Jump to content
SAU Community

Car Cutting Out Under Acceleration (Not Misfire) Any Ideas ?

Jay_stylz

By Jay_stylz,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

Jay_stylz Proficient

Jay_stylz

Posted
Posted

As I was driving home last night the car started doin. Some weird things :/ best way to explain it was the car went dead felt like it was about to stall couldn't accelerate at all wasn't miss firing was just going dead anyone got any idea wat it could be ? I was thinking coil packs ? Maybe afm ?

sleptema Proficient

sleptema

Posted
Posted

Pretty hard to tell without an accurate description... But yes it sounds like your coilpacks. If they are still OEM and done over 100k kms, with a little bit of moisture they tend to f**k out. When mine went, I had just washed my car, drove fine until I tried to give it shit, then it felt almost like boost cut, no power at all.

If it was doing it all the time, check your fuel pump/filter. Maybe you were starving it of fuel.

Jay_stylz Proficient

Jay_stylz

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Yeah they are standard coil packs it was real strange tho wasn't a misfire it was like it was a complete dead spot when I I pressed the accelerator it was like the car was off no miss nothing just a dead spot

sleptema Proficient

sleptema

Posted
Posted

So was it just a certain point in the power band or it just wouldn't accellerate at all ever? Or would it drive normally if you babyed it, and only 'died' when you tried to rev it a bit?

Yeah they are standard coil packs it was real strange tho wasn't a misfire it was like it was a complete dead spot when I I pressed the accelerator it was like the car was off no miss nothing just a dead spot

sleptema Proficient

sleptema

Posted
Posted

Alternator should provide all the voltage needed while car is running. Technically you could remove a battery once the car is started and not notice anything.

Check the links at the battery terminal

sleptema Proficient

sleptema

Posted
Posted (edited)

Maybe cam or crank angle sensor?

My vy did the same thing, only the engine stopped completely and I had to restart the car. No noise, no splutter - just died.

Turned out to be the distribution module underneath the coilpacks, which got the signal from the crank angle.

Edited by voncina
niZmO_Man Grand Master

niZmO_Man

Posted
Posted

Alternator should provide all the voltage needed while car is running. Technically you could remove a battery once the car is started and not notice anything.

There's a link for ECU there, pull that out and the engine will shut off. Happened to me on my R31 and R32. Don't know about the newer cars.

Yes you can pull the battery out, just remember where the alternator wire connects to.

sleptema Proficient

sleptema

Posted
Posted

Sorry, I wasn't aware of that wire. Disregard me then.

There's a link for ECU there, pull that out and the engine will shut off. Happened to me on my R31 and R32. Don't know about the newer cars.

Yes you can pull the battery out, just remember where the alternator wire connects to.

Jay_stylz Proficient

Jay_stylz

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Sounds the same as what mine is doing. Completely cuts out, like it cuts the ignition, could pump the throttle and nothing. Then it comes back running perfect like it never happened.

thats exactly wat its doing... i started it yesterday and it didnt miss a beat i have no idea what it could be :/ anyone have any ideas? could it be a an airflow meter ? coilpack?

Joshhr33 Apprentice

Joshhr33

Posted
Posted

same thing happend to mine , was the AFM. I swapped it over with a working one and has run fine ever since. I would start with the cheapest and easiest options first then move on to the harder and more expensive items.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • nash47
      Cas issue

      By nash47 · Posted

      Did and sync timing with light 
    • MBS206
      Cas issue

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Have you done the Ignition Sync Wizard in the AEM software?
    • MBS206
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Find out what RPM it was idling at with the IACV unplugged. It's very weird that the rpm didn't change at all, and then it stalled. When it stalls is it nearly like a switch off, like you've turned the engine off? Or is it more stutters and sputters and coughs to death over a few seconds? Or does the RPM just slowly keep going down and down? Have you done a test of trying to start it with the AFM unplugged? Does it still die?     If you Follow Josh's advice on using Nistune to check the voltages (which is a perfect method!) if you see anything out of wack voltage wise, THEN get the multimeter out and read the voltage directly at the sensor. If the two vary, then you're now looking for a wiring issue vs a sensor issue. So be aware, what the ECU sees, may not be what the sensor is actually saying too...
    • MBS206
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By MBS206 · Posted

      You very likely need to get it on a dyno and tune it. My assumption is, you've got an RB25DET tune in it, which has a different manifold, different injectors, and different cams as a minimum. What O2 sensor are you running?   When you say it runs extremely rich from idle all the way to redline, is this just free revving it you see that?
    • Haggerty
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Haggerty · Posted

      I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
×
×
  • Create New...