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r34 parts will be minimal to be honest mate. I have a BNR34 V-Spec rear carbon diffuser and that's about it for the moment. And it's not something I need to get rid of quickly to clear space

Guys here's the series 3 brand new xenons. Bought them for my own car that's now for sale so no longer needed. $1700 firm. Bank transfer or cash only. Postage extra if required

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Hey Guys,

couple more things

BCNR33 GT-R china/ebay spec carbon fibre diffuser. Bit scratched up as per pics. $200 ono

Original Japanese c/f hood. Was originally on my old BNR32, I removed and sold the car with an oem hood. Quality - excellent, fitment - excellent, overall condition excellent with a few little spots of the clear coat that have some crazing as per pics. This hood weighs in at around 7kg - nice and light and of course, functional. $900ono

BNR32 bootlid with wing. badges removed. some paint damage as per pics. $200ono

BNR32 BOVS $90

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  • 2 weeks later...

Get out of it Damo, spend your money on bigger turbo kits ;) haha

But i only just put it in there.... and i havent even driven it yet.

if you see this and still have the blow of valves or another set at a reasonable price PM me aaron. if you see it before December DECA ill get Steveo to pick it up

  • 2 weeks later...



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    • @Haggerty this is your red flag. In MAP based ECU's the Manifold pressure X RPM calculation is how the engine knows it is actually...running/going through ANY load. You are confusing the term 'base map' with your base VE/Fuel table. When most people say 'base map' they mean the stock entire tune shipped with the ECU, hopefully aimed at a specific car/setup to use as a base for beginning to tune your specific car. Haltech has a lot of documentation (or at least they used to, I expect it to be better now). Read it voraciously.
    • I saw you mention this earlier and it raised a red flag, but I couldn't believe it was real. Yes, the vacuum signal should vary. It is the one and only load signal from the engine to the ECU, and it MUST vary. It is either not connected or is badly f**ked up in some way.
    • @Haggerty you still haven't answered my question.  Many things you are saying do not make sense for someone who can tune, yet I would not expect someone who cannot tune to be playing with the things in the ECU that you are.  This process would be a lot quicker to figure out if we can remove user error from the equation. 
    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
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