Anyone Using Water Wetter?

[nk7]

Hey folks

Anyone still or started to use Water wetter and plain old distilled water instead of Glycol/antifreeze for cooling requirements? I live in the tropics so will most definitely not require antifreeze component in coolant and apparently water wetter still has anti-corrosive properties as well as lubing the water pump internals etc...

Is Redline the only ones who make Water Wetter in Oz? Not many seem to have heard of water wetters or deal with them for that matter....perhaps for good reasons??

I was planning on flushing out my system on the R32 GTST and my incoming bike as well - figured I would see if going water wetter would be a good idea. Seems to be the real deal but we'll see..

[boostn0199]

Its great stuff its all i use on all cars from my track drift car to all dailys no problems with it and slightly better cooling.

[scotty nm35]

Motul do one too, I have been using it for a while now with very little coolant added to tank water. It works well enough but I am still having overheating issues at the track.

I have been researching waterless coolants, there are some very interesting no boil properties in those fluids, with over 200c boiling points. That should stop the flash boiling I get around the bore and combustion chamber on prolonged high boost. (140+ water temp at the outlet of the head, more at the bore) You need to flush all the water from your system first with a cleaner, then pour the reusable fluid in. They are worth a look if you want peace of mind.

[nk7]

Its great stuff its all i use on all cars from my track drift car to all dailys no problems with it and slightly better cooling.

Good to hear. I've read that in some cases it will not translate as lower temps coz it only targets heat spots or at least that's what adding surfactants to water helps do. Here is the other thread where I got the info from: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/386040-how-much-redline-water-wetter-do-you-use/

[nk7]

Motul do one too, I have been using it for a while now with very little coolant added to tank water. It works well enough but I am still having overheating issues at the track.

I have been researching waterless coolants, there are some very interesting no boil properties in those fluids, with over 200c boiling points. That should stop the flash boiling I get around the bore and combustion chamber on prolonged high boost. (140+ water temp at the outlet of the head, more at the bore) You need to flush all the water from your system first with a cleaner, then pour the reusable fluid in. They are worth a look if you want peace of mind.

What boosts are you running to boil water like that? On the Stagea? I've heard around 120 should be fine but 140+ is getting a bit hot. You said 'still' having overheating issues - so you still had the same issue with glycol?

[scotty nm35]

30 psi, 40 on auto gear shift due to the soft cut limiter. I can't believe the engine is still together pushing this 2 ton whale around the track.

One of the drawbacks of alloy blocks with floating bores, the heat is conducted very well into the coolant, and there is no thermal mass of cast iron to sink the heat into. I am measuring the water temp at the outlet of the head, most would want to know if the radiator is keeping up so place the sensor in the inlet for the engine, but the factory VQ sender is on the outlet. At least I know the maximum temp the coolant is getting to, and that the engine can handle it. (just the coolant can't.)

If you are losing the heater, you most probably have an airlock from steam or combustion. I have redesigned my cooling system to get around that issue and allow the coolant/steam to flow better. I should have just ordered that waterless racing coolant lookin back.

[nk7]

30 psi, 40 on auto gear shift due to the soft cut limiter. I can't believe the engine is still together pushing this 2 ton whale around the track.

One of the drawbacks of alloy blocks with floating bores, the heat is conducted very well into the coolant, and there is no thermal mass of cast iron to sink the heat into. I am measuring the water temp at the outlet of the head, most would want to know if the radiator is keeping up so place the sensor in the inlet for the engine, but the factory VQ sender is on the outlet. At least I know the maximum temp the coolant is getting to, and that the engine can handle it. (just the coolant can't.)

If you are losing the heater, you most probably have an airlock from steam or combustion. I have redesigned my cooling system to get around that issue and allow the coolant/steam to flow better. I should have just ordered that waterless racing coolant lookin back.

Who are you looking at to source the waterless?

[scotty nm35]

No-one in particular yet, this mob seem to have it worked out though.

http://www.evanscoolants.com.au/

[nk7]

I noticed them on ebay along with another mob: http://stores.ebay.com.au/liquid-Intelligence-Smart-Solutions

[scotty nm35]

http://liquidintelligence115.com.au/

[nk7]

So long as it works because it looks pretty exy. E.g. 5L distilled = $5.99, water wetter ~$20.00. 5L of waterless = 143+freight according to liquidintelligence. Is there still corrosive inhibitors, and lubricant for water pump etc? I will have to start reading into this...

[scotty nm35]

Well worth reading about the benefits, remember it is re-usable and doesn't need to be replaced every year or two afaik.

The system won't pressurise either, as there is very little expansion, so hoses will last longer. The lack of cavitation in the water pump would be very useful at 8000 revs too. I agree it is expensive though.