Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So the problem is still happening mechanic thought it might be the fuel pump module but took it out of the equation by earthing the fuel pump and it still happens it gets a really shit idle then might stall at idle, might loose power at 80 km and foot goes to the floor pull over and stall, it's all just random really need to find the fault, my mechanic had it out on the road driving on the dyno and it wouldn't play up has anyone else had a similar problem just lose power for 5 seconds then comes good

gonna give the car a good look over this long weekend, and has to go back to mechanic for front end/steering shit so ill get them to give it a check over too.

im having another problem at the moment hicas light comes on mostly under heavy accaleration or left turns checked power steering fluid looks to be a bit low cant find what the recomended fluid is though, did a search and got all different answers dx 2 dx 3 dx vi nissan special fluid just wondering what is the go ?

thanks guys for the help :)

the one in the boot is for the attesa, i was thinking that something is better than nothing but some oils and hoses and shit are ment to only have 1 sort. ie synthetic or mineral and shit. cars giving me enough friggen problems i dont want to upset her anymore lol

I'd use Valvoline Synthetic ATF. Its Nissanmatic D, J and K compliant and ~$10.00/L.

Not true about mineral and synthetic - you can use either, but synthetic will last longer, and for power steering the higher boiling point can be useful at the track.

I like to change all the fluids when i get a new (to me, second hand) car, but it depends on time/money/priorities. So maybe for you it would be better to focus on fixing broken stuff and just top up now. Its just Valvoline so get it from any spare parts place. Another option is the Nulon synthetic but its a fair bit more expensive.

  • 1 year later...

The rebirth of my thread haha.

So we've come along way. More mods more heartache moooore money but hey that's motoring. So I've been dwelling on a couple of ideas but need some answers and who better to ask than the people who have done it before me.

At high rpm 3rd to 4th crunches like a bitch I did some reading to find that possibly r32 gtr gearsets and patrols are the same so I wonder where could a "rebuild" kit be sourced from bearings synchros seals etc.

And I think I like the sound of a -5 turbo setup, a bit laggy but Moore powah. But do they go by another name so as I can look them up for price etc?

Thanks guys

Lol don't listen to the self proclaimed king of lag either! Go with 9's forget about 7's and 5's! :D

Everyone knows how much fun it is losing to a stock WRX at the lights unless you're spinning your car to redline in the 1st 3 gears!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...