Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys and girls, anyone have any ideas what could be causing my stagea to run rough? Sounds like it's running on 5 but tacho says it idles steady, it still makes boost but slowly, feels like it goes good once the boost kicks in. Just changed the plugs and coilpacks and all the plugs look the same, no fouling etc. Wondering if it could be fuel filter or boost leak or afms, or fpr? Just had fuel pump done too. Also has a bit of backfire on gear changes

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/432543-help-rb26-sounds-like-a-wrx/
Share on other sites

Just because the tacho is stable doesn't rule out a cylinder missing. With car running disconnect one coil pack at a time, in no time you will know which pack/plug/part of loom is dodgy

  • 1 month later...

Ok guys, replaced the plugs, replaced the packs with splitfires and just put in a new coilpack loom, still sounds like it's missing and smells rich plus is very laggy and won't make full boost, could it be an injector?

Just because the tacho is stable doesn't rule out a cylinder missing. With car running disconnect one coil pack at a time, in no time you will know which pack/plug/part of loom is dodgy

Did you do this? Or just replaced stuff for fun? Narrowing it down to a cylinder would have helped you determine if it was a coil pretty easily.

I replaced things that seem to cause common problems so I don't have to worry about it again for a while. It used to come and go so I had ruled out mechanical problems as I would think damaged piston or cylinder would be more permanent.

If it is intermittent there is a good chance one or both of the AFM's needs re-soldering, there is a 'how to' around on fixing them if you do a search.

It could be an injector too, would be a good idea to get them cleaned and flow tested just to rule them out.

I was just pointing out that trying to diagnose such problems over the net is near futile. It always turns out to be something either very obvious or nothing that anyone thought of.

So tempted to put that in my signature.
  • Like 1

When I bought it they did a compression test and has only done about 5000k since then so no I haven't plus cause it was come and go I didn't think it could be that. Happened around when the alarm went in, imobiliser issue maybe?

Wouldn't surprise me if its an afm.

Another quick thing to do would be check over all of the I/C piping and joiners for a leak and vacuum lines too

Edited by Even_Flow

Pull injector plugs one by one until one doesn't make it any worse than it is already. Once you find the cylinder that is missing check the plugs/coils/loom for that cylinder.

Could even use a screwdriver to the ear to find which one is missing.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
×
×
  • Create New...