Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Drop saws such as Brodo's (cold style) have an advantage in that they remain true to the cut that you are making as the cutting disk is much stiffer, were as if the bandsaw blade losses tension it can wander and no longer make a true cut. The slow cutting of the Brodos can lead to them fouling the cutting teeth if use with aluminium based alloys, not such an issue with the bandsaws. Drop saws designed for aluminium use use a different tooth pattern and a higher cutting speed than those for ferrous materials.

Your options are either cut off drop saw which will do the job but annoying that you have to clean each cut up alot whereas bandsaw does a pretty clean cut and not much if any clean up is needed. I personally have been using drop saw but will be changing to a bandsaw when I get the money.

$100 cut off droppy is all the average guy needs for backyard fab, you can do alot with them and awesome value. they are only a minor pain when cleaning up 50 lobster back cuts, but you can get pretty quick at it with time. Ill spend up big on a bandsaw when i run out of other cool tools to buy..

I use all three, definitely the Brobo if you can find a cheap S/H one. I also use the $1200 H&F bandsaw for larger sized pipes, great for 4 inch or larger.

I use the friction saw very rarely. It doesn't cut straight and the clean up time is horrendous. If you plan to use one, you will need to invest in a linisher to clean/flatten the cut.

Is this all because alloy has to fit perfect to weld or you get holes n stuff?

I know with steel you wouldnt need a linisher to get it that perfect for welding.

I just got a cheap mig welder and havent tried alloy yet, so im curious.

Is this all because alloy has to fit perfect to weld or you get holes n stuff?

I know with steel you wouldnt need a linisher to get it that perfect for welding.

I just got a cheap mig welder and havent tried alloy yet, so im curious.

If your fusing with stainless as most ppl do for cooler piping yes you need a perfect fit to have a nice weld.

tbh.. my cut off saw cuts very straight, 3mm blade (maybe just lucky), only clean up i do is a quick linish and its ready for a perfect fuse with the tig. i posted a few pics in the lobster thread, all that is with the cheap saw.

Yeah I also agree aswell my cheap shitty drop saw cuts pretty straight just have to linish with a grinder and die grinder and they fit spot on.

never had one catch pipe, i dont usually do much alloy pipe work though. I always thought it was a bad idea to cut alloy pipe with a drop saw, the alloy clogs the disc. Dont know how much truth to it and i havent really done much research of my own but was told this can cause the disc to explode in extreme cases.

opps read you use an alloy cutting disc, never mind if you have one of those :)

Edited by r32gtrs

Don't know what horizontal you had in mind, the ones I've used only had variable feed set up for steel and would be horrid for bends, a variable vertical would be my preference if you only had one choice (along with a selection of tooth count blades). Typical stainless tube cutting, I use a friction drop saw as first preference. A disc linisher is very useful for squaring, don't know how good the hobby grade H&F ones are? If all else fails, hacksaw and snips have saved the bacon many times and a realistic option if you're only doing a few!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Have a vb in honour of the car comming back
    • It was a great, but typical track day, and some VB was ingested at the night time debrief 🤪
    • And so, to round this out, I couldn't be happier to confirm @MBS206 has decided to buy the car. He drove down from sunny QLD with a trailer last week and it is off to its new home today. I'll let Matt confirm on next steps but I understand broadly that the plan is to leave it pretty much as is, and just get some quality wheel time with a nicely balanced car that is pretty much track ready. There are a few a jobs still to be done first but nothing too major and I think its a very smart buy Dinner last night at the Paragon with a round of VBs (mostly) for Neil
    • Well, 50 pages and the end of a chapter for this car. We took it out for a shakedown at Wakie yesterday, and everything went well. There were a couple of niggles: - Oil cooler fitting leak - tightened, cleaned, stopped leaking - Radiator cap overflow fitting was leaking....Mark called it, the overflow fitting was threaded in and not tight....tightened, tested and held pressure - Small oil leak at the rear of the block, probably the turbo oil feed - too hot to get at it comfortably but probably just needs to be nipped up - leak at the driver's side rear brake line where it meets the hardline. Fitting wasn't loose, so Matt backed it off and back on, no further leaks - there's also a leak somewhere on the top of the fuel tank, maybe that cross over fuel line - that was has been left to fix when its on a hoist Otherwise than those niggles the car went great, turned great and stopped great so it was a very successful day out. I'm always really nervous when a car first hits the track after a long break, especially with a brand new engine as well but it was great. VID-20251011-WA0007.mp4  Big thanks to @The Bogan who dropped by and helped out, @MBS206 and my nephew Lachlan the apprentice.  Neil's wife Mel also surprised the hell out of all of us by dropping by; she's up in Tamworth these days but was travelling to Melbourne so had plausible deniability for turning up at the garage, it was great to see her but also obviously a bit sad all round.
    • Skyline R33 Series 2 sedan tail lights in excellent condition. These are becoming harder to find, especially in this state.    BOTH SETS ARE IN FANTASTIC CONDITION (REFER TO PHOTOS)    ✅ No broken covers or cracks ✅ Lenses are in flawless condition ✅ All rear mounting lugs intact ✅ Comes complete as pictured ✅ Perfect for restoration, replacement, or upgrade   These lights are ready to go, no surprises just quality OEM parts.   These are definitely one of the better sets we have seen in a while. With minimal wear and tear they will come as you see. Bear in mind they are not brand new they are almost 30 years old now. To find them in this condition isn’t easy they can only be obtained on the second hand market.   Australia Wide Postage Available At Buyers Expense. Silver Set:$850 Grey Set:$850 PM Me for purchase or any other questions  IMG_2166.dng IMG_2165.dng IMG_2172.dng IMG_2173.dng IMG_2174.dng IMG_2179.dng IMG_2180.dng IMG_2260.dng IMG_2258.dng IMG_2259.dng IMG_2261.dng IMG_2266.dng IMG_2273.dng IMG_2274.dng IMG_2276.dng
×
×
  • Create New...