Jump to content
SAU Community

Skyline Built Not Starting

perzn_34

By perzn_34,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

perzn_34 Experienced

perzn_34

Posted
Posted

Hey guys so i haven't had this car for long. Its a 1994 s1 r33 gtst with a built motor td06 turbo etc etc.

i did a compression test last week numbers came out good, and then i did a wet compression test with adding oil in each cylinder individually. I put about half a oil bottle cap worth for each cylinder.

After that put everything back together, then started the car and alot of white smoke came out which im guessing is normal from the oil in the cylinders. I took it for a spin around the block and white smoke was still coming out but less and kept getting less. i then took it in the garage and turned it off. didnt touch it for a week.

So after a week i came to start the car and it wouldnt start, it cranks but wont turn on. Fuel lines have pressure but just wont run.

i thought maybe my spark plgs are stuffed from the oil so put new ones and still the same

I have split fires, i pulled one out put a screw driver in it and put it near the head and no sparks, so i know there is no power going to my coils. Note this is a s1 r33 with the ignitor on top of the motor at the back.

So what i dont understand is the car was turned off and not touched for a week and this happens, obviously nothing has been touched..

SO i know its a power issue, anyone can help or give advice??? PLSS

btw ecu is a haltech pro plug and play

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/433039-skyline-built-not-starting/
Share on other sites
Cyifly Community Regular

Cyifly

Posted
Posted

Hey guys so i haven't had this car for long. Its a 1994 s1 r33 gtst with a built motor td06 turbo etc etc.

i did a compression test last week numbers came out good, and then i did a wet compression test with adding oil in each cylinder individually. I put about half a oil bottle cap worth for each cylinder.

After that put everything back together, then started the car and alot of white smoke came out which im guessing is normal from the oil in the cylinders. I took it for a spin around the block and white smoke was still coming out but less and kept getting less. i then took it in the garage and turned it off. didnt touch it for a week.

So after a week i came to start the car and it wouldnt start, it cranks but wont turn on. Fuel lines have pressure but just wont run.

i thought maybe my spark plgs are stuffed from the oil so put new ones and still the same

I have split fires, i pulled one out put a screw driver in it and put it near the head and no sparks, so i know there is no power going to my coils. Note this is a s1 r33 with the ignitor on top of the motor at the back.

So what i dont understand is the car was turned off and not touched for a week and this happens, obviously nothing has been touched..

SO i know its a power issue, anyone can help or give advice??? PLSS

btw ecu is a haltech pro plug and play

Have run into this issue in the past with s1 rb lol exact same issues.

If you can get your hand in a stock ecu plug it in see if it will fire.

That's what it ended up being for me the ecu buggered out on me.

Checked fuses ?

perzn_34 Experienced

perzn_34

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Have run into this issue in the past with s1 rb lol exact same issues.

If you can get your hand in a stock ecu plug it in see if it will fire.

That's what it ended up being for me the ecu buggered out on me.

Checked fuses ?

I couldnt find any relevant fuses. The ones in the boot are just for lights etc the engine bay fuse box any particular one i need to check?

ill hookup the stock ecu tonight hopefully not that as I like my haltech :(

Cyifly Community Regular

Cyifly

Posted
Posted

I couldnt find any relevant fuses. The ones in the boot are just for lights etc the engine bay fuse box any particular one i need to check?

ill hookup the stock ecu tonight hopefully not that as I like my haltech :(

I'd check the fuses in the engine bag again..

In particular anything related to engine cont... Or fuel pump related .

Can you smell fuel as in is it definitely getting fuel when cranking ?

perzn_34 Experienced

perzn_34

Posted
  • Author
Posted

My battery is fine.. but I know I dont have spark.. I can hear the fuel pump and the fuel hoses have fuel in them but not sure if injectors are actually injecting or not. Anyway to find out? Cant really smell fuel

GTScotT Grand Master

GTScotT

Posted
Posted

As said did you forget to reconnect the earths?

Are you sure you have enough battery voltage?

It is very common for aftermarket ECU's not to pulse ignition drivers when they have low voltage. Sounds simple regardless of what it ends up being.

hypergear Grand Master

hypergear

Posted
Posted

There is a ignition coil distributor in the S1 skylines. Check the wiring on that and make sure this part is working. I had same problem few years ago and that turned out to be the issue.

