Jump to content
SAU Community

$$ Spun Rod Bearing In Fully Built Rb30 :(


ZT-R

Recommended Posts

only the one rod looks to have heat damage.

so, id say blocked oil feed to that rod.

then bearing shredded.

and those pieces have gone through the rest of the motor.

this has caused the damage to the other bearings.

seems like this would be possible.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The heat damage is consistent with running for a very long time after the bearing has suffered complete failure. You've had a temporary starvation of oil at some point. Every one of those bearings shows it. The mains are polished and the bigends definitely show it. The bearings for cyls 1 & 6 are going to be the worst because they are the last in line to get fed oil from the main gallery in the crankshaft. The mains don't suffer the hammering because there is minimal lateral loads unless a missfire or detonation occurs. That's why they are just polished.

The rest of the big end bearings partially survived because when oil supply was regained, they continued to be lubricated. 1 more second without oil and #6 would have looked like #1 does and another 3 seconds and the rest would look like #6 does now or worse.

There is only 0.0001" difference between what #6 looks like and what #4 & #5 look like. That's all it takes. The damage was done and then you continued to drive it for what looks like maybe 1000 miles. You probably didn't hear it due to exhaust noise and the fact you might have been relatively gentle on your new engine.

It's disconcerting that the oil pump hasn't failed. That would be an easy find. Are you sure there is no crack in the inner or outer gear? You have to look very closely (by the sounds of your descriptions you know what you're doing)

Also measure the outer gear in 6 places to make sure it's still round as well as the inner gear if you can.

I don't think this is going to be the cause though.

Any idea what clearances were run?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The only thing I did was put a few shims on the oil pump to back off some of the pressure. I had it down to 50 at idle and above 100 at 3200. Before it was idling at 80-90psi. Could that have done anything? I did that about 500 miles ago.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

you can put a shim (washer) under the head of the bolt and it will back it off.

Not a shim under the spring.

of course. Was a bit early in the morning for me!Such a shame to see the damage man. All the best.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i got a whole running rb30 for $50, kept the block and crank and recycled the rest

was once given a complete bottom end before 30s where done in GTRs and scraped the idea and binned the block

that is a sweeeeeet Z, would love to have one with a 2630 in it, mad skids

every thing that needs to be said has been about the damage, it def looks like oil supply issue where it be a air surge or not enough flow to the bottom end

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I agree it has been an oil supply problem then continuing to drive,

I supplied just a bare short block and had no input into anything else, such a shame for such a nice car and a forged bottom end.

There's a few things of concern I have seen in the pictures and I've been over everything with the owner in about 50 e-mails over the last few days and am more than happy to help get him going again,

Rob

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • OK so I just bidded $500 on an R33 GTS4 that no one seems to want. Waiting on a call from the agent to see if I won. 32 GTS4 is for sale. I can't deal with the temptation to mod it.
    • Might be there for work later in the year. Wouldn't mind catching up with you fellas - can't have too many beers, but will consume copious amounts of takoyaki while executing an asian squat on the side of the road while you blokes sort out your hangovers.
    • I know one example is a anecdote not data, but I'm running the same Aeroflow 525 at full voltage through a regular relay, and while I've had other fuel problems including melting the factory fuel hat, the pump itself has been fine for years. Of course, they aren't *that* expensive these days, you could swap in a new one and see if the issue is resolve. I think you had a previous thread about fuel problems, have you been monitoring and logging fuel pressure? Is there anything voltage related (for example does the voltage go up when the pressure goes down)
    • Slap a 460L into the car, send its mum.  
    • So last night pulling away from the lights, I lost power for about 1 second. Bit weird, but I kept driving... 5 minutes later the pump completely dies. When I tried to start the car, the pump won't even prime.  I left the car for about an hour, tried to start it and it all appeared fine. Pump primed, car started, got the fuel pressure I should have.... Start driving home, 5 minutes later it dies again. I'm stuck in a shit spot this time going up hill with a car right behind me, so I just let the car continue to turn over while praying to the fuel pump gods. After about 2 minutes of turning the engine over, the fuel pump came back to life and I got home (only about another 5 min away).  So I've been digging around online, it seems like the 525 fuel pumps really don't like to be run at 100% all the time. I've found quite a few examples online of people killing their Walbro 525 pumps within about a year of usage when they are run without PWM.  So, my pump is an Aeroflow 525 (AF49-1057) and I've been running it at 100% without PWM. I'm thinking the Aeroflow 525 didn't like being run at 100% and has burnt itself up.  I really am sick of dealing with fuel pump issues, my current thoughts are -  1. Use a Walbro 450 and run it without PWM. It seems like these pumps hold up pretty well to being run at 100% all the time. I only make about 350kw and can't see me making any more power any time soon so this is probably a fine option.  2. Get a Walbro 525, run it with PWM. I know doing this will annoy me as I feel like with only 350kw, its extra expense that I don't "need" and I'll be thinking the whole time while setting it up that I should have gone with option 1. I know I'll be happy with this option when its setup and running, its only the initial setup frustration and cost as an issue.  3. Get a Walbro BKS1001 brushless pump. This is the fu*k it I'm already going PWM, might as well go full retard. This option just seems better in every way, with the only downside being cost. But I don't know much about this pump so I could be wrong.  Happy to get everyone's thoughts before I go digging around in the fuel tank again. 
×
×
  • Create New...