Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey SAU,

what sort of power can you get untill stock internals need to be modified on rb25det? Only reason i'm asking is my setup upopened would get me around 270-300kw on pump fuel, but i'm going e85/flex fuel now and that will give it more power and yeah just want to know.

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/429022-rb25det-how-safe-are-internals/
Share on other sites

Depends which RB25 and what supporting mods etc... Condition of the engine? How it's been treated? Intended use...

Go find the 300kw+ unopened thread which will answer all your questions and allow this Thread to be locked.

how much hard mileage has it done so far?

Mine? About 9000km... Including a close call with a lean out and also overheat (Haltech ECU protect stepped in luckily).

Well here's my setup

Garrett 3076r .82 rear housing

6boost manifold

50mm turbosmart wastegate

Front facing plenum

90mm tb

Sard 850cc injectors

450lph e85 pump -will have surge tank

Link g4 plug and play

Engine done about 120ks easy life, only reason I asked as I was going to use pump fuel but now going flex fuel/e85 and I will gain kw and will have over 300kw on a max of 17psi and wanted opinions on how long internals will last

I had a similar setup and maxed the turbo out... At that stage my engine had done 140000km and has had a rough life... Ran it on 360kw where it was thrashed...

It now has the HTA turbo running 390ish and has 149000km...

It's all in the tune! There is no magic number that will make your engine safe.

How much of a gain did you did from flex fuel? Okay hopefully when it gets tuned it's done right

About 30kw on low boost... We didn't tune pump 98 fuel on high boost though so no full boost comparison. But it's nice and responsive on ethanol, smells good too ;)

350 is about the safe limit, we have a few in the 400's but i would not recommend it.

on a R33 motor right? don't the ringlands let go? I know R34 RB25DET NEOs are built as well as tanks

Hey man to be honest ill tell you a little trick water meth injection if u can do that u can push it further on stock internals

Lolololol..... So you are trying to tell us you can increase the strength of the engine internals? You sir are brilliant!

No I'm saying you can push the internals a little further with water meth injection like less chance of detonation at higher boost.

You can do that with E85 too, its not new and its not a secret!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know why it happened and I’m embarrassed to say but I was testing the polarity of one of the led bulb to see which side was positive with a 12v battery and that’s when it decided to fry hoping I didn’t damage anything else
    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
×
×
  • Create New...