RandomHero83 Veteran

RandomHero83

Posted
Posted

There is a ignition coil distributor in the S1 skylines. Check the wiring on that and make sure this part is working. I had same problem few years ago and that turned out to be the issue.

+1 coil pack ignitor on S1's fail easily.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Iron Mike
      R34 GTR parts garage clean out

      By Iron Mike · Posted

      Big R34 GTR parts cleanout. I have a lot of stuff collected over the last 14 years and my missus is giving me hard time. Make my life easy.   Nismo GT carbon fibre diffuser fins (discontinued)  NEW  $2900 Garage Defend Stingray canards carbon fibre  NEW  $1300  Top Secret G Force carbon fibre front diffuser  NEW  $2000  Haltech Elite 2500  NEW  $2500  Haltech Platinum Pro R34 GTR   USED  $1400  Apex’I power FC D'jetro + hand controller R34 GTR   USED  $1400  Nissan OEM BNR34 ECU  USED   $1000  HKS EVC 6  USED  $600  Blitz dual SBC ID boost controller.  USED  $350  TRE 255 LPH Fuel pump  NEW  $100  Fujitsubo  Super Ti exhaust  USED  $2700  Tomei Expreme Ti exhaust  USED  $2000  Trust stainless steel front pipe  USED  $1000  Apex’I super suction kit  USED $400  BC BR coilovers  USED  $600  Hardrace front upper camber kit. USED  $300  Garret 2860-5 turbos –  one good, one needs reco USED  $1000  Nissan OEM Toshiba MFD Screen replacement  NEW  $450  Nissan OEM BNR34 Series II front passenger seat  USED (mint) $5000   Nissan OEM BNR34 front bar in TV2  USED  $1000  Nissan OEM BNR34 front lower air spoiler  USED  $900  Nissan OEM BNR34 front lower air spoiler (painted)  USED  $900  Nismo front indicator (clear) USED  $80 Nissan OEM BNR34 radiator  USED $500  Nissan OEM BNR34 turbos  USED  $500  Nissan OEM BNR34 intercooler USED  $800  Nissan OEM BNR34 front swaybar   USED  $500  Nissan OEM BNR34 intake pipes   USED  $400    Also have a square set of uber rare Volk CE28n in 19*10 +22. Not really keen to sell these but make a high enough offer and maybe I will. If you don't know how much these usually sell for don't bother.   PM for pics.  Pickup Chadstone VIC or postage at buyer's expense.
    • waxracing
      Power steering pump r32

      By waxracing · Posted

      Thanks Mate, I did know you could do that but i know there is a pump out there that you can bolt on and it all lines up. I was told about it and then forgot the model, I figure if i am pulling it apart i will just put a new one on 
    • TurboTapin
      Power steering pump r32

      By TurboTapin · Posted

      You can also remove the veins from the HICAS portion of your existing pump. 
    • DatsunBanana
      Rear subframe stay bracket bolt removal issues

      By DatsunBanana · Posted

      Trying to swap the rear subframe on my R34 and can't remove the L-shaped stay brackets between the front subframe mounts and the sill/chassis. I'm in the UK so rust is a problem. I've used loads of WD40 and then Tunap 103 for days beforehand. I backed off the bolts forward a bit, backward a bit repeatedly for ages to try and avoid snapping. They have all moved a few full turns. The one I've spent most time on has come loose and I can turn with fingers, and it will pull down and push up 2-3mm. But it won't come out. I can tighten it back up and loosen it off again repeatedly but it still won't come out. I assumed there's a captive nut inside but if that's broken loose then I can't understand why I can always tighten the bolt back up - I'd expect it to just spin both ways. Any ideas what's happening here? I can't visualise what's inside there to cause this.
    • MR51MN
      Who has a Infiniti Q60, Q50 (V37)?

      By MR51MN · Posted

      Cheers, yeah it was recently imported, is the actual Nissan not an Infiniti so will have to do some chasing around for parts.    Any ideas if the side skirts from a Q50 would fit on the 400r?
×
×
  • Create New...