HOWTO: RB25DET High Boost mode with standard solenoid

[nsta]

hey ppl, good news, got my controller working finally, got my stock sparkies regapped to .6 from 1.1.... no dramas at all now, missing has gone completely it seems

very happy

cheers, and the boost tap is actually working now since my missing has gone away:)

[axelmasok]

Hmmm, this solenoid is normally blocked and at 4500rpm unblocks the hose. I took the whole solenoid off and threw it in a box, joined the two hoses together and it all works fine. I don't see any problems in what I did and made crazy wire cutting a waste of time. Can anyone tell me why this might be a bad idea?

[nsta]

im curious as well, does the solenoid(factory) even need to be there now?, and what about the wiring?

[NICKS33]

the solinoid doesnt need to be there if u have another boost controller....my mates got a bleed valve and just simply unpluged the solinoid and ditched it...car runs the same without it pluged in...and has done for a year on 12psi no problems...

[axelmasok]

the solinoid doesnt need to be there if u have another boost controller....my mates got a bleed valve and just simply unpluged the solinoid and ditched it...car runs the same without it pluged in...and has done for a year on 12psi no problems...

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

I say ditch it even if you don't have a boost controller. My GTST is standard and I removed the solenoid and joined the pipes. Went for a quick sprint up Mnt Buffalo for a test (14min to the top junction from pay booth) and found my hidden bottom to mid end power that has been robbed from me for years. I drove 7 hrs back to Sydney and have seen no side effects at all. Again, if anyone has any theory why my mod is a bad idea V's grounding out the black wire let me know.

[nsta]

interesting read, how easy is it to remove the factory solenoid, and whats the purpose of the wiring thats connected to it, does that not function after getting a boost tap?

[axelmasok]

interesting read, how easy is it to remove the factory solenoid, and whats the purpose of the wiring thats connected to it, does that not function after getting a boost tap?

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

In summary, the solenoid has two air tubes plugged into it and a connector with two wires - black and white. White is +12vdc and black is ground or earth. At around 4500rpm the computer completes the ground circuit so then the solenoid activates. The solenoid has 1 or 2 bolts and a small bracket I think, easy to take off. To test it yourself pull it off, blow into one of the holes in it - no air passes. Give it 12vdc from a battery and "click" it lets air through. Very easy concept. Hose blocked = ~5PSI. Hose unblocked = ~7PSI.

[nsta]

cool as long as its safe ill take it off, since i wont be using it any time soon, how do you unhooked the wiring though and whats the wiring connected to????

Edited January 17, 2006 by nsta

[axelmasok]

cool as long as its safe ill take it off, since i wont be using it any time soon, how do you unhooked the wiring though and whats the wiring connected to????

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

From the solenoid there is probably 10cm of wire to a joining plug. Just disconnect the plug. The two wires run to the computer or at least 1 does anyway. There's no magic here, only 2 wires, the computer doesn't care and most likely won't know the difference. Just tuck the left oer plug somewhere out of sight.

[ricsvtr]

I say ditch it even if you don't have a boost controller. My GTST is standard and I removed the solenoid and joined the pipes. Went for a quick sprint up Mnt Buffalo for a test (14min to the top junction from pay booth) and found my hidden bottom to mid end power that has been robbed from me for years. I drove 7 hrs back to Sydney and have seen no side effects at all. Again, if anyone has any theory why my mod is a bad idea V's grounding out the black wire let me know.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Im pretty sure if u dont have some sort of boost controller in place the boost will be limited to 5psi. im quite sure this is what the actuator spring is set for (5psi) and the original solenoid bleeds some air out to get it to 7psi when it is open. i had an after market boost controller in place which was completely closed (which is the same as just joining the pipes) and my car was running 5psi.

[dezz]

did this the other day....not sure about it being a 5min job however...maybe without the airbox in the way, or if you get your 2 year old sister to do it for you....but I got it done and its much better than the factory 2 stage shit

[ross80]

I did this yesterday afternoon after reading it here.

It took me about 10 minutes (no air box, or filter at the moment). I earthed my black wire out on the brcket that my hks air filter sits on usually.

My car has a nasty exhaust leak at the moment, so I couldnt rev it too hard. However a quick spin around the block and i noticed that boost definantly builds a bit quicker, especially in the lower gears, and seems to hold on boost a fair bit better.

Quick question, when i purchase a after market boost controler, do i return the black wire to its previous home?

[jim80]

couldn't notice any difference, have i done it right

Edited March 5, 2006 by jim80

[jim80]

Sorry about the crazy colour wires but yeah the red wire is permently earthing the black wire. No aftermarket boost controller

Edited March 7, 2006 by jim80

[Kennedy]

Only the standard boost guage

My best advise would be to put a switch on it so you can adjust on the fly and feel the difference.

Purchase one of these

It's pretty basic. There are 3 points. Make point 1 a ground, point 2 and 3 the wire that you already snipped. Feed it through to your dash and mount it on the dash (there is a good spot just below the clock). Looks really stealthy coz of the colour. An RTA defect inpsection didn't spot it after 40 mins on my car. There's some really good tutorials on how to dismantle your dash on here if you need some help on it.

Sam

[Manwh0re]

I did this mod this morning.

All I did was splice into the existing ground wire (black) and attatched a wire to a ground point.

Would this still work or do I have to cut the black wire tottaly ?

Ive got a R34 GTT. I can't really notice any difference .. doesn't hit full boost till about 4000-4500k.

Edited March 10, 2006 by Manwh0re

[ross80]

my car had a nasty exhaust leak when i tried this.

It was really boosting up at all before i done this. After i done it it was going up to 5pd at low revs.

leak was gasket between manifold and turbo

[justin911]

nah doesnt sound like its working then...

also you should be able to tell the differance on the stock gauge without any issues... just remember where 5psi is... and you should be able to tell when it goes above that..

Ive got a R34 GTT. I can't really notice any difference .. doesn't hit full boost till about 4000-4500k.

[jim80]

I think that's the story. Mine feels like it might be spooling slightly quicker, but this could just be because i am concentrating on exactly when it does hit boost.

[justin911]

u might wana read over the 11 pages again

not sure what the big issuel is.... cut the black wire... connect it to a bolt so its grounded...

put foot on accelerator... watch us gauge shows 7psi before you get to 4500rpm.....

I guess it wont work in *everyones* car but from what i've read in the last 11 pages.. looks like its worked on 90% of them...

so is the majority of people stating that it made no differance to their car?