Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

7's would be an absolute pig (no disrespect Piggaz!!) to drive.

Fine for a drag queen auto car that you can build boost on the line but useless to drive as a street or track car.

Less comp means you can throw more boost into it but at the sacrifice of off boost driveability.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/429590-rb2630/#findComment-6952331
Share on other sites

7's would be an absolute pig (no disrespect Piggaz!!) to drive.

Fine for a drag queen auto car that you can build boost on the line but useless to drive as a street or track car.

Less comp means you can throw more boost into it but at the sacrifice of off boost driveability.

pretty much this.

mine is pretty responsive, even off boost.

which is a good thing, because I have to wait a looooooong time for boost.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/429590-rb2630/#findComment-6952383
Share on other sites

7's would be an absolute pig (no disrespect Piggaz!!) to drive.

Fine for a drag queen auto car that you can build boost on the line but useless to drive as a street or track car.

Less comp means you can throw more boost into it but at the sacrifice of off boost driveability.

Errr? I'm asking why so low? I wouldn't want it that low. I wanted 9.3:1 in my own engine.

Edit. Oops, read out of context. Haha!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/429590-rb2630/#findComment-6952455
Share on other sites

Sensitive!!!

Continuing Lukes post, E85 is always going to be a challenge if it's your only fuel choice. Flex fuel is always a great option. 98 and taking it easy on cruises, E85 and cane it for track work.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/429590-rb2630/#findComment-6952471
Share on other sites

Yep, these were comp ratios that were from a time of (all that was available at the pump)low octane ULP and non intercooled motors :-(

Yeah good call and totally correct. Fuel was shite back in 1986! No premium or ultimate back then.

You need to work out what turbos you're running and what is the intended purpose of your car before you choose your comp. If you're running a massive single and focussing on drag racing or a HP dyno hero then go a bit lower comp and pump in huge boost. If you want a driveable street car or track car with good response and minimal lag out of corners then go a higher comp and smaller turbo/turbos.

Do what works for you, not what everyone else has done as we all have our own goals and uses for our cars!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/429590-rb2630/#findComment-6953949
Share on other sites

just getting some ideas input what they run wit cars , some say low or high comp - work shop says low but I would prefer some info from owners first how it drives ect.

42r 1.01 rear 3L block full race head 260inlet/270ex 10.25 lift powerglide

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/429590-rb2630/#findComment-6954213
Share on other sites

just getting some ideas input what they run wit cars , some say low or high comp - work shop says low but I would prefer some info from owners first how it drives ect.

42r 1.01 rear 3L block full race head 260inlet/270ex 10.25 lift powerglide

I have gt42 china, 26/30, 256 9.15 lift, 9.0:1, 4" turbo back zorst.

turbo is thrust bearing, so takes a while to kick in.

still driveable due to comp ratio.

6 speed box helps too. (manual)

but, as stated, what use?

track weapon?(guessing with glide).

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/429590-rb2630/#findComment-6954582
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
    • For race cars, this is one part where I find having the roll cage bar having gone through a hole in the floor better than the build it up on a ledge inside... The Merc I help on, the main hoop ends are marked on the car, and the jack is marked... Jack goes under a few inches and lifts one whole side of the car up... Removes that fight for long slim jacks for race car duties!   My biggest issue for the daily drivers I work on, is my jacks don't go high enough. The jacks start out on a few blocks, jack it up, then start a second jack under it on more blocks, and then I can get an axle stand under it. My axle stands are presently in use, and are nearly fully extended. The car is sitting with barely more than a cm of clearance to get the wheel off the studs! Sarah's Kluger is the same, as it has an ungodly amount of droop available in the suspension and a distinct lack of good jacking points!
    • Happy? Yep, my to do list is getting shorter and shorter. Either this light approaching is the end of the tunnel, or I'm about to be hit by a train... Ha ha ha   Also, Duncan isn't that far out of town that you need to make a multi day drive out of it. 😛
    • Sorry I meant that we are building the EH for a client.
    • LOL, when one "money pit" is never enough Noice, and excellent work mate
×
×
  • Create New...