Jump to content
SAU Community

I Wonder How Hard The Police Push These New Laws ?


Recommended Posts

So I wonder how the police will interpret these new anti-hoon laws and how hard they will push them?

From the example set by the anti-bikie laws I think people should expect them to be pushed very hard over the next few weeks. Personally I'm going to try and avoid driving the Skyline for a few weeks.

Any thought?

Anyone come into contact with them already, or over the weekend?

I'm also curious as to how apps like Strava (http://www.strava.com/) will be affected seeing as they activel encourage competition between users and it times your ride on open roads to be placed on a leader board. Sounds like a Time Trial to me.

  • Like 1

Hi Guys,

Sorry to hijack the thread but this is kinda related (on account that I'm shitting myself!)

I'm relocating from SA to Springfield Lakes. Can you help me with a suggestion of where I should go for a RWC and mod plate?

Or as another possibility, should I transfer the car into a parents name and leave it SA rego for a bit until the dust settles?

Thanks in advance

Not sure if leaving it in SA rego will help. I also can't help with RWC or mod plates, sorry. From the photos your cars looks too low and I'd suspect the cops find that the easiest thing to issue a defect for.

I thought being low was the least of my worries as the car is (to the best of my knowledge) standard height.

The kit give it the appearance of being low I guess

post-59520-0-53798900-1383354712_thumb.png

Cheer anyways I'll start my own thread re: RWC

gday terry,

I just moved up from SA.

ServiceSA and SA rego is a dream compared to up here.

personally I'd leave it on SA rego for AS LONG AS you can while you gather the correct info up here

  • Like 1

Guys honestly ride height keep if legal exhausts try keep em a bit on the quiet side or simply drive normal never get hassled myself and I've got a 400kw daily driven skyline to work. And I've found the first words that come out your mouth when pulled over are the most crucial (attitude test).

Saying all this yes I know there is quite a few cops out there that try to maximise revenue on us import guys

  • Like 1

I am wondering about the definition of "time trial".

According to this http://www.police.ql...blicVersion.pdf, speed trial means:

(i) any attempt to establish or break any vehicle speed record of any description on a road; or

(ii) any trial of any description of the speed of a vehicle on a road; or

(iii) any competitive trial of any description designed to test the skill of any vehicle or driver or the reliability or mechanical condition of any vehicle on any road.

Seems like if accelerating too fast from the lights can also fall under this as (ii)... also probably test driving cars at a dealership is can fall under this whether it be testing acceleration speed or testing how much grunt the car has up a hill with your family sitting in the car.

Edited by Mayuri Krab

 

According to this http://www.police.ql...blicVersion.pdf, speed trial means:

 

 

Seems like if accelerating too fast from the lights can also fall under this as (ii)... also probably test driving cars at a dealership is can fall under this whether it be testing acceleration speed or testing how much grunt the car has up a hill with your family sitting in the car.

A public version hey. I wonder whst the left out during the rewrite. And via these new laws fast acceleration from csn be deemed speed trialing. Hence I've chsnged driving habits to 20kph per gear change.

I'm getting worried about this as well.. I get my opens very soon and knowing my luck with cars & police, I'll get pulled over coming out of the driveway..

I have raised the car so it's now about 110-120 off the ground in all areas..

Also took my atmo BOV and replaced with a Turbosmart Kompact (recirc) and plumbed it back..

My only worry is my external gate, if a cop knows his stuff, pretty sure he or she will find it..

I'm not going to push it enough to open the wastegate..

But it's kinda hard not to stand out with gold paint, orange boot, black front and back bumper AND white skirts lol :/

I'm getting a respray asap! Haha

I have seen a crapload of undercover golfs and hiluxes pulling imports over in my area, (Miami, burleigh heads)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
×
×
  • Create New...