Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

This is something I just cannot get my head around.

Before my current skyline, I had a GQ Patrol.

It had a 4.2 liter turbo diesel, straight through 3" exhaust. It whistled like crazy from the exhaust and sounded really awesome.

Why is it that only turbo diesels seem to emitt a turbine whistling sound where as petrol motors do not? (Our whistles are usually intake sound or the sound of a surge ported compressor cover eg gt3076r or t51r)

Is it to do with the fact that diesel motors use considerably smaller turbochargers than their petrol equivalents of the same engine capacity?

My patrol had a gt2860rs on the TD42, I would bet if you put the same turbo on the TB42 (the 4.2 petrol equivalent) with a straight through 3" exhaust there would be no whistle.

Someone school me on this as its driving me nuts. The internet isnt much help, mostly I get results linking me to redneck american diesel forums and they are painful to read.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/433230-why-do-turbo-diesels-whistle/
Share on other sites

3" straight pipe.

Older video of 2.5" press bent + muffler

Heres my old patrol for anyone who isnt too sure what im on about but ide say you all are anyway.

TD42 & GT2860RS...

You dont here any skylines with disco potatos whistling like that, muffler or no muffler!

Edited by Bennis

No idea but my D40 Nav doesn't do it. Has epic of amounts of intake noise/flutter but no whistle probably due to cat and DPF. I also see a lot of Toyota diesels that make like a BOV sound when changing gears....that has me stumped also haha.

Diesels can produce a "dose" out the exhaust as opposed to the intake where petrols do.

In the first video I linked of my old patrol you can feintly here it but its not as loud as some.

Its due to the design of the dump pipe. A tight angled restrictive dump pipe on a turbo diesel will create a dose sound. Dont ask me why, but only a diesel will do it.

Example

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VYT9ezp3lMk (this is a good example of the dosing sound, as well as the spooling whistle that I originally asked for an explanation on)

Most commonly associated with the turbo kit that Denco Diesel makes for the patrol. The dump pipe is a dead 90degree bend. Changing it eliminates the sound, hence how the cause of the noise was deduced.

Alot of larger trucks make the sound too, like the standard Cummins N14 motors. (starts about 45 secs. Pure turbo diesel porn lol)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4q0dr3Fzc2A

Its not the sound I am referring too however, I am basically asking why the whistle is audible via the exhaust. By whistle I mean spooling up.

Edited by Bennis

The diesel turbo's mentioned are at maximum torque at 2000rpm or less and have either open pipes or large exhausts, im guessing that combo must spin the smaller turbines up really fast in comparison to our petrol engines.

Less RPM, Less engine noise, no CAT Converter. I dunno but I'd say these are the main contributors.

Diesels make power and spool turbos at much lower RPM's than Petrols (obviously not a rediculous big turbo on a small diesel, you get the idea)

I think this has to do with it. But not 100% sure its the reason

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
    • There is a really fun solution to this problem, buy a Haltech (or ECU of your choice) and put the MAF in the bin.  I'm assuming your going to want more power in future, so you'll need to get the ECU at some stage. I'd put the new MAF money towards the new ECU. 
×
×
  • Create New...