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Interesting. If this thread is correct, they've tarted up a $5000 accident grade example. Nice of them not to wind back the auction kilometres though I suppose...

dodgyimports, how far can you look back? My car was imported a few years ago. It would be interesting to see the history.

Edited by BuuBox

Interesting. If this thread is correct, they've tarted up a $5000 accident grade example. Nice of them not to wind back the auction kilometres though I suppose...

dodgyimports, how far can you look back? My car was imported a few years ago. It would be interesting to see the history.

Chances are they're wound back pre-auction.

Edward Lee's...up to their usual stupid ploys. Couldn't even leave the damn floor mats in the car for nearly $21,000

dodgyimports, how far can you look back? My car was imported a few years ago. It would be interesting to see the history.

Not very far for vehicles that come via auction. Some dealers generally don't buy at auction tho and in a few cases I can go back significantly further. PM me your VIN/chassis # plus who you bought it through and i'll have a go.

That said its highly unlikely I can find anything that isn't freshly imported. If you're happy to part with a bit of cash tho you can use the excellent services of JOC:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_ipg=&_from=&_nkw=&_armrs=1&_ssn=japaneseoc

Assuming your vehicle was imported after the 'shaken' registration process was introduced in Japan JOC will be able to provide you with an official japanese government document with dated recorded odometer readings at registration intervals when the vehicle was in Japan.

Buy one with a straight chassis (look underneath), minimal rust and good interior. Ignore kms as it would be wound back. Engine/gearbox will be getting tired by then. $15k for a decent one + spare money for rebuild/replacement.

Mine has crushed jack points, some rough paint and dings/dents thanks to retards in car parks. If I didn't check underneath (didn't really care as long as it was straight), it would have sold.

A legit 50k km car will, by then, easily cost $25k+ and will be hard to find. You'll probably have to look at AUDM ones with more than double the price tag.

People want immac GT-R's for $15k. What do you expect from a 20 year old Japanese supercar which has been imported and changed hands a few times?

Also, if I'm going to stay away from Edward Lee's, where else should I look to get a nice r32 which is actually what is presented without any bullshit?...

Very low Km and absolutely mint R32 GTR brought in last month and complied by the Iron Chef - JLM connection for Chris.

The driver's seat is in such new condition that Chris is about to get a Bride and preserve the OEM seat.

I couldn't even find fingernail scratches under the driver's door handle or wear on the pedals/steering wheel.

Very low Km and absolutely mint R32 GTR brought in last month and complied by the Iron Chef - JLM connection for Chris.

The driver's seat is in such new condition that Chris is about to get a Bride and preserve the OEM seat.

I couldn't even find fingernail scratches under the driver's door handle or wear on the pedals/steering wheel.

And that's the sort of car you would be willing to pay a premium for.

If the dealers could at least be upfront with the car there wouldn't be this whole dodgy/shady nature about them.

If the front bumper was changed, admit it. If that's the extent of the change then the rest of the car may still be very good and therefore still attain a decent price. Although being said there are many uses of "IF" in there.

Just inspect everything.

Very low Km and absolutely mint R32 GTR brought in last month and complied by the Iron Chef - JLM connection for Chris.

The driver's seat is in such new condition that Chris is about to get a Bride and preserve the OEM seat.

I couldn't even find fingernail scratches under the driver's door handle or wear on the pedals/steering wheel.

Exactly what Terry said. I would strongly recommend the import path if you have the time and money. I admit that I was very lucky but there are a lot more options in Japan then here.

Although you will pay a premium (I'd guess around $5K) I often keep an eye on what these guys have in stock;

www.best-r.com

If you are after a nice car in the long run don't try to save a little cash up front. Get the best car that you can afford. If I had the money and storage this would be it!

http://is-group.jp/skyline/011535.html

That car is NOT suitable for driving and modifying though. I reaslise how stupid that may sound but as soon as you do either to any exent the value plummets.

Very low Km and absolutely mint R32 GTR brought in last month and complied by the Iron Chef - JLM connection for Chris.

The driver's seat is in such new condition that Chris is about to get a Bride and preserve the OEM seat.

I couldn't even find fingernail scratches under the driver's door handle or wear on the pedals/steering wheel.

:woot: now THIS is "absolutely mint" :worship:

Charcoal grey Bride is sitting next to me in the office today. It is a little embarrasing though when a box around 1.6M high arrives at work from Japan and says "Bride"

I'm doing everything possible to maintain the car and its originality. To the point of not wearing my wedding ring when I drive it! :rolleyes:

People want immac GT-R's for $15k. What do you expect from a 20 year old Japanese supercar which has been imported and changed hands a few times?

People will always want to find a bargain - it's human nature. This doesn't excuse a dealer's dodgy tactics - watch the youtube clip where the dealer says at least twice in reference to the car "accident free". It's one thing for a car dealer to omit information about a car unless specifically asked - it is entirely different for them to flat out lie.

Anyway I think this thread has gone on a bit of a tangent (albeit very cool tangent) since Jonah is looking for a GTR he can use as a daily. I would still recommend using a reputable importer like some mentioned in this thread, as you can be sure you will have full visibility and proper paperwork so that you don't get roped into scams like this.

Edited by dodgyimports

I have never bought a car from a dealer as I always found a better deal privately. But I do agree, as a business, if you're dodgy-ing up your work, you don't deserve to be in business. For the uninformed, this usually kills the reputation of the car. This is why everyone thinks BNR32 will grenade its motor if you floor it once. Dodgy car, unknown history, bought from dodgy yard/person.

My relatively rough car has been going great for what it is. I bought it knowing it had issues, still doesn't stop me from enjoying it (stupid HICAS and AFMs).

  • Like 1

Remove both.

- HICAS be cheap

- AFM's not so cheap (good ECU)

My relatively rough car has been going great for what it is. I bought it knowing it had issues, still doesn't stop me from enjoying it (stupid HICAS and AFMs).

Yeah I haven't had the time/money to do so yet. I have good condition Nismo AFMs and a Nistune to throw in. Eco tune should bring the fuel usage down to <11L/100km :D. I believe I have a grounding/electrical problem in the arse of the car somewhere, so once that's fixed I think HICAS should be good (works fine when electrics aren't trying to kill me).

Don't know why your looking into this 2+ years before you can legally drive one..

Basically my uncle owned a 500hp ish black on black r33 gtr which he sold a whil back after he got married. Since the first time i sat in that car i was inlove with the sound of rb26s and loved the look of all skylines. :P

that's a good point, i had my N/A V35 for a while but since going for drives in my mates 500hp R33 GTR V-Spec, other mates stock R34 GTR i am also in love with the RB26. I know for sure i want a v spec r34 in white when i can legally drive one, but i don't choose to post about it because i think if it happens it happens. Circumstances change all the time, who knows i might have to buy a family car when i'm off my P's too..

  • Like 1

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