Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Looks awesome Glenn, glad to see you're getting stuck into it again!

I'll have to drop around for a look soon.

The Torana hatch is definitely a shape that can be made look very nice. Big arse flares are certainly a good start to that!

Started extending one of the front flares, thought I would try the tape and bog trick.

Cut the bottom off the flare and screwed both parts to the guard.

IMGP2976_resize_zpsl9i1vl9u.jpg

Put masking tape across the two.

IMGP2977_resize_zpsi4z87efj.jpg

Mixed up some bog and towelled over the tape and also cut some tig filler rod that I pushed into the bog to give it some extra support.

IMGP2978_resize_zps1jeezlhq.jpg

After the bog was dry I remover the flare and fibreglassed the inside.

IMGP2980_resize_zps8ymrjruz.jpg

Still needs a lot of work but should come up ok.

IMGP2982_resize_zpss96ilcfz.jpg

Got the other side flares done and put it on the ground to see how it looks.

This is with no springs sitting on the bump stops to check clearances.

IMGP3005_resize_zpsztdg0tji.jpg

IMGP3003_resize_zpssqvypsee.jpg

This is at standard ride height, will probably lower it about 20mm.

IMGP3000_resize_zpsknvqcp99.jpg

IMGP2999_resize_zpsq3o07h4m.jpg

  • Like 4

Decided to try and for Currie Enterprises Johnny Joints to the front caster rods since the rubbers are flogged out.

I think these will be ok considering they are used in the suspension of 3 ton rock crawlers and the engineer is happy with them because of the urethane bush.

It's a pity it wasn't 0.4mm bigger in diameter then it could have been pressed in and not have to weld it.

IMGP3014_zpsj5ga3ko3.jpg

IMGP3015_zpsnxaqh3e6.jpg

Tapped a new thread for the grease nipple through the castor rod and lined it up with the grease nipple hole in the johnny joint then welded it on both sides.

IMGP3016_zpsihofv541.jpg

Also dropped the motor, turbo and dump pipe back in to see if the brake line will clear and be far enough away from the exhaust.

IMGP3020_zpsrhey1dx5.jpg

  • Like 4
  • 2 weeks later...

Started filling in the gap from cutting the body to clear the tyres, because I've had to cut so high I had to weld the two inner panels together first.

The fun of welding through tar, body deadener and paint.

IMGP3035_resize_zpsmndikqmm.jpg

Little bit of rust in the lower 1/4 so easier to just cut the whole section out as this is covered by the flare.

IMGP3037_resize_zpsm701kxiz.jpg

One side done.

IMGP3039_resize_zps4d5hsqm0.jpg

I always liked the drop tank style look on the old SLR5000 Toranas.

If you wanted to keep that style, maybe you could speak to Julian at Aftermarket Industries about a fuel cell setup that replicates that and incorporates baffling and a surge tank internally.

He does amazing work and comes highly recommended for all sorts of fueling work.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeh I think i'll message an old contact i had for ages that manages his own tyre shop now.. n tell him what i want n work with him before ordering..  Got this 17x9 +30 Driftteks on 245/45/17 PSR Drag Radials on the rear.. They fit well - for your reference in future - Rear guards  have been lipped in & minimal to non flaring of the rear Gaurds.    
    • If only it were that easy! I also needed to remove seats, shocks, brake calipers, send my car through a fence, and use measuring and ended up guessing because I didn't remove seats, shocks and brake calipers. It can be hard sometimes Can be a little more complex than 'just measure' if you want to truly measure the entire wheel through all of it's suspension travel. But if you aren't going for every last mm then yeah, you can check the space you currently have and guesstimate.
    • If you own a car, and it has wheels on it, and you know the offset of those wheels, and you have a measuring device, you have everything you need to work out if other wheels will fit.
    • Will this fit? but they are staggered set - RAYS 57DR SEMI GLOSS BLACK 18x8.5 +37 | 18x9.5 +38 5-114.3 STAGGERED SET   or If no go could just get a set 4's wheels of 18x8.5 +37 5-114.3 - would i run 8.5's 235s up front n 245's at the back if I do?   Thanks.        
    • Put a clamp on your return line. I have a feeling it's sucking air, and introducing bubbles to your fuel. With a lot of fuel, less problematic. I'd honestly be redoing all the lines in the tank and clamps on everything.   Also, you've given two different answers to the same question: Asked if being followed by the police you could get down to use the whole tank, you said yes you could, so long as you keep off boost. However, you then followed this up that free revving, it would also cause the issues. I'm doubting free revving is enough to make any noticeable boost on what is likely a decent sized turbo.   So now I have to ask, can you actually drive it lightly and use all the fuel, or does it break up even free revving? Also, have you put a fuel pressure gauge on it? Can you hear the pump change noise at all when you're having this issue?
×
×
  • Create New...