Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just got another Invision kit from Autobarn. It works well but doesn't last forever - my lenses were ok for about a year or so with the car virtually always garaged.

Autobarn also sell the Meguiars kit for a few more $$. Would be great to know if there's any real difference between that, Invision and Glassylite.

Also, if anyone knows of a longer lasting UV sealant let us know.

I just recently used the invision stuff on the top of my M35 stagea headlights and to me it made it worse but it worked great on my V35 sedan lights. Ohwell excuse for some mint headlights from nipon land.

Glassylite i think will be my next buy when it happens.

  • 1 month later...

post-76251-0-54013000-1390795174_thumb.jpg

Thought I'd add my own experiences with these 3 products.

In 3rd place the Turtle Kit from Supercheap. It was the cheapest out of the 3, I liked the fact it told you approximately how long to sand/polish for, but there was a pityful amount of headlight sealer.

In 2nd position the Invision Kit from Repco. I bought it on special but it usually costs about $55. The Yellow X chemical (wtf is in it?!?!!?) that you are only allowed to leave on for about 10 seconds was amazing, it appeared to strip the yellow colour from the lens before my very eyes!!!! However i wasnt a fan of the 4 lots of wet and dry, partly because they'd chopped off the grit numbers off the back, but also because I prefered the sanding pads in both the Turtle and RainX Kit.

1st place goes to the RainX kit, middle off the pack for price, easy to follow instructions, plenty of sealer and polish. It has the same amount of lens lubricant as the Turtle Kit but you can just use water when it runs out.

Cheers

Simon

I used the Repco kit, comes with the UV sealant. Has everything you need, sandpaper, sanding block, masking tape, masking paper, cloth. The result speaks for itself. Was only $33 on special. Oh and it's not the Invision kit pictured in the post above, it's a repco self-branded one.

IMG-20140125-WA0003.jpg

IMG-20140125-WA0006.jpg

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 4 months later...

I used this one. Took me about an hour to do two cars in total and still plenty in the UV Protectant tin for another application to both.

2AQCAZ3.jpg

Hey mate, where did you get those Dupli-color restoration kits? I couldnt find them on ebay.

  • 6 months later...

I bought the meguiar kit, it did an okay job. I put alot of effort and care in to the restoration to try and get my moneys worth. In the end it was still a little frosted, but it looked to be from the inside. So far its been about 2 weeks, shall report when things start to degrade again.

  • 4 weeks later...

Seems like whichever kit is used the problem will return eventually. How about:

1 - Wet sand/polish

2 - spray with a clear coat

I don't see a downside with this?....Sure you would have to do a lot of masking but isn't it fairly permanent?

You would want to get a professional spraypainter to do it for you, most paint jobs I have done with a rattle can come out as a very slightly dimpled/uneven surface.. fine for a panel, but not what you want on a headlight.

I was over getting the hazy yellow headlights and re doing it every 6 months. In my experience the uv spray/sand kits will get cloudy again eventually and won't look good if you don't spray it in thin even coats

I used these guys:

http://www.uticolor.com.au/contact-nsw.html#Hills

Specifically the guy that does Blacktown

He did the usual sanding etc and then applied this sealant thing meant for paint. (He is a spray painter by trade) it's been over a year and the flakey or yellow stuff hasn't come back in the slightest.

He told me it would last and not one customer returned with the headlight yellowing and I was pretty skeptical.

I think it cost $60 a headlight or something along those lines and he was initially reluctant to come but as it was a small job but I pestered him. Nice guy, knows what he's doing.

I'm not exaggerate when I say it has not come back in the slightest. He's a magician.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Oh, forgot to add, A few months ago I was getting mixture codes and the car was using crap loads of fuel. You could smell the unburned fuel in the exhaust, it was crazy strong. Economy was over 17.5 l/100 and usually around 19. I smoked the engine and found a leaky CCV hose which I replaced and then I replaced my two pre cat O2 sensors, I also replaced the MAF. This fixed my mixture codes and improved my exonomy but I'm still 14 - 15 l/100 when pottering about town so something is still amiss. Throttle response is much better and it has more pep but I'd like to know why it's still so thirsty (and I'm hoping that whatever it is gives me a bit more poke).    
    • Car is on factory injectors/z32 maf/ q45 throttle body/ z32 ecu with nistune 
    • Hello all, currently finishing up a rb25 swap into my s14. Having issues with starting, car has spark (confirmed by pulling a plug and watching it spark), has fuel(confirmed by checking pulse/voltage at injectors all spark plugs are soaked in fuel). Car cranks over and pops into the exhaust with a heavy fuel smell but no attempt to start or run, I have torn the timing cover off and triple confirmed timing, turned the CAS in multiple spots both directions, attempted to start with coolant temp and maf unplugged, checked my fuel lines and made sure they weren’t backwards, checked voltage at cas/injectors/coilpacks, made sure all the grounds in the harness are connected and added a few grounding straps (1 from chassis to block, 1 from chassis to head, and 1 from chassis to igniter chip) I am getting stumped here. As a last ditch effort I made a full grounding harness tonight that’s going to run from the battery and add an extra ground from the battery onto the coil pack harness/igniter chip/ intake manifold/ Wiring specialties harness ground/ and alternator. I’m hoping maybe the grounding harness will fix it here but posting here to see if anyone has any other ideas on what else I can check. My fuel pressure is unknown right gauge will be here tomorrow.  IMG_3206.mov
    • yeah I was shocked when I checked my spare OEM on and as below that's how they come from Nissan. (side interesting note new NEO gearbox and replacement park lack the brass bush on the tips and its just all alloy) unsure about damage to the box currently back at 1110 to be pulled down/inspected and selector fork replaced as he built it previously and given the never before seen failure on his billet forks he is replacing it under warranty. He said he has used always OEM the keyway tab without issue for years so it could be an unlucky coincidence. I did talk to him about the sharp corners and stress concentration too. Re: hard shifts i got 7+ years out of the OEM one and the fork itself failed not the keyway. so could be bad luck as I said or an age thing + heat cycles in box and during fabrication of billet?
    • That's some really horrible design with the way it's cut/shaped! Is there much damage to the box that failed in? IE, new fork and you can go again, or is it a total rebuild again? Id be trying to build that piece from scratch, and getting some reliefs added in the corner to hopefully stop breakage, and then swapping boxes ASAP, and then doing the same to the currently good working box. I'm assuming hard shifts have not been friendly to it!
×
×
  • Create New...