Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

you're kind of killing your own arguement there though, if "The effect of opening the BOV is felt everywhere in the inlet tract within a couple of milliseconds of it cracking open." then the assertion "The BOV should be physically located close to the throttle body" - a cpl of milliseconds, it wouldn't matter where you put it, and so you could mount it whereever was most convenient and any performance advantage would be negligible if we're talking a couple of milliseconds.

this is interesting... my thoughts...

After the throttle body is closed, the system (between throttle body and outlet of compressor) is a pressured closed system correct? in a pressured closed system of air, it shouldnt matter where the "hole" is located cos the idea is to relieve pressure. Just like how the BOV is on the pipe at a 90 deg angle. As long as u have a hole somewhere in the system, pressure will be lowered.

However, in addition, I think GTSBoy is also talking abt airflow and this disruption in momentum if the BOV is located far away from the point of direction reversal. :)

Damn... How bad is it?

What would you do differently?

The afm is going to detect the returning air as the bov return isn't facing the turbo compressor at all. It will more likely go back through the afm and cause reversion.

The hose is just wrong. I would have placed the bov and return so they faced each other, so there was only a short hose with little bending.

Why is the intake smaller than the turbo and afm? I would have done 3 inch or 80mm, not 2.5 inch.

The afm is going to detect the returning air as the bov return isn't facing the turbo compressor at all. It will more likely go back through the afm and cause reversion.

The hose is just wrong. I would have placed the bov and return so they faced each other, so there was only a short hose with little bending.

Why is the intake smaller than the turbo and afm? I would have done 3 inch or 80mm, not 2.5 inch.

Too be honest I've done nothing to the car other than change BOV's.

Everything is left the way I purchased it..

I couldn't make the hose point upwards to get a smaller hose because when my bonnet is closed there is NO room at all..

Smaller intake in front of the turbo.. Too be honest I didn't really notice it was smaller.. :/

This is gay.... Haha

So where my BOV is plumbed back.. It should be facing towards the turbo, so it doesn't go back through AFM?

Too be honest I've done nothing to the car other than change BOV's.

Everything is left the way I purchased it..

I couldn't make the hose point upwards to get a smaller hose because when my bonnet is closed there is NO room at all..

Smaller intake in front of the turbo.. Too be honest I didn't really notice it was smaller.. :/

This is gay.... Haha

So where my BOV is plumbed back.. It should be facing towards the turbo, so it doesn't go back through AFM?

Nothing the the engine**

And as Scotty mentioned, the bov return should be angled so it points at the turbo.

Okay.. More welding & money.. :(

I'll grab a metal intake pipe as big as my compressor wheel? 3"

Weld on a fitting pointing towards the turbo and that BOV can only point up or down.. I can't turn it any other way, Bleh.. Lol

Thanks heaps for helping a noob import owner out :D

Really? I have the same bov and it swivels around, just loosen the nut on the back of the 2 bolt adapter.

No nut on bottom of adaptor?

You don't mean the one on top?

Before I put it on I tried moving it and gave up because I thought it was fixed on.

this is interesting... my thoughts...

After the throttle body is closed, the system (between throttle body and outlet of compressor) is a pressured closed system correct? in a pressured closed system of air, it shouldnt matter where the "hole" is located cos the idea is to relieve pressure. Just like how the BOV is on the pipe at a 90 deg angle. As long as u have a hole somewhere in the system, pressure will be lowered.

However, in addition, I think GTSBoy is also talking abt airflow and this disruption in momentum if the BOV is located far away from the point of direction reversal. :)

I think what you are forgetting is that the air has mass, so having to turn around and go the other way isn't the best as going out a bov close to the throttle body.

No nut on bottom of adaptor?

You don't mean the one on top?

Before I put it on I tried moving it and gave up because I thought it was fixed on.

There is a two hole nut on the bottom, correct? (where the entry is) The top one is just the air fitting.

  • Like 1

I think what you are forgetting is that the air has mass, so having to turn around and go the other way isn't the best as going out a bov close to the throttle body.

actually no... didnt forget that thats why i mentioned abt momentum as well.. which is why i agree that it shd be closer to the throttle body. :)

Damn... How bad is it?

What would you do differently?

Move the BOV about 10cm upwards so the hose only needs to be 1/10th that length, also use a hose that is the right shape (curved) so that it isn't full of nasty curves. The reality is no matter how backward your setup is it will still work fine, hell no bov works fine, but if you are going to spend money doing it, don't make it look agricultural spec like that, looks embarrassing to look at!

