Jump to content
SAU Community

Mugabetown - Whoretownin' At It's Worst.


Recommended Posts

or just try Bunnings. You'd be surprised what you can find as quality bolts at very good prices.

Thought you were a smart man Ants, then you go and say something like that.

"over $70k spent" and it has a cut and shut VLT plenum, surely another $900 on a cpc plenum wasn't that much of a stretch.

Also "tomei everything in the head" can't find anything RB30e related on the tomei website.

"over $70k spent" and it has a cut and shut VLT plenum, surely another $900 on a cpc plenum wasn't that much of a stretch.

Had noticed that too, but Plazmaman cut and shut there one too for rb25 - good bit of kit ask Scott. I'd just buy the JPC. Would only buy car like that conditional upon dyno check first.

Tomei: I think it must be adapted from a 26. Not sure would need to pull the rocker cover. However, look at the wiring deletion and attention to detail in the engine bay, I don't doubt he's spent the coin.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
    • You think its the AFM? I know its a common issues on R32s. I find it coincidental how this issue raised right after cleaning the fuel system. As everything except the fuel system was fine before. I tried running it with the IACV unplugged but did not notice a difference and still stalled. However, the RPM gauge is not in the cluster right now, so I will need to connect the laptop again and use Nistune to check the RPM. I will check this weekend.
×
×
  • Create New...