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Was raising car up a bit today and noticed that my rear left camber arm is fouling on the coilover. I have attached pics.

I had the car wheel alignment done not too long ago and when they fixed the toe on the car rather than use the adjustable arms to fix it they adjusted it from the hicas lock bar instead. Is that what has caused this major misalignment compared to both sides? You can see the toe arms are adjusted very differently to eachother but the car drives straight.

I have looked and have not broken anything the car drives fine and I actually did a drift night when it was like this (I hadn't seen it) which makes me think it may actually clear more when weight is put on to the car but it's obviously something I would like to be correct.post-67189-0-17973800-1377572406_thumb.jpgpost-67189-0-70095300-1377572425_thumb.jpgpost-67189-0-23511100-1377572455_thumb.jpgpost-67189-0-33796100-1377572471_thumb.jpg

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I think you, and possibly the wheel alignment place, are getting confused about what arms do what. The rear toe arms, coming from the hicas rack, affect static toe. The rear camber arms affect static camber. The third arm, the traction rod/arm, affects dynamic toe/camber. Meaning, it affects how the toe/camber changes under compression and rebound.

What brand of arms are these? Surely there must be a massive amount of bump steer in the rear end? I suggest taking it to someone who knows what they are doing.

Just the arms that Option 1 Garage sells. Haven't ever had any issue with them till I noticed this. I just adjusted the traction rod and it has given me clearance from the coilover now so I believe my suspicions were correct.

Going by what White GTS-T has said it must mean they adjusted the static toe too much and didn't adjust the dynamic toe which was off between the two sides. I was there when they did the alignment and know that they did not touch the traction rods when they did the alignment

To concur with what has been posted above....look at the 2nd and 4th photos. The traction rod is much longer on the one that interferes. You can see how much "rusty" thread has been exposed by it being adjusted to a much longer length and this is almost certainly the reason why the camber arm is rubbing on the damper. Shorten it to about the same length as the other side and then get a wheel alignment, per above recommendations.

To concur with what has been posted above....look at the 2nd and 4th photos. The traction rod is much longer on the one that interferes. You can see how much "rusty" thread has been exposed by it being adjusted to a much longer length and this is almost certainly the reason why the camber arm is rubbing on the damper. Shorten it to about the same length as the other side and then get a wheel alignment, per above recommendations.

This is what I ended up doing. I will still hit up the alignment shop to have a look at all the arms and get them to adjust accordingly by a professional

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