Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Alright just want to hear about your experiences with shops. I've got a front bar from pulse autostyling but i didn't like their service/professionalism so i don't want to go back. I bought some skirts from a guy here and i need a rear bar also and then i need to get it all painted and fitted. Can anyone tell me of a shop which they liked or disliked just so i can keep a lookout. Was thinking of a company called NARZ www.autostyling.com.au also the one in BOX hill near station street is it J-auto concepts, i went there ages ago can't remember, and also zero sports in china town (all there fitting is in marybyrnong i think) zero is just a shop.

Also has any1 got any friends or is a panel beater that would like to give me a quote if i source the parts myself.

thanks guys.

Rom.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/42942-bodykit-shops-in-melb-revisited/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 45
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

You could try Makspeed 93185626

They made up an A piller gauge holder for me at half the price anyone else had them for. Some of the kits they had look pretty impressive.

Didnt makspeed change their name to Zero Sports in little bourke?

Anyways dont go to JR in box hill, had my front bar, skirts n pods painted there and they were absolutely c*ap.... paints kinda like peeled of the next day (i shit u not)

thanks for the heads up GT400-4 yes makspeed did change their name to zero. but little bourke is just a shop there install place is in marybyrnong which i think is still called makspeed. All this ambiguity and the fact that they changed names puts me off a little.

thanks for the heads up GT400-4 yes makspeed did change their name to zero. but little bourke is just a shop there install place is in marybyrnong which i think is still called makspeed. All this ambiguity and the fact that they changed names puts me off a little.

Zero's stuff are alright but a bit pricey, What I intend to do is go over to ICE and ask Nigel for recommendations, they have a mate maybe one of them Fangartist's that does panel beating and respraying.... you might wanna check them out!

what is fangartist's? was the quality of fibreglass any good at JR coz all i need is a rear bar or pods. If paint is crap i'll get my local panel shop to match the paint and paint the parts separately and install myself. I've got skirts that i bought off predator on these forums. Any1 bought off aresspeed in QLD b4? www.aresspeed.com.au i saw their rx7 in Autosalon mag and it lookd horn.

thanks for that Gojira i'll give them a call.

i've been to jetspeed a few times in south clayton. They always got that azn Biatch in the front and its as if they don't want customers the way they talk to you. So ****y it seems they don't want business. Also they don't have all the kits on their site, quite misleading, and i don't like any of their rear bars which is what i need.

If any1 is looking for a good panel beater, try SuperFinish, near the corner of south rd and warrigal rd Moorabbin. I picked my car up from there last night and I was VERY impressed. VERY friendly and professional service, and decent turnaround time.

I am very fussy when it comes to spray jobs and panel beating as I have done some myself in the past, and the job is flawless. Before I took it to them, I hung around and checked out the quality of the repairs done to other cars coming out, and every job was impressive.

They even touched up a few extra bits for no charge as they are perfectionists.

Price was reasonable (relative to quality of work) too... although I didn't pay a cent as my insurance company took care of it.

Anyway, 9553 1311 is the number, and speak to Greg or Con.... and tell em George with the Pearl Red R33 sent you

BTW: I am in no way affiliated with them, just a very happy customer...

what is fangartist's? was the quality of fibreglass any good at JR coz all i need is a rear bar or pods. If paint is crap i'll get my local panel shop to match the paint and paint the parts separately and install myself. I've got skirts that i bought off predator on these forums. Any1 bought off aresspeed in QLD b4? www.aresspeed.com.au i saw their rx7 in Autosalon mag and it lookd horn.  

thanks for that Gojira i'll give them a call.

hhhmmm.... quality wise i'll give it 5/10 and what are you after?? gtr rear pods? or a new rear bar.... possibly a 400r one?? just curious...

thanks on the boost i think i've heard of em. GT-400r i want a do luck rear bar or JUN rear bar. i don't really want 400r or GTR pods. There are these other pods i've seen once or twice but never seen for sale... i've attached photos of em any 1 know what they are??

I am just about to get a body kit from either MakSpeed or Jetspeed. Makspeed quoted me $1200 and Jetspeed $1400 for the same kit. Just wondering what your opinions would be on the quality of the products, I dont mind paying extra if Jetspeed has a better quality product. Any thoughts?

I am just about to get a body kit from either MakSpeed or Jetspeed. Makspeed quoted me $1200 and Jetspeed $1400 for the same kit. Just wondering what your opinions would be on the quality of the products, I dont mind paying extra if Jetspeed has a better quality product. Any thoughts?

If you want better quality parts, go to Makspeed. They did lots of nice bodykits, good fitment.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The average previous owner for these cars were basically S-chassis owners in the US. Teenagers or teenager-adjacent. I often tell people that neglect is easier to fix than something that was actively "repaired" by previous owners.
    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
×
×
  • Create New...