Jump to content
SAU Community

Skyline Built Not Starting

perzn_34

By perzn_34,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

perzn_34 Experienced

perzn_34

Posted
Posted

Hey guys so i haven't had this car for long. Its a 1994 s1 r33 gtst with a built motor td06 turbo etc etc.

i did a compression test last week numbers came out good, and then i did a wet compression test with adding oil in each cylinder individually. I put about half a oil bottle cap worth for each cylinder.

After that put everything back together, then started the car and alot of white smoke came out which im guessing is normal from the oil in the cylinders. I took it for a spin around the block and white smoke was still coming out but less and kept getting less. i then took it in the garage and turned it off. didnt touch it for a week.

So after a week i came to start the car and it wouldnt start, it cranks but wont turn on. Fuel lines have pressure but just wont run.

i thought maybe my spark plgs are stuffed from the oil so put new ones and still the same

I have split fires, i pulled one out put a screw driver in it and put it near the head and no sparks, so i know there is no power going to my coils. Note this is a s1 r33 with the ignitor on top of the motor at the back.

So what i dont understand is the car was turned off and not touched for a week and this happens, obviously nothing has been touched..

SO i know its a power issue, anyone can help or give advice??? PLSS

btw ecu is a haltech pro plug and play

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/433039-skyline-built-not-starting/
Share on other sites
Cyifly Community Regular

Cyifly

Posted
Posted

Hey guys so i haven't had this car for long. Its a 1994 s1 r33 gtst with a built motor td06 turbo etc etc.

i did a compression test last week numbers came out good, and then i did a wet compression test with adding oil in each cylinder individually. I put about half a oil bottle cap worth for each cylinder.

After that put everything back together, then started the car and alot of white smoke came out which im guessing is normal from the oil in the cylinders. I took it for a spin around the block and white smoke was still coming out but less and kept getting less. i then took it in the garage and turned it off. didnt touch it for a week.

So after a week i came to start the car and it wouldnt start, it cranks but wont turn on. Fuel lines have pressure but just wont run.

i thought maybe my spark plgs are stuffed from the oil so put new ones and still the same

I have split fires, i pulled one out put a screw driver in it and put it near the head and no sparks, so i know there is no power going to my coils. Note this is a s1 r33 with the ignitor on top of the motor at the back.

So what i dont understand is the car was turned off and not touched for a week and this happens, obviously nothing has been touched..

SO i know its a power issue, anyone can help or give advice??? PLSS

btw ecu is a haltech pro plug and play

Have run into this issue in the past with s1 rb lol exact same issues.

If you can get your hand in a stock ecu plug it in see if it will fire.

That's what it ended up being for me the ecu buggered out on me.

Checked fuses ?

perzn_34 Experienced

perzn_34

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Have run into this issue in the past with s1 rb lol exact same issues.

If you can get your hand in a stock ecu plug it in see if it will fire.

That's what it ended up being for me the ecu buggered out on me.

Checked fuses ?

I couldnt find any relevant fuses. The ones in the boot are just for lights etc the engine bay fuse box any particular one i need to check?

ill hookup the stock ecu tonight hopefully not that as I like my haltech :(

Cyifly Community Regular

Cyifly

Posted
Posted

I couldnt find any relevant fuses. The ones in the boot are just for lights etc the engine bay fuse box any particular one i need to check?

ill hookup the stock ecu tonight hopefully not that as I like my haltech :(

I'd check the fuses in the engine bag again..

In particular anything related to engine cont... Or fuel pump related .

Can you smell fuel as in is it definitely getting fuel when cranking ?

perzn_34 Experienced

perzn_34

Posted
  • Author
Posted

My battery is fine.. but I know I dont have spark.. I can hear the fuel pump and the fuel hoses have fuel in them but not sure if injectors are actually injecting or not. Anyway to find out? Cant really smell fuel

GTScotT Grand Master

GTScotT

Posted
Posted

As said did you forget to reconnect the earths?

Are you sure you have enough battery voltage?

It is very common for aftermarket ECU's not to pulse ignition drivers when they have low voltage. Sounds simple regardless of what it ends up being.

hypergear Grand Master

hypergear

Posted
Posted

There is a ignition coil distributor in the S1 skylines. Check the wiring on that and make sure this part is working. I had same problem few years ago and that turned out to be the issue.

RandomHero83 Veteran

RandomHero83

Posted
Posted

There is a ignition coil distributor in the S1 skylines. Check the wiring on that and make sure this part is working. I had same problem few years ago and that turned out to be the issue.

+1 coil pack ignitor on S1's fail easily.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By MBS206 · Posted

      The oil pressure sensor for logging, does it happen to be the one that was slowly breaking out of the oil block? If it is,I would be ignoring your logs. You had a leak at the sensor which would mean it can't read accurately. It's a small hole at the sensor, and you had a small hole just before it, meaning you could have lost significant pressure reading.   As for brakes, if it's just fluid getting old, you won't necessarily end up with air sitting in the line. Bleed a shit tonne of fluid through so you effectively replace it and go again. Oh and, pay close attention to the pressure gauge while on track!
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I don't know it is due to that. It could just be due to load on track being more than a dyno. But it would be nice to rule it out. We're talking a fraction of a second of pulling ~1 degree of timing. So it's not a lot, but I'd rather it be 0... Thicker oil isn't really a "bandaid" if it's oil that is going to run at 125C, is it? It will be thicker at 100 and thus at 125, where the 40 weight may not be as thick as one may like for that use. I already have a big pump that has been ported. They (They in this instance being the guy that built my heads) port them so they flow more at lower RPM but have a bypass spring that I believe is ~70psi. I have seen 70psi of oil pressure up top in the past, before I knew I had this leak. I have a 25 row oil cooler that takes up all the space in the driver side guard. It is interesting that GM themselves recommend 0-30 oil for their Vette applications. Unless you take it to the track where the official word is to put 20-50w oil in there, then take that back out after your track day is done and return to 0-30.
    • PranK
      My new to me M35 Stagea wagon

      By PranK · Posted

      Nice, looks great. Nice work getting the factory parts also. Never know when you'll need them.
    • Chupapy
      New r33 owner

      By Chupapy · Posted

      Thanks @jtha7 I will have a look around tomorrow but it is a prick of a spot. These are some photos i tried taking 
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I take it that the knock retard is from bearings tapping a little tune? Thicker oil is a fragile bandaid. You need a much bigger oil cooler and probably the bigger pump being discussed.
×
×
  • Create New...