Jump to content
SAU Community

Cost of engine removal?

ABuSD

By ABuSD,
in Victoria

 Share

Recommended Posts

ABuSD Veteran

ABuSD

Posted
Posted

Hey guys just wondering if any1 knows the rough cost of removing an engine and replacing it with another one? My engines dead in my 33. Deano, Leewah, im looking in your direction!!

Also its an RB25DET thats getting taken out of the GTS-t, but is there more costs involved to fit an RB26? ( i smells a project car coming on!!......And its all you SAU guys that are bad influences fault :P )

Cheers fellas!

:P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/42835-cost-of-engine-removal/
Share on other sites
meshmesh Mentor

meshmesh

Posted
Posted
ey bro..

u want the whole car gone?? or just the motor...

either way .. i can do both..

PM me.. my cousin in newport can set u up good!

Sorry Haboob! Wulla, Well-eh.. that is so funny! and then to read you sign/avatar =lebvile "altona/newport"?? NO WAY! I DONT BELIEVE IT! You Cuz in Newport.. His name isn't Nik Nik Adma Fik :rant:

I don't think he wants to do an Insurance job, habib! I think he wants to remove/replace his motor :)

ABuSD Veteran

ABuSD

Posted
  • Author
Posted

on the mark MeshMesh, even if i was just chucking in another RB25 it shouldnt be $1000 should it?? Seems a bit expensive, i thought maybe around th $500 mark.

R32Big_Boy, i would love to do that, but i have REALLY bad luck :P (actually i think its only with THIS car, the f*kn jynx!)

PS: I know there will be other costs, like new dump pipes need to be made and cooler piping and computer, im just after a rough cost on just dumping and fitting.

Thanks on the responses fellas! :):D:)

GTRgeoff Grand Master

GTRgeoff

Posted
Posted

Organise a weekend meet at my place......bring labour and skyline lovers and I reckon I have the gear (hoist, welders, bench grinders and drills etc) to get it on the road. Haven't pulled an engine in weeks....getting withdrawals. Only cost to you is your parts.......I'm free.

Make sure Ash comes so we can plagarise off his fit...hell he can organise a cruise to my place that is like a used car yard most of the time anyway. In South morang, just past Mill Park.

Rowdyr32 Mentor

Rowdyr32

Posted
Posted

You could easy change an engine in less then a day your self. Pulled out my engine about a hour and a halfs work, chopped up the sump on the gtr engine and had it sitting in the engine bay in around a full day. Its a piece of piss! Making the new piping for the gtr engine was a bit of a hasle thou. Take up geoff's offer!

funkymonkey Grand Master

funkymonkey

Posted
Posted

geoff... i have an R32, an RB25, PowerFC and a TD06 kit and soon an intercooler kit and oil cooler kit... and workshop manuals for both R33 and R32 in japanese (I can translate). I'm willing to take you up on the offer. I'm 3 blocks away from South Morang (hehe edge of Mill Park). How does July/August sound to you? I wanna learn during the process as well, so I'm willing to do most of the work, just need some space to disassemble and the equipment.

sorry for the Hijack

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted
Make sure Ash comes so we can plagarise off his fit...hell he can organise a cruise to my place that is like a used car yard most of the time anyway. In South morang, just past Mill Park.

me? plagarise what?

The japs did my conversion in Japan. I know nothing.

But yer, i can do a cruise :) w000000000000000000000t

But yeah, $1000 to pull, put back a motor... of the SAME type.

if your gonig RB26 it'll cost you a lot more.

GTRgeoff Grand Master

GTRgeoff

Posted
Posted

Shan

sounds like a good plan. I'll keep the garage clear. I have no car work to do cos the missus won't let me get a PFC until the tax cheque is in. :whip: So I refuse to race until then and the car is choking on too much fuel with the GTR pump.

Ash

just want to plagarise of your fittings instead of reinventing the whole thing.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • perry_r33
      R34 GTR Vspec Garage Sale - All must go!

      By perry_r33 · Posted

      Pm sent 
    • Robot
      Skyline v36 350GT sedan hunting on idle

      By Robot · Posted

      Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...