diff into it.

I had no idea that the casings were different between models

You know, there are so many wrong things in my post that maybe I should stop drinking and typing. The correct statement is:

r32/r33 ratios (4.4 and 4.1) will not fit in the r34 front diff casing (3.5).

I know you've said it has been done, but they must have either modified the casing or used the 32/33 casing/sump (they bolt on the block fine). The 32/33 crown wheel/centre is too large for the 34 casing.

Yep that is exactly what I tried. The casings are different.

I have just done a search and the part numbers for R32 and R34 GTR front sump/diff casings are the same (3842003V00).

I might give fitting it a go and I'll report back with how it goes

Please do report what you find - I have a diff swap planned and would like to know how you get on!

I have just done a search and the part numbers for R32 and R34 GTR front sump/diff casings are the same (3842003V00).

I might give fitting it a go and I'll report back with how it goes

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok thanks..that was my second question if i can somehow bypass this even with Nistune(that is all i have right now...aparat from stock ECU. So with some aftemarket it can by "bypassed" or make it work?  I know there is Link or Haltech (mainly used). We have ECUmaster here so i will gather some info about it.
    • Yes. You will need to get the original boost sensor and wire it in. That is.... if you plan to use a stock ECU - even a Nistuned ECU. The Nissan ECU will not operate correctly without it connected. And yes, it will do annoying stuff like you are experiencing. You will almost certainly be better off with some aftermarket ECU, than trying to hunt down rare sensors.
    • Ok so ABS/TCS is "not" the problem. Yeah i know now about the ABS with Nistune(i told that to the Nistune guy) but iam not 100% why or why i dont have ABS. ABS cube is in the engine (always has been) but i had braked couple of times rly hard and brakes just locked and scream. Does all Skylines have ABS cube? That boost sensor https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/367633-wtb-r34-gtt-turbo-pressure-sensor-pics-inside/ Is this it? I need to ask but i have a picture of engine bay and i do not see that (100% is not in that place) If i do not have this the car can do what mine is?(cutting around 4000 rpm) Here is the pic of my engine bay(only one i have) BUT i think i dont have that cuz loom was used from my RB20DE NEO and i know (obviously) that it does not have boost control or any wire to that...) so maybe that is the problem? (i dont know for 100% if that car where the engine is from had that)...but i dont have the loom from that
    • I'm with you here. It's either loom has an issue, OR, injectors are not functioning properly. It could even be they're just constantly dribbling, hence the wet, but not firing.
    • Depending on how long the car sat it is very possible for injectors to be stuck open or closed, I'd get them cleaned and flow tested. Other than that, obviously when the loom changes and the car doesn't start any more....the loom is suspect so some tracing / comparing may be required
×
×
  • Create New...