Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys and girls, anyone have any ideas what could be causing my stagea to run rough? Sounds like it's running on 5 but tacho says it idles steady, it still makes boost but slowly, feels like it goes good once the boost kicks in. Just changed the plugs and coilpacks and all the plugs look the same, no fouling etc. Wondering if it could be fuel filter or boost leak or afms, or fpr? Just had fuel pump done too. Also has a bit of backfire on gear changes

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/432543-help-rb26-sounds-like-a-wrx/
Share on other sites

Just because the tacho is stable doesn't rule out a cylinder missing. With car running disconnect one coil pack at a time, in no time you will know which pack/plug/part of loom is dodgy

  • 1 month later...

Ok guys, replaced the plugs, replaced the packs with splitfires and just put in a new coilpack loom, still sounds like it's missing and smells rich plus is very laggy and won't make full boost, could it be an injector?

Just because the tacho is stable doesn't rule out a cylinder missing. With car running disconnect one coil pack at a time, in no time you will know which pack/plug/part of loom is dodgy

Did you do this? Or just replaced stuff for fun? Narrowing it down to a cylinder would have helped you determine if it was a coil pretty easily.

I replaced things that seem to cause common problems so I don't have to worry about it again for a while. It used to come and go so I had ruled out mechanical problems as I would think damaged piston or cylinder would be more permanent.

If it is intermittent there is a good chance one or both of the AFM's needs re-soldering, there is a 'how to' around on fixing them if you do a search.

It could be an injector too, would be a good idea to get them cleaned and flow tested just to rule them out.

I was just pointing out that trying to diagnose such problems over the net is near futile. It always turns out to be something either very obvious or nothing that anyone thought of.

So tempted to put that in my signature.
  • Like 1

When I bought it they did a compression test and has only done about 5000k since then so no I haven't plus cause it was come and go I didn't think it could be that. Happened around when the alarm went in, imobiliser issue maybe?

Wouldn't surprise me if its an afm.

Another quick thing to do would be check over all of the I/C piping and joiners for a leak and vacuum lines too

Edited by Even_Flow

Pull injector plugs one by one until one doesn't make it any worse than it is already. Once you find the cylinder that is missing check the plugs/coils/loom for that cylinder.

Could even use a screwdriver to the ear to find which one is missing.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...