New Rods And Pistons

[rig136]

So, long story short, my NEO has the death rattles. Sounds like a pile of hatred. so I have a new engine lined up and I want to build my old one if it is salvageable. My question is, Is it worth going to forged rods for wanting to pull something like 300 odd kw? I may have plans to do more in the future but for now that is my goal output. I have found this kit from spool and heard some good things about their products. Im currently running a stock engine with a GTX3076R fmic, bosch 040 and a nistune which im getting rid of hopefuly soon and going Haltech. Bring on 2 step. So mainly looking for feedback on this kit and weather its worth the money.

Probably worth mentioning that I'm running arp head studs and a cometic MLS gasket which may or may not fit if I need to oversize the bores. I'm also planning on doing the oil restrictor mod if i can find some clear info on it aswell as the crank sleeve oil pump thing and possibly an oil pump. My build thread is in my sig if you wanna know more

[Joshbigt62r]

Neo rods are same as rb26 rods and are proven for 400kw atw's.. Other wise eagle rods are only $500 these days. But standard rods with new rod bolts are more than enough. N1 oil pump atleast. Or use your old one with a set of gears in it with a crank collar. You should be at 300kw at ease with a gtx3076. I also suggest you do some reading before you ask simple questions like this that's been spoke about 50 times before.

Lock thread.

[Adriano]

i would figure out whats wrong with the old motor before ordering anything

[discoPumpkin]

"death rattles" = bearings

[Gerg_R31]

Unless your going over 6000rpm then factory rods and rod bolts will do the job fine

if you are going over 6000rpm, then get a set of nitto rods, a lot stronger and about $50 - $100 more

[discoPumpkin]

what person runs a GTX3076R and doesn't go over 6000rpm

[rig136]

Yeah. Definitely gonna pull down the old engine first and figure out what's wrong. Also the redline was shifted to about 7800 so well over 6000. Who stocks nitto rods? Also does anyone know of a thread with clear info on the oil restrictive mod? The best I've found is on some site called mr bizzle.

[GTSBoy]

You don't need rods. You were told in the first response that your rods are good for more power than you are aiming for.

Even better, if you spent a couple of hours prepping the rods you'd make them even stronger and not spend money buying stuff you don't need.

Young people of today probably don't even know that it is possible to work on rods to improve them.

[Ben C34]

how much power were you making? surely you are already at or over 300kw ?

[Gerg_R31]

What a lot of people don't know is power out put has nothing to do with rods, its the rpm,

rods and more often rod bolts stretch at high rpm, this is where bearings spin as they loose their bearing crush

GTSBoy is right with people buying stuff that they don't actually need, a set of arp rod bolts around $150, then shot peening followed by a close and hone big ends to strengthen rods, but for not much more you can buy after market rods

to add, precision, spool, eagle manly etc all made in same place, they just sell in bulk to different wholesalers

[MrStabby]

What a lot of people don't know is power out put has nothing to do with rods, its the rpm,

rods and more often rod bolts stretch at high rpm, this is where bearings spin as they loose their bearing crush

GTSBoy is right with people buying stuff that they don't actually need, a set of arp rod bolts around $150, then shot peening followed by a close and hone big ends to strengthen rods, but for not much more you can buy after market rods

to add, precision, spool, eagle manly etc all made in same place, they just sell in bulk to different wholesalers

Do any new rods require prepping? or is the quality out of the factory good enough? IIRC a number of years back one builder said the quality control of some of the chinese stuff wasnt good enough and they need some prepping.

Also, given your point about RPM, doesnt that also imply that rod and piston weight will have a great effect on the stresses and therefore on bearing crush?

[discoPumpkin]

how much power were you making? surely you are already at or over 300kw ?

yep, #@34GeeTeeTee makes 390rwkw @28 PSI running HTA3076 on a 6boost man'y with E85 - stock internals, 150 000kms

Edited June 9, 2013 by discoPumpkin

[Gerg_R31]

Mrstabby - your right about some cheaper stuff that has a "that will do" attitude during manufacturing processes

yup extra reciprocating weight and cylinder pressures (including spikes from detonation) can also put extra stress on the crank, rod bolts and main bolts

I usually find Nissan rb rods have around 0.006" plus bearing crush, which is a decent amount for high rpms

Bearings will also spin from heat fatigue where they loose their bearing spread (which is that firm fit you get from putting the bearing shell in)

All the fun of pushing power/rev limits of motors

[boostn0199]

In my opinion no point waste your time on building a motor for 300kw stock are more than capable. This is how my internally stock rb25 has been treated for the last 2.5years probably about twice a month in temperatures up to 40degrees and lives above 7000rpm all day and still going strong @ 320kw.

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=4586414267910&set=vb.1518650511&type=3&theater

[StevenCJR31]

yep! have to agree with a lot of the above

its tensile loads that kill engines more so than compressive loads

[R31Nismoid]

I've run prepped stock GTR rods to 8500rpm for years @ 360-370rwkw, stock crank and stock head. It all works if built right.

No issues if you use ARP Rod bolts, you're fine. Plenty I know have gone over 400rwkw same setup, motorsport use @ sustainted high RPM.

That said, aftermarket rods these days are a lot cheaper than they were 4-5 years ago.

[SiR_RB]

well yeh that's the thing you can get a nice set of H beam rods for $700 ie nitto h beam

not realy worth putting ARP bolts on stock rods, then get them close and honed etc

[KiwiRS4T]

rig136, on 09 Jun 2013 - 11:34, said:

Yeah. Definitely gonna pull down the old engine first and figure out what's wrong. Also the redline was shifted to about 7800 so well over 6000. Who stocks nitto rods? Also does anyone know of a thread with clear info on the oil restrictive mod? The best I've found is on some site called mr bizzle.

If you can't be bothered reading the whole thread just read the first few and last few pages:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/110680-oil-control-in-rbs-for-circuit-drag-or-drift/?hl=sk%20oil%20control

[rig136]

Thanks for the link #KiwiRS4T Will give it a read. I've decided to go the spool kit. Im getting more into track days and entering in the snowy mountains 1000 again this year. Last year I blew my head gasket and probably started this whole mess. Im keen to go there and make some good times this year. and hopefully have a car that I can drive home again at the end of the meet.