Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hmm... I have almost got all the parts I need for my build. One thing that ive been searching for ages for is a head gasket. What is everyone's opinion on high performance gaskets vs standard OEM ones? Anyone running big power with standard ones?

I want to save some $$$ but if its crucial to buy a Cometic or something ill just do that instead.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/431716-head-gaskets-vs-price/
Share on other sites

Most of the time head gaskets let go because of detonation.. so by having that as the weakest link then it could potentially save the piston/rings which would be next in line if something went wrong.

Kind of like running street tyres vs slicks at the track. The street tyres are the fusible link, they will only take so much force before they just start baking. If you run slicks and then all of a sudden your shafts/diff/clutch need to be able to take a whole lot more force otherwise they go – if that makes sense.

With that said, I bought a Cometic 3 layer

Edited by R34GTFOUR

I am hoping for around 450 - 500rwhp. I sent an email to spool imports regarding the shipping price for a cometic gasket. Prices on Ebay seem a little expensive and plus I dont know if they are genuine or not.

Edited by Gameboy

I am hoping for around 450 - 500rwhp. I sent an email to spool imports regarding the shipping price for a cometic gasket. Prices on Ebay seem a little expensive and plus I dont know if they are genuine or not.

I bought a cometic mls head gasket from Fabre Australia in Lakemba. I paid $300 for it but they were the only supplier in Australia to have a 86mm cylinder bore head gasket with 51thou thickness.

I bought a cometic mls head gasket from Fabre Australia in Lakemba. I paid $300 for it but they were the only supplier in Australia to have a 86mm cylinder bore head gasket with 51thou thickness.

I just bought the same one from Spool Imports for $250 including shipping :)

  • Like 1

use the stocker. its fine for power even higher than that.

I used a rb26 oem one the first time, now im using a cometic metal multi layer. I have to say I liked the stocker better the difference in quench was noticable. it really depends on how much boost you plan to run and power figure.. for your goal.. it wont matter unless, as others have said, you want to save some $$$ if you need to pull the head off

Can you please explain what you mean by the "difference in the quench was noticeable"?

Providing you're using the same thickness gaskets, quench measurements should not be changed. You must be good if you can feel a quench difference!

use the stocker. its fine for power even higher than that.

I used a rb26 oem one the first time, now im using a cometic metal multi layer. I have to say I liked the stocker better the difference in quench was noticable. it really depends on how much boost you plan to run and power figure.. for your goal.. it wont matter unless, as others have said, you want to save some $$$ if you need to pull the head off

I am hoping for around 450 - 500rwhp. I sent an email to spool imports regarding the shipping price for a cometic gasket. Prices on Ebay seem a little expensive and plus I dont know if they are genuine or not.

I am making that sort of power on a stock head gasket

Edited by France

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Harness is for a s1 Rb25det, and it is engine and lower harness.  the old harness had broken off plugs and was in very rough condition/exposed wires and splices etc. it is not able to be put back on the car, I could visually inspect to see if they had rewired any pins on the ecu plug. The fuel pump definitly isn’t turning off it’s an external pump and very loud you can hear it. Will look at the other harness tonight, am also going to pull the fuel rail and watch the injectors spray, will update here with what I find. Pretty sure at this point it has to be something to do with injectors because car will fire up on starting fluid and cas is clicking the Injectors. Fuel pressure is steady 43psi 
    • Check the injectors flow evenly, and are actually flowing what you and the ECU think they should be flowing. If it's starting up on starter fluid, you have a fuel issue. Is it possible under cranking your fuel pump is turning off?   The harness you replaced, is that the whole engine harness? Do yourself a test, and drop the old harness on and plug it into the Z32 ECU. It's possible they've wired things different. From memory S1 to S2 is different in RB25 and you may have a wrong loom
    • I haven’t pulled the injectors to watch them spray yet but they are clicking from the cas and all of the spark plugs are wet with fuel. I’ve thought the cylinders were being flooded from the beginning and was hoping fuel pressure would fix it. Tonight I am going to pull the rail and watch the injectors spray. Don’t know how to test/diagnose if the plugs are firing in correct sequence but that should be a timing thing and as far as timing goes my car still has the half moon for the cas can only install it 1 way. And my mechanical timing is 100% correct I posted photos above. Confirmed with the balancer on and off. 
    • I checked spark on all cylinders and they all visually have spark with the plug pulled and grounded, but plug 1 is the only one that fouled. This was a running swap that blew up and was rebuilt by a machine shop, put a new wiring specialties harness and did all gaskets, studs, and bolts while it was out.  compression is 135-150 across all cylinders. Aside from that from my understanding with the z32 ecu and maf the car should start regardless. The wiring for TPS and the dual 02 sensor/ dual knock sensor stuff shouldn’t actually stop the car from starting or even running well, (just slightly rich)  they just give fault codes. Car supposedly is supposed to start as long as you have z32 afm and ecu with the nistune base map and that’s info coming from a well known and trusted tuner who does a lot with SR/RB (Rsenthalpy). After more trouble shooting today where I’m at right now is that the cas is sending signal to the injectors they click while spinning the rotor, Fuel pressure is now set at 43psi, all cylinders have good compression and all of the plugs looked great (just wet with fuel) except for cylinder 1 which was very black (cylinder 1 has 150psi compression). all of the coils generate spark if pulled out and grounded out on the head. On the fuel pump car just pops into the exhaust. On starting fluid car will fire off. Hard to tell if all cylinders are firing off but definitley a couple. sounds like all of them but it’s only for 3-5 seconds hard to tell. 
×
×
  • Create New...