Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

As I was driving home last night the car started doin. Some weird things :/ best way to explain it was the car went dead felt like it was about to stall couldn't accelerate at all wasn't miss firing was just going dead anyone got any idea wat it could be ? I was thinking coil packs ? Maybe afm ?

Pretty hard to tell without an accurate description... But yes it sounds like your coilpacks. If they are still OEM and done over 100k kms, with a little bit of moisture they tend to f**k out. When mine went, I had just washed my car, drove fine until I tried to give it shit, then it felt almost like boost cut, no power at all.

If it was doing it all the time, check your fuel pump/filter. Maybe you were starving it of fuel.

Yeah they are standard coil packs it was real strange tho wasn't a misfire it was like it was a complete dead spot when I I pressed the accelerator it was like the car was off no miss nothing just a dead spot

So was it just a certain point in the power band or it just wouldn't accellerate at all ever? Or would it drive normally if you babyed it, and only 'died' when you tried to rev it a bit?

Yeah they are standard coil packs it was real strange tho wasn't a misfire it was like it was a complete dead spot when I I pressed the accelerator it was like the car was off no miss nothing just a dead spot

Alternator should provide all the voltage needed while car is running. Technically you could remove a battery once the car is started and not notice anything.

Check the links at the battery terminal

Maybe cam or crank angle sensor?

My vy did the same thing, only the engine stopped completely and I had to restart the car. No noise, no splutter - just died.

Turned out to be the distribution module underneath the coilpacks, which got the signal from the crank angle.

Edited by voncina

Alternator should provide all the voltage needed while car is running. Technically you could remove a battery once the car is started and not notice anything.

There's a link for ECU there, pull that out and the engine will shut off. Happened to me on my R31 and R32. Don't know about the newer cars.

Yes you can pull the battery out, just remember where the alternator wire connects to.

Sorry, I wasn't aware of that wire. Disregard me then.

There's a link for ECU there, pull that out and the engine will shut off. Happened to me on my R31 and R32. Don't know about the newer cars.

Yes you can pull the battery out, just remember where the alternator wire connects to.

Sounds the same as what mine is doing. Completely cuts out, like it cuts the ignition, could pump the throttle and nothing. Then it comes back running perfect like it never happened.

thats exactly wat its doing... i started it yesterday and it didnt miss a beat i have no idea what it could be :/ anyone have any ideas? could it be a an airflow meter ? coilpack?

same thing happend to mine , was the AFM. I swapped it over with a working one and has run fine ever since. I would start with the cheapest and easiest options first then move on to the harder and more expensive items.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @666DAN sorry to bring you and old thread.     I've got my de+t done and it's all running great other than 1 small issue.    Car has remained auto with the na auto and tcm, I've used a stagea ecu with. NIstune board and everything is great other than my gear selection on the dash. It illuminates park, reverse, neutral, 3rd and 2nd when selected . But nothing when in  drive or what gear your in when you pop it into tiptronic. I'm sure there is maybe 1 wire in the ecu plug I need to move to rectify this. Do ya have any ideas?     Cheers man
    • Well I recently changed my rear axles and was thinking if I bumped anything, I have been driving the car for a while now though... But it has been raining today so everything is wet under the wheel arches. Brakes feel fine and can't hear any of the metal screamers, I had a squeak coming from one of the handbrake drums but that seems to have gone away a while ago. I was going down a hill when it lit up and I did feel the abs bite for a second and question why it did it?
    • Correct. Um. I dunno. I haven't cared enough about the way that the NA cars work to know for sure. But..... The 33/34 turbo manual cars have an electronic speed sensor in the gearbox that outputs a +/- (ie, sawtooth AC) voltage signal. That is connected to the speedo. The speedo then outputs a 0-5v square wave (ie, PWM) signal that the ECU (and any other CU on the bus) sees. The speed sensor is NOT directly connected to the ECU. So here's the problem. Your new ECU expects to see the PWM signal, but must somehow be getting a direct signal from the diff speed sensor. Which would suggest that the wiring of the NA car is not the same as the turbo cars. I think you will need to spend some time with (hopefully the wiring diagram for the car) and a multimeter to see what is connected to what. Then, presuming I am correct**, you would then want to separate the ECU speed signal input from the rest of the car's wiring, and probably either buy a speed signal converter, or build one using an arduino (or similar). That would take in the speed sensor signal and output a scaled (and suitably rearranged) signal for the ECU. ** We shouldn't presume that I am correct here, because there might be something else crazy going on. I don't think you could convert the speedo to be fed from the gearbox sensor, because the pulse rate from that sensor is probably different to the diff sensor and then the speedo would read wrongly. And this also wouldn't fix the ECU's problem either, because the ECU doesn't want to see the gearbox signal direct either (assuming that they are all on the same wiring, for some odd NA related reason, see above caveat!) Does this help? Probably not. Can you make it work? Almost certainly. With the above work. You should buy a handheld oscilloscope from Aliexpress so that you can view these signals directly. Connect up the probes and drive the car. Show photos of the screen when drving at known speeds and connected to different places, and we'll see what we can learn about it.
    • Assuming your brake pads are not worn right down, I'd add a little brake fluid. Is there any sign of a brake fluid leak?
    • Hello all,  I need of some help. On my drive home my handbrake light lit up and started flashing. When I got home I checked my handbrake sensor under the centre console and nothing seemed out of the ordinary. I have scanned my car via the consult port, no codes shown. Checked my brake fluid as well which is half full. Tried unplugging the brake master but it didn't change anything. Thoughts on what it could be? The master float doesn't seem to be stuck. My car is an 1998 ER34 sedan GT. No hicas but has ABS Photos below 👇🏾 
×
×
  • Create New...