Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

10 should be fine. Most guys hit R&R around (13-15) on average. Mines on 10 now and its fine. (Also have a/m fuel pump and fuel pressure regulator though) It would be safe to upgrade your pump if you wanna run 10Psi.

i dont get the 3 way switch.. ?

heres how i see it.. instead of just joinin a wire from the black one to a ground(not choppin the wire off).. y not have a switch in the ground so you can control it.. ie.. when switch is in on position, it is grounded, thus the hi boost is always on... and when switch is in off position, the ecu thinks as if nothings happened and carries on with the 2 stage boost..

is the above not correct? :D

post-26556-1157799605.jpg

I think this is the info you are looking for..

There is another way to do this with exactly the same results. The only difference being that it is not visable inside the engine bay, or if wanting to use a switch can be done from inside the cabin. ( no running wires through the firewall)

Items required

wire ( different colors prefered)

Spade conectors

12 v 30amp changeover relay

on/off switch

Tools required

- wire cutters

- wire crimpers

Time taken about 30 min

This involves cutting wores directly from the ecu located in the passenger kickpanle. if you are not able to, or are not sure of which wire to cut, DONT do this!

1 - Remove passenger kickpanel

2 - on ECU locate plug second from bottom ( while it is still mounted in car)

3 - locate light green wire coming from this plug.

4 - cut wire

5 - install relay

Wiring for relay is:

30 - to green wire car side

87a - to green wire ECU side

87 - to pin 86 on this relay

85 - accessory 12v

86 - switch

6 - install switch

Wiring for on/off switch

pin 1 - to pin 86 of relay

pin 2 - earth

7 - reassemble car

8 - test drive

When the switch is in th ON position you will have high boost mode all the time, when the switch is off, it will run as a standard car ( hi/low boost mode)

Notes:

- Test car was a R33 series 2 - check wiring colors on other models before proceding

- Make sure all electrical connections are insulated

- make sure that all wiring is secured and cannot be damaged by normal operation of the car

yer i read that... BUT wouldnt just a switch be the easier way? i mean hook onto the black wire.. run it through the firewall and screw it somewhere near the kickpanel under teh steering wheel?

yer i read that... BUT wouldnt just a switch be the easier way? i mean hook onto the black wire.. run it through the firewall and screw it somewhere near the kickpanel under teh steering wheel?

Could work..let us know. My setup was very similar but used a 3 way which was mounted in the cabin.

Here is the switch i used from DS.

Fits perfetly into the removable slot behind the windscreen wiper.

post-22740-1157940339.jpg

What you can do is grab one of your airbox bolts (if airbox is removed) and earth the wire to the existing holes, thats what I did anyway and works fine. This is a great DIY mod, wish there were more that worked this well.

Morning Ray,

Wow this topic has taken off hasnt it!!!

Yep i had plans to but a 13 month old whirlwing hit the fridge. :P

Hopefully i will get to try it this weekend.

If not im just going to ground the black wire.

Cheers :)

I just did this mod (it was the black wire) and i could tell straight away, feels so much stronger down low. This is in a series 1 :rolleyes:

Funny thing is, i was at work and we had a sparky doing our securty system, he did pretty much all of it for me...and when i got back from a strap, he said he'd done it for 2 other 33's hahaha :P !

  • 5 weeks later...

Can someone please post some pics and a step by step as i found the first example a bit hard to understand.

Am i suppose to just cut the black wire and ground it? Where is the solinoid anyway?

Im very new to skylines so all input is appreciated.

CHEERS

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
    • What sold me on Trailer Park Boys is this scene: Great stuff, just stay clear from the new Netflix production.
×
×
  • Create New...