Move the BOV about 10cm upwards so the hose only needs to be 1/10th that length, also use a hose that is the right shape (curved) so that it isn't full of nasty curves. The reality is no matter how backward your setup is it will still work fine, hell no bov works fine, but if you are going to spend money doing it, don't make it look agricultural spec like that, looks embarrassing to look at!

I know hahaha I have a new hose on now that isn't kinked.. But same problem just after it starts making boost (when the screamer is about to open up) it feel like the car shifts down a gear..

For example: The feeling when you go from 3rd to 2nd at about 70kms??

So when the car makes boost it gets faster? That sounds pretty normal dude lol

Or do you mean when its already on boost it feels like the torque drops off at redline? if so that is normal, you get a big whack of midrange torque with the stock turbo around 4-6k then the torque drops off by redline as the tiny turbo can't provide any extra air. If you want that feeling to redline you need a bigger turbo.

Edited by Rolls

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Fark what are the changes of that snapping like that, clean. Nek minnit, custom radiator goes in, with built in oil cooler like those discontinued PWR ones from yesterdeacades ago
    • I thought I'd do a write up on an auto transmission fluid change for a the nissan 7 speed Automatic. At some stage the genius engineers decided that the fluid in the trans was "for the life of the transmission", (which seems kind of self supporting to me) and removed the dip stick and fill tube (funnily enough there is still a casting for it). Anyway, for this job you do need 2 specialist tools in addition to regular hand tools, jack and good chassis stands. You need a way to pump fluid up to the transmission; I got one of these but there are plenty of other options: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/364584087070 Don't trust the generic listing though, it does not come with the required adapter for the Nissan 7 Speed. You need one of these, can't do the job without it: https://navarapart.com.au/product/genuine-nissan-patrol-y62-d23-np300-navara-re7-dipstick-fill-connector1 You need a heap of compatible transmission oil. Could be Nissan, could be anything else rated for Nissan Matic S. You need at least 10 litres, I had 15 to give it a better flush... Also, you need some biiig oil catch trays, at least one of these, or bigger if possible (volume was fine, size was very marginal): https://autobarn.com.au/ab/Autobarn-Category/Tools-%26-Garage/Specialty-Tools/Oil-Service/Garage-Tough-Oil-Drain-Pan-Black-16L---GT1068/p/TO03191 Finally, a measuring jug is very useful if your pump does not have volumes marked on it, I got a 6l one: https://www.repco.com.au/oils-fluids/fluid-accessories/measuring-jugs/penrite-measuring-jug-6l-pmj006/p/A5322648 Oh, and gloves.....this stuff is horrible (not as bad as diff oil, but getting there) ....First, jack up your car.....
    • So I mentioned the apprentice, @LachyK helped take the bonnet off. We just undid the nuts on the hinges and unclipped the gas struts, then pulled the bonnet back a little as the front was catching on the front bar.  I had a good look at everything today and have removed the rams, repaired/reset the hinges and bolted it back together like it never happened. I'll do a separate write up on the repair, and I also removed the poppers from the Fuga today too to save grief down the road.....as said above it is at least $5k to repair retail. I'm also happier about my ability to prepare a race car, and less happy about Nis-nault's engineering (I can hear @GTSBoy sAfrican Americaning) because the top hose of the radiator didn't slip off.......it snapped clean off. By practice I put the hose clamp hard up against the flare on a neck to make it least likely to ever move (thanks @Neil!). I guess that puts a little more pressure on the end of the pipe as it is further away from the rad, but still, that is pretty shit. I've put it back on for now as there was a fair bit of neck still there, but obviously there is no lip on the neck any more so I don't think I'll track it again until I have a new rad. Speaking of which....more research required. It looks like Koyo makes a standard size radiator in ally which I'll grab in the meantime, but I really want something thicker so might have to go custom in the medium term (ouch) Coolant still needs a refill and I have the pressure tester on it over night, but other than a wash down of the engine bay it seems alright. And @MBS206 noted something noisy on the front of the engine and I think I agree....time for a new accessory belt and tensioners I think.
    • our good friends at nismo make a diff for it, I have one (and a spare housing to put the centre in) on the way. https://www.nismo.co.jp/products/web_catalogue/lsd/mechanical_lsd_v37.html AMS also make a helical one, but I prefer mechanical for track use in 2wd (I do run a quaife in the front, but not rear of the R32)
×
×
  • Create New...