Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, new at all this turbo stuff, got an rb20det gtst. Bought a turbo with 45v3 on front and 21u on exhaust housing I believe from research it's an VG30 turbo (45v3).

The ceramic wheel has snapped off and I need a whole assembly for middle. Is this a waste of time chasing parts? What cost is involved in getting another assembly? Also I can't get the f**ker out cause it free spins where the ceramic has snapped clean off :( any help would be great.

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/426639-need-help-with-turbo/
Share on other sites

Buy another one. The one you have is only good for highflowing. See the Hypergear thread for an example of what you could do with it.

By the way, I'm not sure whether the 45v3 compressor housing means it's VG30 or not (had thought they were 45V4), but the 21U exhaust housing is RB25 (R33). The VG30s had an OP6 turbine housing. The OP6 is the desirable one, the 21U is a bit smaller - although on an RB20 it would be fine.

Thanks mate.

Missleman cheers but I already have rb20det in my 32. Thanks for all your help guys!

Penisman, I mean Missileman :) was meant to say there's a cheap stock turbo for your motor on eBay

hi guys I have a rb30 series 2 motor in my vl commodore and am wanting to turbo it just wondering what advice people can give me on what to do and where to get the parts from im doing it to a budget so any help would be great thanks :no:

Edited by Trenta44

It is a bargain. What are you? A moron? Less than a grand to take a (blown and therefore useless) stock turbo to a better than 250rwkW responsive bolt on turbo is good value.

I swear, you are not looking like good value yourself.

a brand new watercooled billet ball bearing turbo will cost u not much more and have a greater power output, but the highflow option is good if on a tight budget

a brand new watercooled billet ball bearing turbo will cost u not much more and have a greater power output, but the highflow option is good if on a tight budget

This is yet another example of a time where if you knew anything (in this case about Hypergear turbos) you could have saved yourself looking like a fool by simply not posting the above tripe.

Fact: The suitable brand new reputable brand equivalent turbos cost about twice what a HG highflow costs. We're talking Garret here or possibly FP or precision, not Kando.

Fact: the HG highflow is pretty much just as good. And billet.

And yet again I have had to deliberately click to show your hidden post so I can see what sort of wrongness you are posting for the poor OP to get confused about.

he didn't say reputable brand, and if this guys budget is fixing a dead turbo why wouldn't he use a kando?

if you have no money replace it with a stocker, but seriously with turbos your better off getting a new one, or a off the shelf re-con'd HiFlow one, else you will end up shooting yourself in the foot.

  • Like 1

Fact: the HG highflow is pretty much just as good. And billet.

Fact: his ceramic wheel can't be replaced, so how do u get billet from that is rather odd!

Fact: to say a vg30 highflow will be "just as good" as a GTX or or HTA is beyond me, theres no way the highflow HG will match the flow output of the GTX, it will make heaps in the top end)

As I sad b4, go the highflow if your on a tightbudget, but if you're thinking long term power, then better of holding off and putting your money into something thats gona get the job done with ease, as well as having more reliable core etc

Thanx, non night

truth is kandos turbos have questionable service

truth is you can still buys ceramic turbos http://www.nissanparts.cc/catalog/?section=1060

truth is hyperger remanufacture stock turbos with billet compressor wheels with excellent service and a low price

truth is once someone is on your ignore list never ever respond to their trolls

hi guys I have a rb30 series 2 motor in my vl commodore and am wanting to turbo it just wondering what advice people can give me on what to do and where to get the parts from im doing it to a budget so any help would be great thanks :no:

motor out, RB25DET stocker in, cheapest way to do it :)

  • Like 1

Why would you want to replace the ceramic wheel? Its the weak point

HG (as far as I know) will replace the turbine wheel and shaft assembly with a steel item and bore the housing out etc. There is quite a bit he can do with the stock turbo, im just not sure the limits of the 21U and OP6 off the top of my head. Its a good option on a tighter budget. Even an all new HG turbo is just over $1000 depending on what you want. And believe me when I say this, because im coming from a much bigger brand turbo then Kando, the service that Stao (HG) provides is worth ever dollar you pay. Having local and helpful support is a great thing to have

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nah its a server spammer thing  Although, now that I manually approve all the accounts I can probably loosen up some of the restrictions.  
    • Thread bump, again! Although, no bad news this time. Posting for the sake of possible root cause. Basically, I rebuilt it (mostly stock), installed Haltech + sensors, had it running fine on new ECU.  Still not really understanding why it cracked pistons last time. Got to tuners, and while checking timing, noticed +-10deg of timing scatter while revving. Changed CAS, and it was rock solid. While not definitive, can't imagine seeing 20+ psi with that amount of scatter would be a good thing. Also glad I found something.   Bit more of a run down; Carried out a stock rebuild, a set of stock pistons, out of a spare bottom end. Everything stock apart from head studs and oil restrictors. (so I can pretend I didn't let the Nissan out, ha.) Armed with the measuring gear and FSM, set about doing overhaul. Oil restrictors as per oil control thread for a RB25, stock oil pump, drifting. Head drain/vent from rear of head, to passenger side of sump above oil level. Two dash 10 vent lines from drivers side of sump (unused atm) Hi octane style cam cover breather kit Splash covers over last 2 cam caps. Both breather lines from cam covers to vented to atmosphere catch can, not plumbed back into sump (wanted to see what it was actually breathing). Got it run in (did about a 1000km) no to low boost scenario, As I had questions over old ECU setup. Installed haltech +sensors for flex Retune on E85 (finding CAS Issue along the way), made 300rwkw at 20psi, out of wastegate. Did a drift day the next day (yes, it was a big weekend!) and was checking catch can throughout the day, ZERO blowby. I mean nothing. Lines from cam covers are not even wet. Done a bunch of street driving, spirited and catch can is still dry. Early days I guess, but pretty happy so far. Also now run 10w60, up from the 10w40 that I used to run. Oil pressure is significantly better, especially when hot (as you would expect)      
    • Thanks buddy. I thought it was a server storage thing. 🤣
    • Perfect! Thanks for this, both look like great options!
×
×
  • Create New...