Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, new at all this turbo stuff, got an rb20det gtst. Bought a turbo with 45v3 on front and 21u on exhaust housing I believe from research it's an VG30 turbo (45v3).

The ceramic wheel has snapped off and I need a whole assembly for middle. Is this a waste of time chasing parts? What cost is involved in getting another assembly? Also I can't get the f**ker out cause it free spins where the ceramic has snapped clean off :( any help would be great.

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/426639-need-help-with-turbo/
Share on other sites

Buy another one. The one you have is only good for highflowing. See the Hypergear thread for an example of what you could do with it.

By the way, I'm not sure whether the 45v3 compressor housing means it's VG30 or not (had thought they were 45V4), but the 21U exhaust housing is RB25 (R33). The VG30s had an OP6 turbine housing. The OP6 is the desirable one, the 21U is a bit smaller - although on an RB20 it would be fine.

Thanks mate.

Missleman cheers but I already have rb20det in my 32. Thanks for all your help guys!

Penisman, I mean Missileman :) was meant to say there's a cheap stock turbo for your motor on eBay

hi guys I have a rb30 series 2 motor in my vl commodore and am wanting to turbo it just wondering what advice people can give me on what to do and where to get the parts from im doing it to a budget so any help would be great thanks :no:

Edited by Trenta44

It is a bargain. What are you? A moron? Less than a grand to take a (blown and therefore useless) stock turbo to a better than 250rwkW responsive bolt on turbo is good value.

I swear, you are not looking like good value yourself.

a brand new watercooled billet ball bearing turbo will cost u not much more and have a greater power output, but the highflow option is good if on a tight budget

a brand new watercooled billet ball bearing turbo will cost u not much more and have a greater power output, but the highflow option is good if on a tight budget

This is yet another example of a time where if you knew anything (in this case about Hypergear turbos) you could have saved yourself looking like a fool by simply not posting the above tripe.

Fact: The suitable brand new reputable brand equivalent turbos cost about twice what a HG highflow costs. We're talking Garret here or possibly FP or precision, not Kando.

Fact: the HG highflow is pretty much just as good. And billet.

And yet again I have had to deliberately click to show your hidden post so I can see what sort of wrongness you are posting for the poor OP to get confused about.

he didn't say reputable brand, and if this guys budget is fixing a dead turbo why wouldn't he use a kando?

if you have no money replace it with a stocker, but seriously with turbos your better off getting a new one, or a off the shelf re-con'd HiFlow one, else you will end up shooting yourself in the foot.

  • Like 1

Fact: the HG highflow is pretty much just as good. And billet.

Fact: his ceramic wheel can't be replaced, so how do u get billet from that is rather odd!

Fact: to say a vg30 highflow will be "just as good" as a GTX or or HTA is beyond me, theres no way the highflow HG will match the flow output of the GTX, it will make heaps in the top end)

As I sad b4, go the highflow if your on a tightbudget, but if you're thinking long term power, then better of holding off and putting your money into something thats gona get the job done with ease, as well as having more reliable core etc

Thanx, non night

truth is kandos turbos have questionable service

truth is you can still buys ceramic turbos http://www.nissanparts.cc/catalog/?section=1060

truth is hyperger remanufacture stock turbos with billet compressor wheels with excellent service and a low price

truth is once someone is on your ignore list never ever respond to their trolls

hi guys I have a rb30 series 2 motor in my vl commodore and am wanting to turbo it just wondering what advice people can give me on what to do and where to get the parts from im doing it to a budget so any help would be great thanks :no:

motor out, RB25DET stocker in, cheapest way to do it :)

  • Like 1

Why would you want to replace the ceramic wheel? Its the weak point

HG (as far as I know) will replace the turbine wheel and shaft assembly with a steel item and bore the housing out etc. There is quite a bit he can do with the stock turbo, im just not sure the limits of the 21U and OP6 off the top of my head. Its a good option on a tighter budget. Even an all new HG turbo is just over $1000 depending on what you want. And believe me when I say this, because im coming from a much bigger brand turbo then Kando, the service that Stao (HG) provides is worth ever dollar you pay. Having local and helpful support is a great thing to have

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
    • What sold me on Trailer Park Boys is this scene: Great stuff, just stay clear from the new Netflix production.
×
×
  • Create New...