Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

Just wondering if anyone could help me with a rather painful problem I have.

I have a 1993 R33 skyline that I had off the road for some time and am just trying to get it driveable to sell to a mate.

My problem is this: I bought 18 x 10's (15mm ofset) off an online store that said 'fits R33'. What they didnt say is 'fits R33 with considerable mods'.

After some research on this site, I see quite a few people have got them to fit, with guard rolling, camber arms and adjustable coilovers.

No worries, I figure I can make this work.

So I buy some coliovers off a forum that apparently came of an R33, but silly me, didnt ask what size wheels they had, and it was that long ago, that I no longer have his details to clarify.

Long story short, yesterday, I roll the rear driver side guard, fit the new (secondhand) coliover, and camber arm, then try fit the wheel. It simply does not fit onto the hub, as it interferes with guard. I tryed raking teh camber in and out, but to no avail.

The tyre is a 255/40/R18.

I then compared the suspension and the adj. coilover is a lot shorter that than the stocky, even when completely maxed out.

Has anyone else had these kinds of dilemnas?

Is it necesary to drop the bottom eye of the shock, fit the wheel to the hub and reassemble? (not very logical I know)

Any help would be greatly appreciated. (and yes I know im retarted, thanks for noticing, hindsight is a real bitch!)

Thanks in advance.

Regards,

Daniel

post-118412-0-33253400-1376969304_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/430537-18-x-10s-dont-fitplease-help/
Share on other sites

Well, yeah maybe the first order of business is to get the strut out of the car, put the wheel onto the hub and see if you can swing the whole lot up under the guard. I would fear that that offset at that width is going to be hard to fit.

The problem here is that it is not feasible to have to drop the strut in order to change a wheel in later use. That's a bullshit outcome.

Edited by GTSBoy

that's what I was afraid of. 18x10+15 is for a GTR.

I've never tried anything too aggressive on a GTST but the biggest I can think of is stock 33 GTR wheels which are 17x9

And here i am worrying about 18x9.5 +22 with any decent rubber lolz

I've never been a real fan of ruining the alignment and running too narrow (stretched) tyres just to fit a wheel.

If you are going to run 235s an 8" wheel is sufficient and will fit much better.

I've never been a real fan of ruining the alignment and running too narrow (stretched) tyres just to fit a wheel.

If you are going to run 235s an 8" wheel is sufficient and will fit much better.

But alas that's what the kids are doing these days!

I assume Daniel is chasing form > function.

hahah see I am getting old. I remember when Time Attack was called a Supersprint, and when Drift was the Next Big Thing and had a national series.

BTW is it also possible that the front shocks are for a GTR? Are they the same as GTST in R33s?

hahah see I am getting old. I remember when Time Attack was called a Supersprint, and when Drift was the Next Big Thing and had a national series.

BTW is it also possible that the front shocks are for a GTR? Are they the same as GTST in R33s?

Haha :P

Besides perhaps some ever so slight differences in lengths and/or valving the GTS-T and GT-R front shocks are the same.

fits easy, i ran 18x10+9 on the rear with a 235 tyre camber arms and rolled guards fronts where 9.5+13 same deal

why would you say it "fits easily" when the wheel you fitted to the front was 1" narrower, and had a dangerously narrow tyre on it?

it was not dangerously narrow and the front was a 225/45 from memory (while ago now) but its really not hard people have put much larger wheels on 33's the guards are generous with some work i had 0 scrubbing and i would be pretty certain my car was lower than this guys. He hasnt mentioned if its front or rear unless i missed something?

why would you say it "fits easily" when the wheel you fitted to the front was 1" narrower, and had a dangerously narrow tyre on it?

Duncan, only 0.5" narrower :P

A 235/40R18 is actually a legal tyre size to run on an 18x9.5" wheel here in Australia. By my calculations the 18x10 +15 will stick out only an extra ~5mm than Alex's 18x9.5 +13.

Edit: however if Alex was running a 225 tyre then (in theory) that should give him an extra ~5mm of tyre clearance and then the wheel clearance. Enough to reduce rubbing.

Either way 18x10 is too big for the front of a 33 GTS-T.

Edited by Hank Scorpio

here is how my car sat with the specs i listed - its 4mm difference of outer position between his 10+15 and 9.5+13

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/384951-r33-gtst/?p=6140134#entry6140134

i understand he may not want low / cambered etc but thats the only way they are gonna fit.

Edited by alr33x

here is yokohama's opinion on safe tyre sizes for a given rim size. http://www.yokohamatire.com/tires_101/customizing/rim_wheel_width/

that shows the narrowest 45 profile tyre to run on a 10" rim is 255....a long way from 225.

this discussion is kind of like someone saying "the thinner you are, the better you look". It is only true until it becomes dangerous. I have a real issue with people flippantly advising that something "fits fine" when it is downright dangerous.

OP said he has 255/40/18 which yoko show as the narrowest tyre you can run on a 10" rim.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
    • The roof is wrapped
    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
    • The downside of this is when you try to track the car, as soon as you hit ABS you get introduced to a unbled system. I want to avoid this. I do not want to bleed/flush/jack up the car twice just to bleed the f**kin car.
×
×
  • Create New...