Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Alright just want to hear about your experiences with shops. I've got a front bar from pulse autostyling but i didn't like their service/professionalism so i don't want to go back. I bought some skirts from a guy here and i need a rear bar also and then i need to get it all painted and fitted. Can anyone tell me of a shop which they liked or disliked just so i can keep a lookout. Was thinking of a company called NARZ www.autostyling.com.au also the one in BOX hill near station street is it J-auto concepts, i went there ages ago can't remember, and also zero sports in china town (all there fitting is in marybyrnong i think) zero is just a shop.

Also has any1 got any friends or is a panel beater that would like to give me a quote if i source the parts myself.

thanks guys.

Rom.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/42942-bodykit-shops-in-melb-revisited/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 45
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

You could try Makspeed 93185626

They made up an A piller gauge holder for me at half the price anyone else had them for. Some of the kits they had look pretty impressive.

Didnt makspeed change their name to Zero Sports in little bourke?

Anyways dont go to JR in box hill, had my front bar, skirts n pods painted there and they were absolutely c*ap.... paints kinda like peeled of the next day (i shit u not)

thanks for the heads up GT400-4 yes makspeed did change their name to zero. but little bourke is just a shop there install place is in marybyrnong which i think is still called makspeed. All this ambiguity and the fact that they changed names puts me off a little.

thanks for the heads up GT400-4 yes makspeed did change their name to zero. but little bourke is just a shop there install place is in marybyrnong which i think is still called makspeed. All this ambiguity and the fact that they changed names puts me off a little.

Zero's stuff are alright but a bit pricey, What I intend to do is go over to ICE and ask Nigel for recommendations, they have a mate maybe one of them Fangartist's that does panel beating and respraying.... you might wanna check them out!

what is fangartist's? was the quality of fibreglass any good at JR coz all i need is a rear bar or pods. If paint is crap i'll get my local panel shop to match the paint and paint the parts separately and install myself. I've got skirts that i bought off predator on these forums. Any1 bought off aresspeed in QLD b4? www.aresspeed.com.au i saw their rx7 in Autosalon mag and it lookd horn.

thanks for that Gojira i'll give them a call.

i've been to jetspeed a few times in south clayton. They always got that azn Biatch in the front and its as if they don't want customers the way they talk to you. So ****y it seems they don't want business. Also they don't have all the kits on their site, quite misleading, and i don't like any of their rear bars which is what i need.

If any1 is looking for a good panel beater, try SuperFinish, near the corner of south rd and warrigal rd Moorabbin. I picked my car up from there last night and I was VERY impressed. VERY friendly and professional service, and decent turnaround time.

I am very fussy when it comes to spray jobs and panel beating as I have done some myself in the past, and the job is flawless. Before I took it to them, I hung around and checked out the quality of the repairs done to other cars coming out, and every job was impressive.

They even touched up a few extra bits for no charge as they are perfectionists.

Price was reasonable (relative to quality of work) too... although I didn't pay a cent as my insurance company took care of it.

Anyway, 9553 1311 is the number, and speak to Greg or Con.... and tell em George with the Pearl Red R33 sent you

BTW: I am in no way affiliated with them, just a very happy customer...

what is fangartist's? was the quality of fibreglass any good at JR coz all i need is a rear bar or pods. If paint is crap i'll get my local panel shop to match the paint and paint the parts separately and install myself. I've got skirts that i bought off predator on these forums. Any1 bought off aresspeed in QLD b4? www.aresspeed.com.au i saw their rx7 in Autosalon mag and it lookd horn.  

thanks for that Gojira i'll give them a call.

hhhmmm.... quality wise i'll give it 5/10 and what are you after?? gtr rear pods? or a new rear bar.... possibly a 400r one?? just curious...

thanks on the boost i think i've heard of em. GT-400r i want a do luck rear bar or JUN rear bar. i don't really want 400r or GTR pods. There are these other pods i've seen once or twice but never seen for sale... i've attached photos of em any 1 know what they are??

I am just about to get a body kit from either MakSpeed or Jetspeed. Makspeed quoted me $1200 and Jetspeed $1400 for the same kit. Just wondering what your opinions would be on the quality of the products, I dont mind paying extra if Jetspeed has a better quality product. Any thoughts?

I am just about to get a body kit from either MakSpeed or Jetspeed. Makspeed quoted me $1200 and Jetspeed $1400 for the same kit. Just wondering what your opinions would be on the quality of the products, I dont mind paying extra if Jetspeed has a better quality product. Any thoughts?

If you want better quality parts, go to Makspeed. They did lots of nice bodykits, good fitment.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
    • When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
    • So I found this: https://www.efihardware.com/temperature-sensor-voltage-calculator I didn't know what the pullup resistor is. So I thought if I used my table of known values I could estimate it by putting a value into the pullup resistor, and this should line up with the voltages I had measured. Eventually I got this table out of it by using 210ohms as the pullup resistor. 180C 0.232V - Predicted 175C 0.254V - Predicted 170C 0.278V - Predicted 165C 0.305V - Predicted 160C 0.336V - Predicted 155C 0.369V - Predicted 150C 0.407V - Predicted 145C 0.448V - Predicted 140C 0.494V - Predicted 135C 0.545V - Predicted 130C 0.603V - Predicted 125C 0.668V - Predicted 120C 0.740V - Predicted 115C 0.817V - Predicted 110C 0.914V - Predicted 105C 1.023V - Predicted 100C 1.15V 90C 1.42V - Predicted 85C 1.59V 80C 1.74V 75C 1.94V 70C 2.10V 65C 2.33V 60C 2.56V 58C 2.68V 57C 2.70V 56C 2.74V 55C 2.78V 54C 2.80V 50C 2.98V 49C 3.06V 47C 3.18V 45C 3.23V 43C 3.36V 40C 3.51V 37C 3.67V 35C 3.75V 30C 4.00V As before, the formula in HPTuners is here: https://www.hptuners.com/documentation/files/VCM-Scanner/Content/vcm_scanner/defining_a_transform.htm?Highlight=defining a transform Specifically: In my case I used 50C and 150C, given the sensor is supposedly for that. Input 1 = 2.98V Output 1 = 50C Input 2 = 0.407V Output 2 = 150C (0.407-2.98) / (150-50) -2.573/100 = -0.02573 2.98/-0.02573 + 47.045 = 50 So the corresponding formula should be: (Input / -0.02573) + 47.045 = Output.   If someone can confirm my math it'd be great. Supposedly you can pick any two pairs of the data to make this formula.
    • Well this shows me the fuel pump relay is inside the base of the drivers A Pillar, and goes into the main power wire, and it connects to the ignition. The alarm is.... in the base of the drivers A Pillar. The issue is that I'm not getting 12v to the pump at ignition which tells me that relay isn't being triggered. AVS told me the immobiliser should be open until the ignition is active. So once ignition is active, the immobiliser relay should be telling that fuel pump relay to close which completes the circuit. But I'm not getting voltage at the relay in the rear triggered by the ECU, which leaves me back at the same assumption that that relay was never connected into the immobiliser. This is what I'm trying to verify, that my assumption is the most likely scenario and I'll go back to the alarm tech yet again that he needs to fix his work.      Here is the alarms wiring diagram, so my assumption is IM3A, IM3B, or both, aren't connected or improper. But this is all sealed up, with black wiring, and loomed  
×
×
  • Create New...