Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys just put in my bc br coilovers in my r33 and initially they were very bouncy. Springs are 6kg/mm F and 4kg/mm rear.

The dampening settings were 8clicks off full hard front and rear. Ive backed it off a bit 16F and 24R and it feels better.

Also they seemed to be running a heap of preload like 8mm. I made the springs just captive and that improved it still but ride is still bouncy.

Anyone know the recommended preload and or dampening seting i should be using for custom spring rates.

Cheers

Patrick

Pre-load shouldn't affect ride noticeably. Personally I wouldn't be confident that the damping settings on BC's are repeatable between sets - without some evidence.

Normally the term "bouncy" is used when the rebound is set too low and the car oscillates up and down after a bump. I think you must mean "harsh" or "stiff" if backing off the damping helped (the compression damping was too high).

I don't hold much hope that anyone will be able to help you over the internet. So maybe just play around and see what you like. Otherwise take them to a proper suspension place and get them set. But by then you'd be better off having sold them and bought Shockworks or MCA Blue.

The BC BR's aren't a bad set up for the dollars.

Why not start with them fully soft and work your way back from there?

You say they're too bouncy, yet you're running the rears 6 clicks out from full hard. :whistling:

You want to be running the damping as soft as you possibly can and still suit your driving style/roads.

set preload at 0 and the dampening to full soft front and back then adjust depending how it feels. If the car feels to soft increase front and rear a few clicks , if its understeering add a few clicks in rear and for oversteer add a few in front until you reach a good balance.

  • 4 weeks later...

What do you think of these coilovers? I'm looking at getting some for my r33 gt

Are you poor or can you afford decent suspension?

HAHAHAHA Wiggles, if you can afford a GTR you should hopefully be able to buy decent stuff. Go for Bilstein PSS9 (or just damper+spring combo) or else something better...like Ohlin's

HAHAHAHA Wiggles, if you can afford a GTR you should hopefully be able to buy decent stuff. Go for Bilstein PSS9 (or just damper+spring combo) or else something better...like Ohlin's

Eh just saw that they were there and cheaper seemed good enough. Will probably go for apexi n1 or similar

Got a link for the öhlins?

Edited by Wiggles

Nonononono. Don't just buy coilovers, especially Jap coilovers, without thinking about what they are made up out of. A set of B6 Bilstein dampers and Whiteline springs would be a better option than almost any set of coilovers if you're talking about a road car. You have to spend a lot on coilovers to get actual good quality stuff.

Which is why I mentioned for a road car. Track cars can and do need a lot of spring rate. But a lot of spring rate on a road car just makes for a bouncy bucket of shit. Australian roads, even the main roads in the suburbs, are just too rough. You can actually drive faster and get better handling if the tyres stay in contact with the road. </preaching to the converted>

I have nismo s tune on my car now, the reason I wanna change them in they lack adjustability. With the apexi they have a similar spring rate + the adjustability that the nismo lack.

My car is predominately a streeter but if I get the chance I take it on a track, I mean that's why we buy these cars right. To enjoy them?

Also I've been in a car with cusco 12/10 spring rates ant it was in no way comfy. My previous had tien super streets.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It is a kunfine Android screen . Does anyone know the wirering diagram of the fuga ??
    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
×
×
  • Create New...